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THE "STANDARD" 



WORK ON CUTTING 



Ladies' Tailor=Made Garments 



A COnPLETE TREATISE 

ON THE 



Art and Science of Delineating 



All Garments for Women 



/V\ade by Tailors 



REVISED EDITION 



BY S. 5. GORDON 



PUBLISHERS: 

<** JnO. J. A\lTCHELL Co., 

New York 



Ox 



U8HARY of COKiaRESsl 


Two Copies Kecf^>o. | 


FEB 21 


iy08 


F^ 7 /<?a3 

CLASS A XXe. i».j. 
COPY fl. 



Copyright, 1908, 

BY 

THE JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 



ia 



CONTENTS 

Title ----------- 1 

Preface - - - - -- - - - -6 

PART 1.— MEASURING. ETC. 

Appliances for Measuring __----. - 10 

The Measuring-Square --------- IQ 

The Measures ---------- H 

How to Measure - - - - - - - - - -11 

The Importance of Right Measures ------- 21 

The Table of Average Lengths and Widths - - - - - - 23 

The Table ---------- 25 

Seam Allowances ----------27 

The Drafting Square --------- 27 

PART II.— COATS, JACKETS, ETC. 

Foundation Draft ----------30 

Single-Breasted Box-Coat - - -- - - - - 33 

Double-Breasted Half-Box Coat - - - - - - - - 36 

Single-Breasted Coat. (Moderately Shaped.) - - - _ . 39 

The Neck Point ---'_------ 44 

Single-Breasted Jacket. (Tight-Ftting Backpart.) - _ . _ 45 

Single-Breasted Coat. (Tight-Fitting, One Dart.) ----- 50 

Tight-Fitting Coat. (Two Darts.) ------- 54 

Corpulent Forms ----------58 

The Position of the Side-seam .--_--. 60 

Double-Breasted Frock-Coat Body ------- 61 

Frock-Coat Skirt. (Full Drapery.) ------- 64 

Frock-Coat, Close Skirt --------- 66 

Blouse Jacket ---------- 68 

Coat with Two French Darts --------70 

Coat with Three French Darts - - - - - - - - _ 7Z 

Flatness and Fullness at Front of Abdomen - - - - - - 76 

Large Bust and Small Waist -------- 7'& 

Variations at Front-of-Scve -------- gl 

Eton Jacket --'-------- 82 

Single-Breasted ^^est ---------83 

Pla'in Cloak with Yoke -------- 86 

Two-Dart Circular ---------88 

Two-Piece Circular - - - - -- - - - 90 

PART III.— SLEEVES. 

Plain Two-Piece Sleeve ---------94 

Enlarged Top Sleeve --------- 98 

Dart Sleeve ---------- 100 

Leg o' Mutton Sleeve. (Medium Full.) ------ 100 

Bell, or Wing Sleeve --------- 102 

The Raglan Sleeve --------- 104 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Bishop Sleeve - - - 

Sleeve Cut Whole with Body of Coat 
.High Shoulder Seam 



PART IV.-INVERNESS, CAPES, STYLE EFFECTS, ETC. 



The Inverness - - - 

The Inverness Cape - - 
The Inverness (concluded) 
Jackets with Full Skirts 
Whole Backs - - - 

Hoods - - - 

Yz and Ya, Circle Capes - 
^ Circle Cape. (Two Darts.) 
Coats with Two Underarmpieces 
The Run of the Bottom - 
Style Effects 
Layout _ _ - 



Collars 



PART v.— COLLARS. 



PART VL— SKIRTS. 



.eniL^'ths 
Lent>■th^ 



Sweeping Points, Nos. 1, 2 and 3 - 

Sweeping Points, Nos. 4, 5 and 6 

Disposition of Waist Surplus 

Plain, 5 Gores. (Small Waist.) 

Plain, 5 Gores. (Large Waist.) - 

Plain, 7 Gores. (Wide Front Gore.) 

Plain. 9 Gores. (Narrow Front Gore. ) 

7 Gores with Yoke and Flare - 

V^arying Front, Side and Back 

\^arying Front, Side and Bad 

Prominent Abdomen 

Plaited Gored Skirt 

Umbrella Skirt 

Circular Skirt with Flounce 

Circular Skirt with Double Tunic 

Plaited Circular Skirt - 

Outer and Under Box-Plaits 

Two Outward Box-Plaits 

Three Outward Box-Plaits 

Double Outward Box-Plaits - 

Cross-Saddle Skirt - 

Side-Saddle Skirt 

Nine Gored Plaited Skirt 

Princess Skirt. (8 Gores.) 

Princess Skirt. (15 Gores.) 

Three Gored Skirt 



(concluded) 



108 
110 
112 



114 
116 
117 
118 
118 
120 
122 
124 
126 
128 
130 
133 



136 



142 
145 
\A'^ 
148 
150 
152 
154 
156 
158 
160 
163 
164 
166 
168 
172 
174 
178 
178 
180 
180 
184 
188 
192 
196 
198 
202 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GAHi^ENTS. 



APPENDIX. 



(The Forepart.) 
(The Backpart. ) 



Riding Breeches. 

Riding Breeches. 

Knee Breeches 

Knickerbockers 

Allowances for Seams and Inlays 

Coat with Dolman Sleeve 

Kimono 

Shirt Waist 

Dress Waists 



206 
208 
210 
212 
214 
218 
220 
222 
224 



THE "STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 



PREFACE 

AN enduring system of garment cutting must be founded upon principles applicable to 
all variations of the human form and the ever-changing vagaries of fashion. 

i here are departments in cutting in which the conditions and requirements render 
measures wholly unnecessary. Then proportions form the basis of procedure, and the data 
thus obtained are adequate to the end in view. Proportions determine the lengths and widths 
of the parts that are adapted to a large proportion of forms of any given height and circum- 
ference. They are the outgrowth of experience, but vary in different localities according to 
conditions of physical development. Nevertheless their field of usefulness is a broad one. 

In custom cutting, the requirements and conditions are widely dift'erent from those 
which obtain in the wholesale trade. In the former there are presented an almost infinite 
variety of forms, the requirements of each of which must be adequately met by the method 
employed. Proportions alone are therefore insufficient for the custom cutter. For every 
average quantity there are two extremes between which the average has been established. 
For this reason there will always be a necessity for a comprehensive measurement of the parts 
into which the height and circumference of the whole may be properly divided. 

The value of both proportions and measurements depends upon their approximate cor- 
rectness, without which there is no choice between them. A correct measure is preferable to 
a false proportion, and also to an average proportion, when the form is not within the pre- 
scribed limits of an average form. On the other hand an average proportion is more desir- 
able and reliable than a false measure. It is folly to condemn either per se. 

As the whole is greater than any part, so is a system of garment cutting which is alike 
applicable to all forms superior, for the needs of the custom cutter, to one applicable to a large 
number only.' While it is true that very many of the divergencies in shape from that of an 
average form may be ascertained and accommodated at the first or the second try-on, ex- 
perience demonstrates that they can l)e more readily ascertained at the outset by a proper 
measurement of each form as presented to the cutter. The original pattern can then be made 
more closely to conform to the requirements of the wearer, thus minimizing the changes at the 
try-on. 

For this reason the author has endeavored in the preparation of this work, to present and 
expound correct principles for all sizes and forms, and to provide a method by which they 
can be successfully applied. He has not undertiken to construct a system by which the un- 
skilled can, with the aid of a try-on, produce suitable garments for even a large proportion 
of forms, but to construct one which, used liy skilful cutters, will greatly lessen the changes 
at the try-on, and make garment cuttino- both ]ileasant and profitable. 

The author believes that the principles upon which this system has been built are the 
most scientific yet employed in garment cutting ; but even a perfect system will not be a guaran- 
tee of success to the cutter who is deficient in those qualities necessary to its intelligent utili- 
zation. No .system will ever be invented that will supply any one with an equivalent for 



bADIES' TAIbOH-^ADE GAHAIENTS. 



brains, or enable him to be successful in garment cutting unless he was born with an aptitude 
lor the trade. 

in the nature of the case there cannot be a '" science " of garment cutting, either for men 
or women, by which right results are infallibly secured. .V system may very nearly approach 
the scientific, but even then it may not be rightly used. Two students of the same system will 
attain dififerent degrees of proficiency because they differ in aptitude and intuition to readily 
and rightly grasp and utilize the principles on which the system is based. It is the novice 
only who prates about the " science "' of garment cutting. It is a highly honorable and useful 
occupation, in which one who has artistic taste and right methods can find a wide field for their 
cultivation and employment. 

Are you a student in garment cutting? Are you looking for some method by which you 
can, with but little effort on your part, float into fame and meritorious achievement? If 
so you are chasing a phantom. The best things in life are those which demand our 
greatest efforts if we would secure them. Those which cost the least of effort are of the least 
value. 

There be many who plod along with no clearly defined principles or rules of action. How 
all their work might be changed from a menial drudgery into an intellectual and pleasant de- 
velopment of the best that lies dormant within them if they would but chose the right 
path and follow the progressive steps necessary to their best unfolding. 

To be a successful cutter is not difficult when one has aptitude and pursues his studies 
upon principles which are logical and clear to his powers of comprehension. 

The subject herein brought to the attention of those who aspire to be successful cutters 
will be taken up at the beginning and followed in progressive steps to the end. While it is in- 
tended to be especially adapted to the needs of the custom-cutter, it is also for those who 
wish to prepare themselves for the wholesale trade, as it combines the drafting of patterns by 
the measures taken on the form to be fitted, as well as l)y the proportionate measures suitable 
for forms of all sizes of proportionate development. 

When dealing with forms of average or normal development in heights and widths, and 
of the most common variations from the normal form, these proportionate measures can be ab- 
solutely relied upon and are adequate to meet all requirements in such cases. 

A knowledge of what are the measures for a normal form of any given height and cir- 
cumference is of great value to the novice in measuring. They will be a guide to correct 
measures and a guard against wrong measures when measurements are required as in custom- 
cutting. 

One who does not knozv hozv to measure had better let measures alone until he has 
learned. A good proportionate measure is safer than a false measure taken on the form to 
be fitted. But one who has an aspiration to excel in skill as a custom-cutter, enlarge his power 
of usefulness and earning power, ?n?<.y# /'racfiVc measuring until he has become proficient in 
that. Because when dealing with forms of variable degrees in development, the lengths and 
widths of the whole and its parts can best be determined by a right measurement of the form. 
His methods used in drafting must be logical and such as will enable him to put into the draft 
the right quantities in the several parts, and in their right relation to the whole. He must 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



cultivate and infuse into his draft the highest art quaUties. His productions must be befitting 
and conformable to a standard of right and appropriateness. 

In the study of the diagrams and explanations which accompany this work, the thought- 
ful student will see the reasonableness of each step taken. 

The principles herein expounded are correct and applicable to any and all of fashion's 
caprices. 

That this work may prove an inspiration and a valuable helper to all engaged in the 
production of women's tailor-made garments is the sincere wish and expectation of 

The Author. 



Nature fits all her children with something to do." 



Lowell. 



bADIES' TAIbOK-/VlADE GAR/VIENTS. 9 



PART I 

MEASURING 



10 



THE " STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



APPLIANCES FOR HEASURINQ 



T 



HE appliances required are: 

An inch tape-measure. 

A piece of soft tailor's chalk freshly sharpened. 
A sliding-arm measuring-square. 
A sharply pointed lead pencil and a few pins. 



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THE HEASURING SQUARE 



CARE nuist be taken to rightly adjust the tape-measure to the measuring- 
square. 

A section. of a drafting-square is shown on the accompanying diagram 
with the angle at the brass swivel to which the tape-measure is attached. One arm 
extends along the short arm of the measuring-square, and the other along the edge of 
the fixed brass arm. 

The tape-measure is sewed to the swivel so that the figures on the tape are di- 
rectly opposite the corresponding ones on the drafting-square. 






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bADIES' TAIbOR-iWAOE GAR/WENTS. .11 



THE MEASURES 



T 



HE measures required for a waist, bodice or any tight-fitting a^arment which closes at 
the throat are as follows: 



1. Bust. 

2. Waist. 

3. Hip. 

4. Back-depth. 

5. Length to natural waist level ivitJi side-waist length. 

6. Length to natural waist at center of back. 

7. Full length. 

8. Half-back width. ' . ' - 

9. Blade. ■ ■ 

10. Front-depth. 

11. Over-shoulder. 

12. Sleeve (length to elbow and full length). 

13. Back-waist. 

14. Half-size of neck. ^ 

15. Top of dart. ' " 

16. Front- waist length. 

17. Front length. 

18. Depth of neck gorge. 

For garments* which do not dose at the neck and are not tight fitting, the measures 
15, 16 and 17 are on*itted. 

All the measures, except' the hip measure, are taken over a waist or smooth-fitting bodice 
and in the order as above given. 

HOW TO riEASURE 



PLACE the long arm of the measuring-square across the back at the waist, each brass arm 
close to the side and bottom of the zvaist. Bring the long arm level with the waist 
length at the sides, and mark lightly on the under side of the long arm at the center of 
the back, as shown on Figure 1. i\lake a mark on the under side of the brass arm at the left 
side and remove the square. 

Put a pin crosswise on the left side Sy^ inches below the side-waist length, and another 
the same distance below the mark made'at the* center of back to locate the hip line. 

Now notice if the run of the waist-line from the side to the center of back is on an up- 
ward or downward incline, above or below the mark made at the center of back level with the 
side waist length, and make a mark accordingly for the natural waist at center of back. This 
gives two marks at the center of back, and it should be clearly understood that the first one is 
level with the .yjW^-waist length. The second is to locate the natural waist line at the center 
of back. 



12 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



The First Measure. 

BUST. 

This measure is taken over the largest part, all around tlie body, as shown on Figure 2. 
On slight forms it should be taken easy, and on stout forms fairly close, but not tight. 

When obliged to measure over a shirt-waist or loosely fitting garment, it will be ad- 
vantageous to first fasten a strip of muslin about 3 inches wide around the body over the 
prominence of the bust close up under the arms and secured by pins at the back. This gives 
a smooth surface and the point to be made at the center of back and bottom of scye will not 
shift from its position when it has been located as hereafter explained. 

The Second Measure. 

WAIST. 

This measure is taken close over the smallest part. For a coat, either loose or tight- 
fitting at the waist, it should be about 1 inch larger than for the band of a skirt. 

The Third Measure. 

HIP. 

This measure is taken quite easy for all body garments all around on the hip-line which 
has been located 5y2 inches below the side-waist length. 

The position of the collar-seam at the back of the neck can be fixed by the eye, and should 
be indicated by a pin, light chalk mark, or pencil point. The collar-seam of the waist over 
which the measures are to be taken may be used as a guide, and the mark made as much above 
or below the seam as may be deemed proper. 

Raise the arms of the client slightly and place the fixed arm of the measuring-square 
under the right arm, and the sliding arm under the left. Then allow the arms to drop to the 
sides, and at the same time bring the sliding arm just fair against the side of the body. 
The position of the measuring-square is shown on Figure 3. Press up lightly and equally 
under each arm, and observe whether the long arm (which is extended across the back), is 
level, or on an incline from one side to the other. If level, this will indicate that the right and 
left scye depths are equal. If not, make note of the degree of incline, as for example, " Right 
shoulder one-half inch low." 

Next note the width of the body, as indicated by the figures on the top side of the measur- 
ing-square at the sliding arm (which for a 36 bust is about 11^ inches). Make a light 
mark at the center of the back at one-half of the full back width, 5^ inches. 

Having thus located a point on the back, central to the width of the body near the scye 
level, take position at the left of client, and, supporting the outer end of the sliding arm by the 
tips of the fingers of the left hand, bring the sliding arm to a level, as shown on Figure 
4. The long arm of the measuring-square should rest lightly on the fingers of the right 
hand. Do not press upwards more than just enough to bring the long arm of the square 
level with the bottom of the scye. Then, pressing the square firmly against the back, let go 
of the brass arm, take position again at back of client, hold the square in its position by the 
left hand, and with the right mark lightly with chalk or pencil point on the top side of the 
square at the middle of the back as shown on Figure 5. Remove the square. 



bADIES' TAII9OR--/VIAOE GARiWENTS. 



13 




Figure i. 






Figure 3. 



Figure 4. 



14 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



The Fourth Measure. 
back-scye-depth . 



Place the end of the tape-measure at the mark made at the collar seam, and measure to 
the mark made at the scye depth. 



The Fifth Measure. 

length to natural waist level with side-waist length 

Still holding the end of the tape at the collar seam, measure first to the mark made at 
center-of-back level with the side-waist length. Now take 

" The Sixth Measure. 

length to natural waist at center-of-back. 

This measure is also taken from the collar seam to the length of the waist at center-of- 
back. This length may be longer or shorter than that taken to the waist level with the side- 
waist length, but whether longer or shorter the fifth measure should always be taken first. 

The Seventh Measure. 
FULL length. 
Still holding the end of the tape at the collar seam, measure for the full length desired. 

The Eighth Measure. 

half-back width. 

This measure varies according to style, as at times the width is made narrow, medium 
or wide. Place the end of the tape-measure at the center-of-back about 2^ inches above the 
mark made at back-scye depth, and measure to the sleeve seam at the fashionable width. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-MAOE GAR/VIENTS. 



15 





Figure 5- 



Figure 6. 





Figure 7. 



Figure 8. 



16 THE "STANDAIID" WOHK ON CUTTING 



The Ninth Measure. 

BLADE. 

Take the sliding-arm measuring-square (the sliding arm being removed), extend the 
tape measure (which is attached at the angle at the fixed brass arm) along the fixed brass 
arm, and grasp both the arm and tape firmly by a full clasp of the right hand at the outer 
end of the brass arm. With the left hand draw the client's left arm away from the side of the 
body and bring the angle of the measuring-sc[uare up under the arm of client, the brass arm 
just touching the bottom of the arm-scye, and the long arm close against the front of .the 
shoulder, as shown on Figure 6. The angle of the square must be allowed to find the natural 
point of juncture of arm and body, the square being held only in the right hand by the fixed 
brass arm, the left hand being employed in holding the arm of client away from the side of 
the body. When the angle of the square has been in this manner adjusted to the bottom 
and front of the scye, allow client's arm to fall naturally to the side of the body, and hold the 
square in its position by the left-hand at the hollow of the ivaist. With the right hand extend 
tape across the blade and take a fairly close, but not a tight measure, to the center of the back, 
as shown on Figure 7. 



The Tenth Measure. 

front-depth. 

Without removing the square from the position, shown on Figure 7, and still holding it 
with the left hand, swing the tape with the right hand down and under the arm of client until 
you can grasp it between the second and third fingers of the left hand. The tape should be 
drawn sufficiently tight, so that the swivel, to which it is attached, will turn with it. Draw 
the tape toward the front with the fingers of the left hand, and with the right hand draw it up 
and over the left shoulder. A little practice will enable one to bring the tape to this position 
easily and quickly. During this operation do not let go of the measuring-square zvith the 
left hand, hxit carry the tape up over the shoulder zvith the right hand. Observe particularly 
that the brass arm of the square does not press up, but barely touches the bottom of the scye. 
Now take an easy measure to the center-of-back at the collar seam, as shown on Figure 8. 



The Eleventh Measure. 

over-shoulder. 

Without removing the square from the position shown on Figure 8, bring the tape over 
the shoulder about two-thirds of the distance from the side of the neck to the outer shoulder, 
and take an easy measure in a direct line to the mark made at the scye-depth at the center-of- 
liack, as shown on Figure 9. 



bADIES' TAIbOH^iVlAOE GARiWENTS. 17 



The Twelfth Measure. 



SLEEVE-LENGTHS. 



Without removing the square note the underarm sleeve lengths to the elbow and the full 
length by the figures on the long arm of the measuring-square. 

The Thirteenth Measure. 

back-waist. 

The angle of the measuring-square is still held in position at the front and bottom of the 
scye. 

Particular attention must now be given to bring the long arm of the square in as nearly 
an upright position as possible. The upper part must be pressed close against the front of 
the shoulder, as when the ninth, or blade measure was taken, and the lower part moved for- 
ward or backward as may be necessary to bring the long arm into a perpendicular position. 
Then make a light mark with chalk or pencil point on the side of the body at the natural 
waist, and opposite the back edge of the square, as shown on Figure 10. 

Remove the square ; place the end of the tape measure at the point just located at the side 
of the waist, and take an easy measure directly across to the center of the back, as shown on 
Figure 11. 

The Fourteenth Measure. 

half size of neck. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the collar-seam at the center-of-back, and measure 
close around on the line of the gorge to the center-of-neck in front, at the depth desired for 
front-of-gorge, as shown on Figure 12. 



The Fifteenth Measure. 

top of dart. 

Without removing the end of (he tape-measure from the centcr-of-back at the collar-seam, 
measure to a point y, inch below the brow of bust. The lupe should be drawn midwav be- 
tween the center-of-front and front of scve. 



18 THE " STANDARD" WOHK ON CUTTING 



The Sixteenth Measure. 



FRONT WAIST LENGTH. 



The end of the tape-measure is still held at the center-of-back and collar-seam. From 
there measure in a direct line to the bottom of the waist at the center-of-front. 



The Seventeenth Measure 

front length. 

The end of the tape-measure is still held at the center-of-back and collar-seam. From 
there measure in a direct line to the full length desired at the center-of-front. 

The Eighteenth Measure, 
depth of gorge. 

Still holding the end of the tape-measure at the center-of-back and collar-seam, bring the 
tape with the right hand closely to the center-of-front on the waist-line. Hold the tape at the 
waist with the fingers of the right hand, release the end from the back of the neck and extend it 
up directly to the center-of-neck in front. Note the number of inches on the tape where it 
passes the gorge-line at the depth desired, as shown on Figure 13. 

The greatest care must be exercised when locating the several measuring points and 
when taking the measures. The student must become familiar by careful study with the fore- 
going instructions in measuring. Then, practice will soon enable him to determine with all- 
sufficient accuracy the lengths and widths of all of the parts, in their relation to each other. 



bADIES' TAII9OR-/WAOE GAR/WENTS. 



19 





Figure 9. 



Figure 10. 





Figure 11. 



Figure 12. 



20 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 




Figure 13. 



Isiiiiiliari/.e yourself by crircful and repeated readings with the manner of taking the 
measures. Practice measuring to overcome awkwardness, and acquire speed and accuracy. 



bADIES' TAll90R>/V\A0E GARAIENTS. 21 



THE IMPORTANCE OF RIGHT HEASURES 



THERE are several ways of determing the fitting and style qualities of a garment. 
Very many will use a proportionate pattern of the size required and make any 
needed changes at the first, second or third try-on. 

This is done with diflierent degrees of success by cutters who n:ay, or may not, know how 
to produce the pattern. Not infrequently the result is a total failure. 

The sphere of usefulness and the earning power of such as these are comparatively small. 

The greater the divergency of the form to be fitted from that of a proportionate form, 
the greater inability to secure a satisfactory result, and much time, material and patience are 
wasted, all of which might have been avoided, had right methods been employed. 

Very many use measures which are sometimes far from even an approximation to cor- 
rectness, or such as are inadequate to secure right results. 

There are a great many so-called cutters who, I was about to say, have mistaken their 
vocation. It is safe, however, to say that they labor under many disadvantages which might 
be overcome if they would profit by the experience of others whose methods are more logical 
and practical. 

There is a way by which the fitting qualities of a garment can be very largely determined 
at the outset, before the try-on, and that is, primarily, by a right measurement of the form. 

The necessity for measures arises from the fact that a very great many women vary 
materially in development from the normal form, and the several lengths and widths can 
better be determined by right measures than in any other way. 

Every custom-cutter should be an expert in that particular matter. Many forms defy 
all laws of proportionate growth, and the most important matter which interests the cutter is 
to rightly determine what are the lengths and widths of the form and its parts, and their re- 
lation to each other, of tlic form to be fitted, rather than of an ideal or average form, be- 
cause what may be just right for an average form would be of no use whatever to the lady 
he is dealing with. 

To the cutter who knows what are the proper measures to take, knows how and takes 
them rightly, or even approximately so, it matters not what the shape may be. He can at 
once determine some very important data by the aid of which he can escape many pitfalls in 
which his less qualified brother is daily entangled. The changes at the try-on are minimized 
and largely rendered unnecessary. There is much to be accjuired by one who would rank 
among the topnotchers in the fraternity of custom-cutters, and it is of the first importance that 
he knozi's Iiozv to measure. One who has by study and practice acquired this fundamental 
qualification, is in a fair way towards winning distinction in the trade. 

There are those who condemn measures as mechanical, misleading and unreliable. The 
ideal cutter is in their view the genius who abhors mechanical restraints and is unhampered 
by rules and measurements. 

Of course, measures are unreliable and misleading when wrongly taken or applied. But 
my view is that the most successful custom-cutters are those who know how to ascertain and 



22 THE' " STANDARD " WORK OK CUTTING 



apply the measured sizes of the different parts of the body by short measures, and that those 
who condemn measures, per se, are they who know very Httle about right measuring. The 
cutter whose imagination is vivid and flighty and who thinks he can produce patterns for 
men or women of all shades of variation in configuration and attitude, by genius, unaided by 
the usual mechanical appliances, needs to dismount, get back to earth and study the first and 
most important part of the business. 

Now there are many who doubtless never could rightly measure the human form. Very 
well. They may shine in some other vocation, but not in that of the custom-cutter. They 
do not possess the aptitude or ability to do that particular thing. The ability of all, however, 
should not be limited to that of others of less al)ility. To very many it is a very simple and 
easy proposition to do some things that others cannot do. It is as fair to condemn mathe- 
matics because so many cannot tell how much one-third and one-half of one-third of three 
is, as to condemn measures because those who have not learned by study and practice cannot 
take them properly. 

To secure right results, absolute accuracy in measuring is by no means essential. By 
this I do not wish to imply that one may be careless in measuring. Practical accuracy is all 
that is to be hoped for, and all that is necessary. 

Neither the scholar, artist, musician, cutter, nor any one in any department of study who 
stands near the head of his class, ever arrived there bv haphazard or chance processes. They 
were willing to pursue the right paths and follow successively the progressive steps neces- 
sary to their development. 



" The rule of thumb, guess-work and loud assertion of merit may prevail for a season, 
but in the end the real merit, which can be shown and jiroved,- must take first rank." 



bADlES' TAIbOR-iWAOE GARiVlENTS. 23 



TME TABLE OF AVERAGE LENGTHS AND WIDTHS 



THE proportions of lengths to height, and of widths to bust sizes, vary in ditiferent lo- 
cahties. Those which may be right for one country or section may not be so for 
another. 

The measures given on the accompanying table are well adapted for general purposes. 
They will also serve as a guide to correct measures and as a guard against wrong measures 
to the student who has not as yet become an expert in measuring. 

To illustrate; The measures for a form of 30 bust size and about live feet and live 
inches in height will not differ materially from those given on the table for a form of normal 
development. But for one who is very erect and has high shoulders, the blade, back-waist 
and back-depth will be less, while the front-depth will be more, than as given on the table. 
For one who is stooping, has round or extra sloping shoulders, the blade, back-depth and 
back waist will be more, and the front-depth less than as given on the table. 

Again, suppose that the cutter has taken the blade measure for a form of 36 bust size 
as 9^ inches. An observation of the form does not show more fullness nor flatness through 
this part than does the normal form. And as he knows that the measure agrees with that 
as given on the table for an average form of 36 bust, the correctness of the measurement is 
at once confirmed. 

Suppose also that the measure taken on the form to be fitted was, say either 9 or IO3/2 
inches. If the cutter is familiar with average measurements, as he ought to be, he will 
know at once that, for the first, the form must be very flat through the blades, and for the 
second very full, because of the dift'erence between the measures taken and the average 
blade quantity, which is 9}i inches. 

Should an observation of the form at thac part confirm the measure taken in either case, 
all doubt as to its correctness is removed. If it does not, he may know at once that the 
measure is a false one. He should then remeasure the part until any deviation between the 
measure taken and that for an average form of corresponding bust size as given on the table 
is confirmed by the eye, which after some experience can readily detect fullness or flatness 
of the form at that part. 

The eye having become sufficiently trained, the cutter can easily determine whether the 
shoulders are either more square or sloping than an average form, or more erect or stoop- 
ing. When the eye and the measure taken are in near agreement with the lengths as found 
on the table for one of corresponding height and bust size, there need not be any doubts as 
to the correctness of the measure. Whenever any difference arises between the measure 
taken and as found on the table for a form of corresponding height and width, and it is con- 
firmed by the eye, then it is safe to abide by the measure as taken. If the eye does not con- 
firm the divergence, then it is safe to abide by the average measure as found on the table. 

In the second row of figures on the table the average heights are given in inches, rang- 
ing from 37 inches for a form of 21 bust, to 69 inches for one of 48 bust. 

For example, take a form 65 inches in height. In the column of figures below 65 is 
given the average measurements for a form of that height, as 36 bust, 25 waist, 41 hip, 7 
back-depth, etc. 



24 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Now a form of any bust size may be of more or less height than as found on the table, 
as say, 36 bust, 69 or 61 inches height. In either case the Ijack-clepth, front-depth and over- 
shoulder will remain as in the colunm for 36 Intst, viz.: 7, ll;>-4 and 15^, respectively. 

All the remaining lengths will be as found in the column agreeing with the height of the 
form. If 61 inches, then the length to the natural waist is 1434, and to the floor SZyo inches. 

The underarm length is 7j/s inches instead of Syj. If 69 inches, then the length to the 
natural waist is 16^/^, and to the floor 59)4 inches. The underarm length is 9)4 inches in- 
stead of 834. The back-depth, front-depth and over-shoulder will remain as in the column 
for 36 bust, viz. : 7, llj)4 and ISy^, respectively. Of course the back and front-depths may be 
modified by the squarer shoulders of the short form and extra sloping shoulders of the taller 
one. 

The length of a coat extending to the bottom of the knee for a form 53 inches in height 
is as found on the table for that height, viz.: 32y^ inches, and for 68 inches in height, 41)4 
inches. For the first the sleeve length is 14j4 and for the second 18 inches. 

The difference between the lengths to the natural waist and floor for a form 66 inches 
in height, as found on the table, is 40% inches. The skirt length given for this height is 4234 
inches. The difference of 1)4 inch is added to give the requisite extra length over the round 
or prominence of the hips. 

Corresponding lengths for any height given on the talile can be detained in the same 
manner. 

For a normal form the difference between the bust and waist sizes is 1 1 inches, as for 
36 bust and 25 waist. In case of corpulency as for 36 bust and 28 waist, the back-waist is 
as found in the column in which 28 is given as the waist size, viz. : 7 inches. 

There is another class of forms of extreme bust development, the neck, shoulder measures, 
blade, waist, back-waist and hip conformable to a person of much less bust size. As for ex- 
ample, a form may have a luist size of say 42 inches and all the remaining quantities not 
more than a normal form of 36 bust. 

These remarks are intended for the novice in measuring. He should become familiar by- 
study with the average measures for forms of average or normal development. Then as 
he is called upon to measure for either short, stout, tall, slim, erect or stooping forms, with 
high or extra sloping shoulders, or corpulent forms, or forms with very small waists, blades, 
neck and extreme bust development, the differences Ijetween the measures taken and those for 
forms of corresponding bust size as found on the table are justifiable and readily confirmed 
by the eye because of their apparent divergence from an average form. 

Not until the cutter has become by practice an expert in measuring can he afford to ignore 
average measurements. When expert, it matters not what the shape or development may be. 
Then he can trust his measures. You may become an expert, but not without careful 
practice. Personal instruction under a competent instructor will be of more value to the 
student than can be g"ained by the stud}' of liooks alone. 



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26 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



The tables will be found useful as a basis for drafting proportionate patterns, and an in- 
dispensable necessity if called upon to draft a pattern for a party living at a distance when 
only the fundamental measures, as height, bust, waist and hip, are given. 

In such cases all the proper lengths and widths can be determined from the table. They 
will prove more reliable and secure a more satisfactory result than if the pattern is drafted ac- 
cording to measures taken by some one who knows as little about right measuring as a fish 
knows about flying. 

A description of the form, when possible and reliable, should always accompany orders 
of this kind, as " customer stands either erect, normal or stooping." The " blades are flat, 
normal or full." The " shoulders are high, normal or extra sloping," etc. But here again 
you will encounter a fact that very seldom one who has not been trained in the business can 
give a right description of a form. I have had a large experience in cutting country orders, 
and found bv the descriptions sent that women were both erect and stooping, both square and 
sloping, both full-bladed and flat-bladed. All these descriptions applied to the same form. So 
that under such conditions, draft by average measurements. 



If we know our weakness it becomes our strength." 

RUSKIN 



IsADIES' TAIbOK'/WAOE GAI^/WENTS. 



27 



K D J C H 5 A 

5 in N rj rj M oi rj M M W w 5 * ^T S !5 Z !2 *"»»*t----'--i"«'---JQ,*» 



esc^'Nirjyf c^Mcic^iNcf 



, A'll. , t-ll, , G|l., .fell. .,l|l. , .on:,. K>. ,.!&. i.l^. ,.R ,.l^-. , .F 



SEAH ALLOWANCES 



ALL the drafts in this work are made to the measures as taken on 
the form unless expHcitly stated otherwise. These represent 
the lengths and widths of the finished garment and its parts. 
Therefore oil seams must be allowed for z<.'licn cuffing fhe material. 

THE DRAFTING SQUARE 



IN all the following explanations, whenever the fractions yb, y^, '/s, y2, 
etc., are used, unless expressly stated otherwise, they are according 

to the several divisions of the half-bust, half-waist or half-hip 
found on the ordinary drafting square. As for example the distance 
between two given points may be given as j4 waist, the waist being 24 
inches. Find half of 24, which is 12, on the divisions of Fourths. 
From this to the angle of the drafting square is ^4 waist or 3 inches for 
this size of waist. When it is said that from one point to another is 
one /';/// fourth of the waist, the waist being 24 inches, then is meant one 
full fourth or 6 inches. 

Take, for example, 36 bust, 24 waist, 42 hip. ys bust is half of 36, 
which is IS, on the divisions of Eighths, as from A to B, 2^4 inches. 

y^ bust is 18 on the divisions of Fourths, as from A to C, A-y^ inches. 

J^ bust is 18 on the divisions of Halves, as from A to D, 9 inches. 

ye bust is 18 on the divisions of Sixths, as from A to E, 3 inches. 

ys bust is 18 on the divisions of Thirds, as from A to F, 6 inches. 

% bust is 18 on the divisions of Two-thirds, as from A to G, 12 
inches. 

y^ waist is half of the waist, 12, on the divisions of Fourths, as from 
A to H, 3 inches. 

J^ waist is 12 on the divisions of Halves, as from A to J, 6 inches. 

y2 hip is half of the hip, 21, on the divisions of Halves, as from A 
to K, which is 10^4 inches. 





_«5 



M- 



Sj 



14 

184 

16-f 

IT 

18 -t 

19 

2(4 

21 

20-: 

^24-: 



re!" 






G 



28 THE "STaNDARO" WORK ON CUTTING 



" But few escape a crucial period in life, the psychological moment which, if grasped, 
brings success. To be equal to the occasion you must lay a solid foundation, deep, wide 
and strong." 



bADIES' TAIbOR.iVlAOE GAR^IENTS. 29 



PART II 



C0AT5, JACKETS, ETC. 



THE "STANOAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



FOUNDATION DRAFT 



DIAGRAM A. 

THIS drcaft underlies the construction of all body garments. All the lettered and num- 
bered points on this diagram are correspondingly lettered and numbered on those 
which follow, and are obtained in the same manner as explained herein. So that, so 
much on this diagram as is produced in the same manner as those which follow, may not 
be repeated, and further explanations will be taken up in progressive order. 
The measures used for this diagram are 



36 Bust, 
25 Waist, 
7 Back-Depth, 

153^ Natural-Waist (level with Side- 
waist-Length). 



63/2 Half-Back Width, 
9% Blade, 
11^ Front-Depth, 
15^ Over-shoulder, 
6>4 Back-Waist. 



TO DRAFT. 

Square the lines Al and M, and Al and CI. 

Al to A is 1/24 bust, j4 inch. 

A to B is the back-depth, 7 inches. 

A to C is 34 inch more than the natural- waist level with the side-waist length, 15-)4 
inches in all. 

C to CI is 5y2 inches always. 

Sc]uare forward from B, C and CI. 

C to E is 134 inch, when the bust is 11 or more inches larger than waist. (See corpulent 
forms.) 

Square downward from E to establish 1. 

From 1 to 2 is 34 inch for garments having a backpart, sidebody and underarm piece, and 
3/4 inch for those which have less than three parts between E and T. 

Connect A and E by a straight line and sha])e the center-of-back from A through E and 
2 as represented. This establishes F. 

Al to L is li bust, 2% inches. 

Al to M is the half-back width, 63^ inches, and V to j is the same. Connect M and J. 

F to G is the blade, 9^ inches. Square downward from G to establish T. 

G to 3 is 3^ bust, 3 inches. 

From 3 to H is 1 34 inch. Scfuare upward from H. 

F to I is one-half full size of bust, 18 inches. I to 13 is 34 inrl- 

Connect L and T. This establishes 7. 

G to 10 is 1 inch. Square upward from 10. 

Shape from A to L and from T past 7, as represented. 

Shape the scye from 8 (which may he %, y2 or 3/[ inch forward of 7, according to style) 



bADIES' TAIfeOR-iVlADE GAR/V\ENTS. 



31 




Diagram A. 



32 THE ♦♦ STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



to the notch at front of scye, which is 1^4 inch above 10, dropping ^ inch below the breast- 
line, as represented. 

G to 4 is ^ inch. 

From 4 to N is the front depth, 1 1 ^ inches, less the width of the top of the backpart from 
A to L. For this draft A to L is 2^^ inches. This deducted from the front-depth, 11^ 
inches, leaves 9^ inches as the quantity between 4 and N. 

Connect N and 4 to establish R. 

Point 5 is half-way from A to F. Connect 5 and N. 

Connect F and M to establish 6. 

N to 14 is the same as L to 6. 

F to 6 and 4 through R to 14 is the over-shoulder, 15^^ inches, which in this case falls 
on the line N5. When drafting by the average measures the front shoulder is shaped as on 
this diagram, point 14 falling on the line N5 as represented. In custom cutting point 14 may 
fall above or below the line N5, as the application of the over-shoulder measure may bring it. 

N to 11 is the same as L to 8. 

Shape the shoulder seam from N through 14 to 11, dropping ^4 inch at 11 below a straight 
line drawn from N through 14, and finish the scye from 11 to the notch at front of scye as 
represented. 

Square forward from N. 

N to O is 1/6 bust, 3 inches. 

Draw a light straight line from O throvigh 13. 

O to 12 is Ys, bust, 2^4 inches for this draft. Shape tlic neck from N to 12 as represented. 

T to U is the back waist, 6% inches. 

U to V is one-half of full size of waist, 12^ inches. 

Square downward from V to establish X. 

The quantity between U and E represents a surplus of size through the back- waist, wliich 
must be eliminated when the garment is to be made tight-fitting through that part. 

It follows that as from U to V is one-half of the full size of the waist, all that quantity 
forward of V is also a surplus which must be eliminated by darts or otherwise, when the gar- 
ment is to be made tight-fitting through that part. 

The elimination of these quantities is explained further on. 



laADIES' TAIl90R=iWA0E GAf^ENTS. 33 



SINGLE BREASTED BOX-COAT 



I 



DIAGRAM 1. 

SHALL first introduce a box-coat. It is of simple construction, hangs loosely from the 
shoulders, and is a good representation of this tvpe of garments. It may be made an}^ 
length required. 

The measures tised for the accompanying diagram are as follows: 

36 bust, 

25 waist, 

41 hip, 

7 back-depth, 

I5y2 side-waist length, 

— length, 

TO DRAFT. 



6>1 half-back width, 

9% blade, 
11^ front-depth, 
15^ over-shoulder, 

6yl back-waist. 



Begin by making the foundation draft (Diagram A). This gives all the light centered 
points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. Then proceed a.-; 
follows : 

Extend the line below Al towards D. 

A to D is the length. Square forward from D. 

K is half-way between J and 10. Square downward from K to establish 15 on the hip- 
line. 

From 15 to 16 is J/g hip, more or less, as desired. 

Establish points 33 and 34, each 3/ inch below the breast-line, and J. j inch respectively 
forward and backward of the line below K. 

Reshape the back-scye from 8 to 33, and the f ront-scye from 1 1 to 34, as represented. 

Shape the backpart from 33 through 16 as represented. 

Later on the variations for flatness and prominence of the form at front of abdomen will 
be fullv explained. For the present I remark that in this instance the form is vicdiuin fiat at 
that part. 

In such cases, X to Y is ■)'« inch. 

From 1 to 2 is 54 inch. 

From 2 to 16 and Y to 17 is one-half of the full-size of the hip, 20i^ inches. 

From 17 to 18 is 2^^ to 3 inches. 

Shape the sideseam of the forepart from 34 through 18 as represented. 

Shape the bottom of the backpart from D to 20, which is about ^ inch above the line 
DO. 

Z is one-third of the distance from the breast-line to the waist-line. Square downward 

from Z bv the breast-line to establish S. 



34 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



S to W is Yz inch. Draw a straight hne from Z through W. 

The hne from the neck-point, 12, through Z and W represents what is ordinarily the 
center-of-front for all box-coats, which extend below the hip-line in length, when only a 
moderate amount of fullness is desired below the prominence of the bust. But as the figure 
which is superimposed on the diagram shows more than a moderate amount of fullness below 
the prominence of the bust, the center-of-front may safely be advanced not more than 1 inch 
forward of S and shaped below Z as through 9. This establishes P, 9 and Q. 

Having established the center-of-front as from 12 through Z to Q, proceed as follows: 

From the center-of-front line to the front edge is according to style, 1% inch in this 
case. 

From the center-of-front to the button-line is 3/2 to Y^ inch less than to the front edge, 
according to the width of stitching and size of button. 

Now establish the end of the roll according to style as at 24, and draw the crease-line 
from 24 towards a point Ya inch from the side of the neck. 

Now shape the outer edge of the rever according to style as from 24 to 27, and from 
27 to 28, which is at the end of the collar. Run a tracer from 24 along the crease-line and fold 
the paper which is forward of it underneath the draft. Then run the tracer along the lines 
from 24 to 27 and to 28 and make a cross tracing at 28. Now open the crease and the marks 
of the tracer will give the light solid lines from 24 to 29 and backward of 29, and also estab- 
lish the point where the end of the collar is to join the neck-gorge as at 31. Now shape the 
gorge from N to 31. (See explanation of Diagram 53.) 

Should style establish point 27 higher than as represented on the accompanying figure 
(about half-way between the neck-point 12 and the breast-line in this case), then the 
gorge-line would run that much above 12. Should style establish it lower on the breast 
than as on the figure, then the gorge-line will run below 12, as determined by the tracing. 

Now, while it is desirable that the neck-dart shall extend to as near the breast-line as 
possible, it would look unsightly in some cases. For this reason it is made no deeper than will 
be hid by the rever as represented, as from 12 to 30. 

Cut the paper through from 12 to 30; spread the cut open i/> inch, and press the fold flat 
forward of 30. Then reshape the edge of the rever above 24 as represented by the heavy 
line. 

O to 22 is 1 inch. 

Pivot at Z and sweep forward and backward from 22. 

From 34 to 21 is the same as from 33 to 20. Shape the bottom from 21 to 23 as repre- 
sented. 

The pockets are placed according to style. In this instance the front of the pocket opening 
is obtained by squaring downward from a point 3^ inch forward of H. The opening for the 
hand pocket is 1^ inch above the hip-line. 



SADIES' TAIIaOR-AlAOE GARiVlENTS. 



35 




23 "^23 



Diagram 1 



36 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



DOUBLE=BREASTED HALF^BOX COAT 



T 



DIAGRAM 2. 

HIS garment slightly traces the form at the back. The sideseam may be placed fur- 
ther under the arm ; the seam above 25 may extend to the shoulder, and the length may 
be longer or shorter, accordmg- to style. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows : 



36 bust, 
25 waist, 
41 hip, 
7 ])ack-depth, 
153^ side-waist length, 
50 length, 



6j^ half-back width, 

9% blade, 
11^ front-depth, 
15^ over-shoulder, 

6% back-waist. 



TO DRAFT. 



Begin by making the foundation draft. (Diagram A). This gives all the light cen- 
tered points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. Then proceed 
as follows: 

Extend the line below Al through CI towards D. 

A to D is the length. Square forward from D. 

The sideback seam is shaped according to style. It may be placed further under the arm, 
and the backpart may be made wider at the bottom than as shown on the diagram. Therefore, 
shape the seam according to taste or style. On the diagram, D to 20 is 2>4 inches more than 
from F to J. J to 9 is 1 inch. Connect 9 and 20. This establishes 16. 

Later on the variations for flatness and prominence of the form at front of abdomen will 
be fully explained. In this case it is supposed to be iiicdiuin Hat, and X to Y is therefore Vs 
inch. 

From 1 to 2 is % inch. 

From 2 to 16 and Y to 17 is one-half of the full size of the hip, 20^^ inches. 

From 17 to 18 is 1 inch. 

Draw a guide line from J through 18 towards 21, and shape the sideseam of the fore- 
part as represented, hollowing from the straight guide line about 1 inch on the waist-line 
and rounding outward a trifle below the hip line. 

Shape the bottom of the backpart to 20, which is about I/2 inch above the line D Q. 

Z is one-third of the distance from the breast-line to the waist-line. Square down- 
ward from Z by the breast-line to establish S. 

For a box forepart S to W is jA inch. Draw a straight line from Z through W. 

The line from the neck-point, 12, through Z and W is the center-of-front for coats of this 
type. 

Shape the seam according to style from the scye, in this case through 25, which is 5^ 
inches backward of Q. 



bADIES' TAII9OR-/VIAOE GAR/WENTS. 



37 




Diagram 2. 



38 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



A small fish may be taken out if so desired midway between the bust seam and sideseam 
as represented at T. 

From the line Z Q to the front edge is according to style, 2 inches in this case. 

Establish the end of the roll according to style as at 24, and draw the crease-line from 
24 towards a point }i inch from the side of the neck. 

Shape the outer edge of the rever according to style as from 24 to 27 and 28. (See ex- 
planation of Diagram 53.) 

Square forward by the crease-line from 27, as from 15 and extend the line towards 29. 

Square forward in the same manner from 28 and extend the line toward 30. 

From 15 to 29 is the same as 15 to 27. 

From the crease-line to 30 is the same as from the crease-line to 28. 

Shape the gorge from N to 30 and the rever as represented by the light solid line. 

Make the length of the sideseam to 21 the same as the backpart to 20. 

Q to 22 is 1 inch. 

Pivot at Z and sweep forward and backward from 22. 

Shape the bottom from 21 to 22 as represented. 

Cut out a >4-inch dart below 31 as represented. From 30 to 32 is >4 inch. 

Reshape the rever from 31 to 32 and from 32 to 24, adding ^ inch to the width of the 
top of the rever (the same as is taken out by the dart), as represented by the heavy line. 

All the quantity forward of the line V Y is a surplus over and above the size of the 
waist, T to U representing that portion of the waist size from T to the center of the back at 
E, and from U to V representing one-half of the full size of the waist. 

The quantities therefore between U and E, V and P, and Y and W would necessarily have 
to be eliminated for a garment that is tight-fitting, as is explained for tight-fitting gar- 
ments. 

For one that is to be more or less shaped to the form at the waist-line, so much of the 
quantities between U and E, V and P, and Y and W may be taken out, as is explained for 
the next diagram. 

In this case all the surplus forward of V and Y is left in the garment, as it is to hang 
full below the prominence of the bust. The surplus through the back-waist has been increased 
as much as the forepart overlaps the backpart on the waist-line. 

This type of coat can be of any length required. When it is desired that it shall trace 
the form more closely than as represented on this diagram, but not tight-fitting at the back- 
waist, then it should be drafted with an underarm piece, as is explained for the next diagram. 



bADIES' TAlIsOR-iWAOE GAI^/V1ENTS.> 39 



S1NQLE=BREASTED COAT 

Front Slightly Shaped. Back Moderately Shaped at Waist. 

DIAGRAM 3. 

THE placing of the seams is a matter of style. The backpart may be of less width at the 
waist-line and the side-back seam extend over tlie shoulder. This would in no way 
change the principle upon which a large variety of coats of this type are drafted. They 
are made any length desired. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows: 



6>4 half-back width, 

9% blade, 
11^ front-depth, 
15^ over-shoulder, 

6^ back-waist. 



36 bust, 

25 waist, 

41 hip, 

7 back-depth, 

153^ side-waist length, 

— length, 

TO DRAFT. 

Begin by making the foundation draft. (Diagram A). This gives all the light cen- 
tered points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. Then proceed 
as follows : 

Extend the line below Al through CI towards D. 

A to D is the length. Square forward from D. 

Shape the side-back seam according to style. On the diagram it is shaped about 1 
inch backward of J on the breast-line; E to 16 is ^ inch less than y^ waist, and D to 18 is 2 
inches more than C to 16. 

From 1 to 2 is % inch. 

Draw a guide line from E, passing ^ inch forward of 2 ; shape the center-of-back 
towards 15 and add 1 inch for the opening below 2 as represented. 

In this case the form to be fitted is niedium flat in front below the waist-line, and X to Y 
is therefore ^ inch. (See explanations for Diagrams 15, 16 and 17.) 

By measuring from Y to 2 it will be found that it measures in this case 16% inches, while 
the required size of the coat on the hip-line must be 1 inch more than one-half of the full 
size of the hip. As the full hip is 41 inches, 1 inch more than one-half of the full size is 
2iy2 inches. Now as between Y and 2 the draft measures only 16% inches, the difference 
required, viz. : 4% inches, is gained by overlapping the parts as from 17 to 40 and 35 to 36 as 
follows : 

From 17 to 40 is about one-half of the above 4% inches, say 2>^ inches, and the re- 
maining 2^4 inches is the quantity between 35 and 36. 

On the diagram G to K is i^ inch. The seam below K may be placed further back if 
desired, and should be for the larger sizes. 



40 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



T to 21 is the same as G to K. 

From 21 to 20 is one-third of the quantity between U and E. 

Draw a straight hne from K midway between 20 and 21 to establish 22. 

From 35 to 36 is in this case 2]/^ inclies, as above explained. This is divided equally on 
each side of 22. 

Draw a guide-line from 7 through 40 and shape the back-seam of the sidebody through 
lo and 40 as represented. There is ^ inch taken out between the sidebody and backpart at 
ihe top of the side-back seam and below the hip-line the seam follows the guide-line by a slight 
curve. 

Shape the front of the sidebody from K through 20 and 36 as represented. After 
passing 3 or 4 inches below the hip-line the run of the front edge to 34 is obtained by squaring 
downward by the hip-line. 

Shape the sideseam of the forepart from K through 21 and 35 as represented. Below 35 
it is shaped towards 25 parallel with the back edge of the sidebody, 40 to 19. 

Z is one-third of the distance from the breast-line to the waist-line. Square downward 
from Z by the breast-line to establish S. 

When the forepart is to be but slightly shaped to the form on the waist-line by a small 
dart, then S to W is 1 inch. (For a box forepart S to W is I/2 inch.) 

Draw a straight line from Z through \V. This establishes Q. 

The line from the neck-point, 12 through Z to Q, is the center-of-front. 

When the dart seam is to extend to the shoulder seam, establish point 39 according to 
style. 

P to 31 is Yi waist, more or less. 

Shape from 39 through 31 towards 2)2> according to style. 

From 31 to 32 is 1 inch, or 13^2 inch, according to the shapeliness desired on the waist- 
line. The width of the dart should not be made more than one-third of the quantity between 

V and P for coats of this type. 

To make this clear I will repeat the explanation of Diagram A in so far as related to 
points U, V, and P. 

T to U is the back-waist, 6^4 inches. 

From this it should be evident that the quantity between U and E is a surplus of size 
through the back-waist which would all have to be eliminated when the garment is to be 
made tight-fitting through that part. In this case one-third of this only has been taken out 
between 20 and 21 for the reason that the coat is not to be tight-fitting at that part. 

The half size of the full waist is established at V, which for a 25 waist is 12^/2 inches for- 
ward of U. 

Now as from U to V is one-half of the full size at the waist, it is evident that all between 

V and P represents fullness which is left in the coat when it is made without a bust dart. The 
amount taken out' by the dart when the coat is to be slightly shaped to the form on the waist- 
line simply reduces the amount of fullness left in the coat at that part. 



bAOIES' TAIbOH-AlAOE GARMENTS. 



41 




Diagram 3. 



42 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



When the dart is small, as in this case, square downward from 32 toward Z7 , and shape 
above 32 to opposite Z as represented. 

The dart seam may termmate opposite Z if preferable. 

P>om the line Z Q to the front edge is according to style, 2 inches for this draft. 

From the line Z Q to the button-line is % inch less than to the front edge. 

Establish the end of the roll according to style, as at 24, and draw the crease-line from 
24 towards a point % inch from the side of the neck. 

Shape the outer edge of the rever according to style, as from 24 to 27 and 28. (See 
explanation of Diagram 53.) 

Square forward by the crease-line from 27 and extend the line towards 29. 

Square forward in the same manner from 28 towards 30. 

From the crease-line to 29 is the same as to 27, and from the crease line to 30 the same as 
to 28. 

Shape the gorge from N to 30 and the rever from 30 to 29 and 24 as represented. 

Shape the bottom of the backpart as represented to 18, which is about ^ inch above the 
line D Q. 

From 16 to 19 is the same as from 16 to 18. 

Shape the sidebody from 19 to 34 as represented. 

From 21 to 25 is the same as from 20 to 34. 

Pivot at Z and sweep forward and backward from 1 inch below Q. 

Shape the forepart from 25 to 38 as represented. 

For a coat of this type but tight-fitting at the back-waist, the backpart should be made 
narrower between E and 16. The side-back may run to the scye or to the shoulder seam. 
A trifle more than one-third of the quantity between U and E is taken out between the back- 
part and sidebody on the waist-line, and the remainder between 20 and 21. 

The seam below K should then be placed sufficiently backward of its position on the dia- 
gram to give less width to the sidebody, always remembering that at that part which is to be 
made tight-fiting better results are secured with narrow parts than with wide ones. 

Before cutting the revers as drafted from 24 to 29 and 30, cut out a dart as represented 
at the neck-gorge Yz inch wide at the top, and reshape the top of the revers, advancing point 
30 the amount taken out by the neck-dart, Yz inch, and the front edge the same amount for- 
ward of 29 as represented by the heavy lines. 



laAOIES' TAII9OR-/WAOE GARiVlENTS. 43 



" The world is all gates, all opportunities to him who can make use of them. And power 
and fortune are all ahout us, awaiting the eye that can see, the ear that can hear, the hand 
that can achieve." 



44 THE "STANDARD" WORK OK CUTTING 



THE NECK-POINT 



T 



i bust. 



DIAGRAM 4. 

HE neck-point, 12, on the preceding diagrams has been estabhshed as explained for 
Diagram A, as follows: 

Having first obtained the shoulder point, N, square forward from N. N to O is 



Draw a straight line from O through 13. 

O to 12 is yi bust. 

This establishes point 12 right for the uitcniicdiate and proportionate sizes. But for all 
coats which close at the neck, and in particular for forms of large bust development, the meas- 
ures for depth of gorge and half-size of neck (the 14th and 18th measures), should always 
be taken and applied to rightly establish this point, so that undue fullness at the neck may 
be avoided by the neck-dart or otherwise. 

Forms are frequently presenting themselves of unusual bust development, as 42 bust, 
24 waist. But the size of the neck does not increase in the same ratio with the bust, as when 
the waist is large, or in proportion to the bust, as for a short, stout form. 

Where the neck might measure, say ISj/^ inches for a form of 42 bust and of average 
development, it might not be more than 14 or 14^ for a form that is of the same bust size, 
but small through the blades, waist and hips, etc. The accompanying diagram is drafted 
for a form of 40 bust. All other sizes are the same as on the " table of average lengths and 
widths " for a form of 36 bust, and all the points excepting 34, Bl, P, 2, 3 and 4 are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram A. 

Having made the foundation draft in all respects as explained for Diagram A, proceed 
as follows: 

A to L and N to 3 is the front-waist length. Sweep backward from 3, pivoting at N. 

Hold the tape-measure at 3, the front-waist length; release it from N; extend it up- 
ward towards O and make a short sweep-line at the measure taken for depth-of-gorge, as rep- 
resented, just above 12. 

Reshape the gorge from N, as represented by the heavy line, to the intersection of the 
line from O through 13 with the sweep-line. 

Now apply the half-size of neck by measuring the top of the backpart, A to L, placing this 
at N, and following the new line of gorge, mark the size required as at 34. 

The center-of-front line may remain below 12, but if so, then a neck-dart must be used 
to obviate fullness at the neck, and the width of the dart should be as much as the line 03 
passes forward of 34 

If the neck-dart for any reason is objectionable then the center-of-front line is drawn from 
34 through Bl (which is opposite the prominence of the bust). This gives the line from 
34 to 4. 



bADIES' TAIl90H=iVlAOE GAI^ENTS. 



45 




Diagram 4. 



46 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



T 



SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET 

Tight-Fitting Back. Forepart Slightly Shaped. Regular Form. 

DIAGRAM 5. 
HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows: 



36 bust, 
25 waist, 
41 hip, 
7 back-depth, 
153/2 side- waist length, 
21^ length, 



6>4 half-back width, 

9j4 blade, 
11% front-depth, 
15^ over-shoulder, 

634 back-waist, 
21 front- waist length, 



TO draft. 



Begin by making the foundation draft as explained for Diagram A. This gives all the 
light centered points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. 
Then proceed as follows : 

A to D is the length, 211^^ inches. Square forward from D. 

The position of point 9 on the shoulder seam of the backpart is placed according to 
style. 

E to 18 is according to style, 1-12 bust for this draft, which is 13^2 inch. 

Square downward from 18 to establish K. 

From 1 to 2 and from K to 16 are each 3^ inch. 

Shape the side-back seam from 9 through 18 and 16 as represented. This establishes 
20. (For round backs, see Dia. 6.) 

As previously explained, T to U is the back-waist, 6^4 inches, and U to V is one-half 
of the full waist, I23/2 inches. From U to E therefore represents the back- waist surplus, 
or the amount to be taken out on the waist-line at the seams below 20, J and 31, which for 
this draft is 2% inches. 

From 18 to 21 is a trifle more than one-third of the back-waist surplus, say 1 inch. 

Draw a guide line from 7 through 21. This establishes 15 on the hip-line. From 15 
to 33 is % inch. 

Shape the back seam of the sidebody below 20 through 21 to 33 as represented. 

G to 31 and T to 22 are each ^ inch. (More for large sizes.) 

From 22 to 23 is a trifle less than one-half of the back- waist surplus, say 1^4 inch. 

Connect 31 and 22. Connect 31 and 23. 

The unlettered circled disk between 24 and 25 is half-way between 21 and 23. 

Now, as the total amount of the back-waist surplus, U to E, is 2% inches for this draft, 
and as 2% inches of it has been taken out between 18 and 21, and 22 and 23, the remaining 
5^2 inch is placed equally one-half on each side of the unlettered circled disk. This gives 
24 and 25. 



SADIES' TAIIaOR-iVlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



47 




Diagram 5. 



48 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Draw a straight line from 31 through 32, which is midway between 22 and 23, and es- 
tabhsh 17, 3^ inch backward of it on the hip-Hne. 

Draw a straight hne through J and midway between 24 and 25, and establish 19, 34 
inch forward of it on the hip-line. 

Connect J and 24. Connect J and 25. 

When the form to be fitted is medium Hat at front of abdomen below the waist-line, 
then X to Y is ^ inch. (Variations in flatness and extra fullness at this part are explained 
for Diagrams 15, 16 and 17.) 

Connect V and Y. 

The line from V to Y represents the run of the center-of-front on the form to be fitted, 
and all forward of this line is a surplus, such portion of which may be taken out by the dart 
between 39 and 40 as is required to secure the desired shapeliness to the waist as Yi, 34. ^ 
or y^ of the quantity between Q and Z, Y and W. 

First establish the line from Bl to W in the following manner. This is the center-of- 
front line on the jacket. 

Bl is one-third of the distance from the breast-line to the waist-line. 

Square downward from Bl by the breast-line. This establishes S on the hip-line. 

When the forepart is to be made slightly shaped in on the waist-line, then S to W is 1 
inch. (For a box-front S to W is J^ inch.) 

Draw a straight line from Bl through W. This establishes P on the line which is 
squared forward from C. 

A to L and N to Z is the front-waist length, 21 inches. Connect Z and T. This es- 
tablishes Q. 

For this draft O to Z measures 33^ inches, and one-half of it is to be taken out by the 
dart as from 39 to 40. 

Establish 38 on the shoulder seam the same distance from N as 9 is from L, and shape 
the front of the dart seam from 38 to the bott(jm according to style as represented. This 
establishes 39 and 41. 

From 39 to 40 is l.)4 inch, as above explained, or less. 

Square downward from 40. This establishes 42. 

Shape the dart above 40 to opposite Bl as represented. 

On the draft as so far made, the sidebody overlaps the backpart as from 16 to 33, and in 
order to ascertain what the size of the draft is on the hip-line from Y to the center-of-back at 
2, measure from Y to Z2> and then from 16 to 2. 

For this draft, Y to 33 and 16 to 2, measure 173^ inches. But as the garment must 
measure between these points 3^ inch more than one-half of the full hip, or 21 inches, the 
difference of 33^ inches is gained by overlapping the parts that amount between 34 and 35, 
36 and ?>7, as follows: Place about one-half of it, say L)4 inch, divided equally on each 
side of 17 and one-half divided equally on each side of 19. This gives 35 and 34 each % inch 
from 1 7, and 36 and 37 each % inch from 19. 

Connect 22 and 34. Connect 23 and 35. Connect 24 and 36. Connect 25 and Z?. 

Shape the seams below 31 and J. and reshape the top of the underarmpiece above J as 
represented. 



bADIES' TAII90R=/V1A0E GA^^^ENTS. 49 



Add \j4 inch for the overlap in front forward of the hne Bl to W, and estabhsh the end 
of the roll according to style, as at 26. 

Draw the crease-line from 26 towards a point }i inch from the side of the neck. 

Estabhsh points 27 and 28 according to style, and shape the rever from 26 to 27 and 
28. (See explanation of Diagram 53.) 

Run a tracer along the crease-line and fold the paper, which is forward of it, under- 
neath the draft. Now run the tracer on the lines from 26 to 27 and 28. 

On unfolding the crease the marks of the tracer give the light solid lines from 26 to 29 
and 30. Now shape the gorge from N to 30 as represented. 

Cut a ^-inch neck-dart and equalize the lengths of both sides of the dart. 

Reshape from the front of the dart to a point 5^ inch forward of 30, and the rever to a 
point J/2 inch forward of 29 as represented by the heavy lines. 

The button line is ^ inch backward of the center-of-front line. 

Pivot at 20 and sweep forward from 18 to establish 21. 

Pivot at J and sweep from 24 to 25. 

Pivot at 31 and sweep from 22 to 23. 

Place paper underneath the draft and trace ofif separately the sidebody and then the un- 
derarmpiece. Run a tracer across each piece on the breast-line; from sweep to sweep on the 
waist-line, and at the length on line D. 

Cut the two pieces out and the backpart, cutting off all the marks made by the tracer at 
the edges of the pattern, but leaving a small margin of paper at the bottom of each piece for 
shaping, as is explained for Diagrams 51 and 52.) 

Pivot at Bl and sweep forward and backward from 1 inch below W. 

From 22 to the bottom of the sideseam of the forepart is the same as the underarmpiece 
below 23. 

The bottom of the forepart is first shaped as represented by the broken line into the 
sweep-line below W, and then as by the heavy line, making the length below 40 the same as 
that below 39. 

Points 17 and 19, established as above explained, are usually about right, but not so in 
all cases. They are so established to secure less width to the underarmpiece on the hip- 
line. But in all cases measure the width of the sidebody from 33 to 37, and of the underarm- 
piece from 35 to 36 as drafted, and observe whether or not the sidebody is wider than the 
underarmpiece on the hip-line. If it is then reduce the width at 37 and add a like amount 
to the underarmpiece at 36. The widths of the two parts should be nearly the same, but if 
there is any difference the underarmpiece should be a trifle the widest. 



so THE "STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 



T 



SINQLEBREASTED COAT 

(Regular Form.) 

DIAGRAM 6. 

HIS coat is tight-fitting throughout on the waist-hne. The sideback seam extends to 
the shoulder. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows : 

12^ front-depth, 
16;>4 over-shoulder, 

7 back-waist, 
15 neck, 

14>4 top-of-dart, 
22 front-waist length, 

6 depth of gorge. 



40 bust, 
29 waist, 
44 hip, 

7ys back-depth, 
15^/2 side-waist length, 
38 length, 

7 half-back width, 
10^ blade, 

TO DRAFT 



Begin by making the Foundation Draft, Diagram A. This gives all the light centered 
points, which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. Then proceed 
as follows: 

Extend the line from Al through CI. 

A to D is the length, 38 inches. Square forward from D. 

Shape the center-of-back from 2 to 45 as represented, and add 1 inch for an overlap 
from about 2 inches below E or to style. 

L to 9, and E to 18 are according to style. For this draft E to 18 is 1-12 bust, 1^^ inch. 
Square downward from 18 to establish K. 

K to 16 is 5^ inch. 

Draw a straight guide-line from 18 through 16 and shape the side-back from 9 through 
18 and 16, rounding a trifle backward of the guide-line towards 31 as represented. This 
establishes 20. 

As has been repeatedly explained, T to U is the backwaist, 7 inches, and U to V is one- 
half of the full waist, 14j.'2 inches. U to E represents the surplus of size more than is re- 
quired when the garment is to be made tight-fitting through the back-waist, 2^ inches for 
this draft. This amount is taken out between 18 and 21, 22 and 23, 24 and 25 in the following 
manner : 

From 18 to 21 is a trifle more than J^ of the above 2}i inches, say 1 inch. 

T to 23 is a trifle less than ^ of the above 2-)4 inches, say 1^^ inch. 

The unlettered circled disk between 24 and 25 is half-way between 21 and 23. 

Now as 1 inch has been taken out between 18 and 21, and 1^4 inch between T and 23, 
the remaining ^ inch of back-waist surplus is divided equally on each side of the unlettered 
circled disk. This gives 24 and 25. 

Point 32 is midway between 22 and 23. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-^ADE GAI</WENTS. 



51 




so 49 

Diagram 6. 



4a D 



52 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Draw a straight line from G through li2 to estabHsh 17, and another from J midway be- 
tween 24 and 25 to establish 19. 

Draw straight guide-lines from G to 22, G to 23, J to 24, and J to 25, and shape the 
seams from the breast-line to the waist-line as represented, taking off about ^4 iiich from the 
underarmpiece above J and reshaping the scye as represented. 

For forms having a flat back the sideback seam and the back-edge of the sidebody may 
both be shaped to 9 on the shoulder seam as on Diagram 5. But for forms that are more round 
on the back above the breast-line, j/2 inch may advantageously be taken out forward of 9 and 
the width of the back increased the same amount as from 8 to 15. The center-of-back 
should also be shaped below A, rounding a trifle backward of a straight line drawn from A 
toE. 

Square downward from V to establish X. 

For forms that are medium fiat at front of abdomen below the waist-line, X to Y is ^ 
inch. (See explanations of Diagrams 15, 16 and 17.) 

Extend the guide-line from 7 through 21 towards 46, and shape the back edge of the 
sidebody below 21 as represented. At ZZ it passes 34 inch backward of the guide-line and 
touches the guide-line at the point where it intersects with the line Al to D. 

On the draft, as so far made, the sidebody overlaps the backpart as from 16 to 33, and in 
order to ascertain what the size of the draft is on the hip-line from Y to the center-of-back at 
2, measure from Y to 33 and then from 16 to 2. 

For this draft Y to ZZ and 16 to 2 measures 19^:4 inches. But as the garment must meas- 
ure between these points >< inch more than one-half of the full hip, or 22^/^ inches, the dif- 
ference of 314 inches is gained by overlapping the parts that amount between 34 and 35, 36 
and Z7 as follows : 

Place about one-half of it, say l^/ inch, divided equally on each side of 17, and the re- 
maining \Y\ inch divided equally on each side of 19. This gives 34 and 35, 36 and 37. 

Shape from 24 through 36 towards 47 parallel with the back edge of the sidebody as 
represented. 

Shape the back edge of the forepart from 22 through 34 towards 48 parallel with the 
back of the underarmpiece as represented. 

Shape the underarmpiece from 23 through 35, containing the curve about 4 inches below 
35. From there square downward by the hip-line towards 50. 

Shape the sidebody from 25 through 37, containing the curve about 4 inches below 37. 
From there square downward by the hip-line towards 49. 

A to L and N to the sweep-line at 51 is the length to top-of-dart, 14>< inches. 

A to L and N to the sweep-line at S is the front-waist length, 22 inches. Connect S and 
T to establish Q. 

O to Z is 3^ inches when the bust is 11 inches larger than the waist, or for regular 
forms only. (See explanations of Diagrams 18 and 19.) 

Bl is directly opposite 51. 

Shape the center-of-front from the neck-point through Bl and Z. When the form is 
medium flat at front of abdomen the center-of-front is continued below Z parallel with the line 
from 12 through S. This establishes W. 

Connect Z and T. 

N to 38 is the same as L to 9. 



IsADIES' TAIIaOH./VlADE GA^^IENTS. 53 



Bl to 51 is 34 inch less than j4 bust, 4^ inches. 

Shape the front edge of the dart from 38 through 51 and 39 towards 43 as represented, 
making from Z to 39 the style width. 

Pivot at 51 and sweep backward from 39. 

From 39 to 40 is approximately 3.4 inch more than Q to Z. The draft, however, should 
be measured from Z to 39, 40 to 22, 23 to 24, 25 to 21 and 18 to E, and should it measure 
more or less than one-half of the full waist, then add to, or take ofif from the width of the 
dart at 40 as may be found to be necessary to secure the size of waist required. 

From 41 to 42 is 34 "''ch less than Y to W. 

Connect 51 and 40 and shape the dart from 51 towards 44 as represented. 

Shape the front edge not more than 1 inch forward of the center-of-front line Bl, and es- 
tablish the end of the roll according to style as at 26. 

Draw the crease-line from 26 towards a point ^ inch forward of the side of the neck. 

Establish points 27 and 28 to style, and shape the rever from 26 to 27 and 28. (See 
explanation of Diagram 53.) 

Trace of¥ and cut out separately the underarmpiece and sidebody, and then the backpart 
from the original draft. Mark the breast-line on each piece, also the sweeps at 21, 25, 24 and 
23, the lengths on line D 50, and leave a margin of paper at the bottom of each piece for 
shaping. 

Place the underarmpiece in closed position with the forepart at the bottom ; the sidebodj- 
in closed position with the underarmpiece at the bottom, and the backpart in closed position 
with the sidebody at the bottom. The several parts should first be placed together at the 
waist sweeps, point 23 touching 22, 25 touching 24, and 18 touching 21, then brought into 
closed positions at the bottoms and secured by weights. Then shape the bottom by a graceful 
curved line securing points 31, 47, 49, 48 and 50. 

Now cut along the back-edge of the bust dart and bring both sides of the dart in closed 
position below the sweeps at 39 and 40. Then shape below S as represented by the broken 
and solid lines to 48. This gives 43 and 44. 

For this draft, the application of the two measures for depth-of-gorge and half size of 
neck, as explained for Diagram 4, makes no change in the position of the neck-point, 12. 

For this draft the sideseam is placed directly below G, or forward of its position, as on 
Diagram 5. It should always be placed thus when the fronts are made tight-fitting with 
but one bust dart to secure less width to the part between 22 and 40. 

Points 17 and 19 are obtained differently than as explained for Diagram 5. The expla- 
nation for this will be apparent by re-reading the explanation for Diagram 5 in regard to 
these two points. 

The quantity between O and Z, given as 3->4 inches, applies only to regular forms 
having a bust 1 1 inches more than waist. For irregular forms see explanations for Dia- 
grams 8, 18 and 19. 



54 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



TIGHT-FITTING COAT 

Two Darts. Regular Form. 

DIAGRAM 7. 

THE measures used for the accompauying diagram are 36 bust, 25 waist, 41 hip, 7 back- 
depth, 15>4 side-waist length, 15 natural-waist length at center-of-back, 40 length, 
6>4 half-back width, 9>^ blade, 11^ front-depth, 15^ over-shoulder, 634 back- 
waist, 141^ top-of-dart, 22 front-waist length. 

TO DRAFT. 

Begin by making the Foundation Draft. (Diagram A.) This gives all the light-centered 
points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram. Then proceed as 
follows : 

Extend the line from A through CI towards D. 

A to D is the length, 40 inches. Square forward from D and shape the center-of-back 
below 2 as represented. 

A to S is the natural-waist at center-of-back, 15 inches. Connect S and T. 

S to 18 is 1-12 bust, Ij^ inch, or to taste or style. Square downward from 18 by the 
line C T. This establishes K. 

K to 16 is 3^2 inch. Draw a straight guide-line from 18 through K, and shape the side- 
back from 18 towards 51 as represented. (See Diagram 6.) 

From 8 to 9 is i/g bust, 2^4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 7 to a point midway between S and 18. This establishes 20. 

Shape the side-back from 9 through 20 to 18 as represented. 

A to L and N to the sweep-line through 38 is the length to top-of-dart, 14^/2 inches. 

A to L and N to the sweep-line through 39 is the front-waist length, 22 inches. (For a 
regular form the measures for depth-of-gorge and half-size of neck are not important for 
coats which do not close at the neck. ) 

Connect T and 39. 

T to U is the back-waist, 634 inches. 

U to V is one-half of full waist, 12^ inches. Square downward by the line T P 
through V to establish X. 

When the form to be fitted is viediiim flat at front of abdomen, then X to Y is ^ inch. 
Connect V and Y. 

From the line V Y to the sweep-line at 40 is 3^ inches when the bust is 11 inches larger 
than the waist. (Variations for large and small waists, or for a greater or less difference 
than 11 inches between bust and wai.st, are explained for Diagrams 8, 18 and 19.) 

Connect 40 and T. 

Bl to 38 is 1/6 bust, 3 inches. Connect 38 and F. 

From 38 to 56 is 3^ bust, 3 inches. 



bADIES* TAIbOR./WAOE GARiViENTS. 



55 




Diagram 7. 



56 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Divide the quantity between P and T into 3 equal parts, and draw straight hues from 38 
and from 56 through these divisions as represented by the broken lines below 38 and 56 ex- 
tending to the hip-line. 

There has now been left on the draft 3^ inches between V and 40, which represents the 
amount of front-waist surplus. This and 34 inch more, or 4 inches in all, must be taken out 
by the darts when the forepart is to be made tight-titting on the waist-line. 

Place about one-third of this, say iy2 inch, divided equally on each side of the divisional 
line below 38. This gives 41 and 42. 

Pivot at 38 and sweep backward from 41 to establish 42, and connect 42 and T. 

The remaining 2^ inches is now divided equally on each side of the divisional line below 
56 as from 43 to 44. Sweep backward from 43, pivoting at 56, to establish 44 and connect 44 
and T. 

U to S is the back-waist surplus, 2^ inches for this draft. 

From 18 to 21 is a trifle more than one-third of the back-waist surplus, say 1 inch. 

Draw a straight line from 7 through 21. This establishes 15 on the hip-line, and Z on 
the line A D. 

From y^ inch forward of 9 shape the sidebody through 20, 21 and ^ inch backward 
of 15 through Z, and reshape the top of the sidebody as represented. 

G to 31 and T to 22 are each ^ inch. Connect 31 and 22. 

From 22 to 23 is a trifle less than one-half of the back-waist surplus, say 1^ inch. Con- 
nect 23 and 31. 

Point 32 is midway between 22 and 23. 

Draw a straight line from 31 through 32, as to the unlettered circled disk on the hip- 
line, and y2 inch backward of it establish 17. 

The unlettered circled disk between 24 and 25 is half-way from 21 to 23. 

There has now been taken out 1 inch between 18 and 21, and \y% inch between 22 and 
23, or 2y^ inches in all. There remains therefore ^ inch more of back-waist surplus to be taken 
out, and this is divided equally on each side of the unlettered disk, as from 24 to 25. 

From 20 to Z2> is y% inch more than half-way from 20 to 31. 

Draw a straight line from 33 midway between 24 and 25, as to the unlettered disk on 
the hip-line, and 34 i^ich forward of it establish 19. 

Connect 24 and 33. Connect 25 and 33. 

Shape the seams below 31 and 33 to the waist-line, and reshape the top of the under- 
armpiece as represented. 

All that part on the hip-line forward of Y excepting 34 inch, is a surplus to be taken out 
by the darts between 45 and 47, 48 and 49. 

W to 45 is 34 inch more than 40 to 41. Draw a straight line from 41 through 45. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 38 and 56 through a point midway between 
42 and 43 to establish 46. 

From 46 to 47 is 3^ inch more than one-half of the width of the part between 42 and 43. 

Draw a straight line from 42 through 47. 

From 46 to 48 is the same as from 46 to 47. 

Draw a straight line from 43 through 48 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GAR^IENTS. 57 

From 48 to 49 is >^ inch less than Y to W, less the amount which has been taken out be- 
tween 45 and 47. 

Shape from 44 through 49 towards 62 as represented. 

Now from Y to the center-of-back at 2 the finished draft must measure J^ inch more 
than one-half of the full hip, 21 inches for this draft. 

For this draft Y to the back-edge of the sidebody just backward of 15 and 16 to 2 meas- 
ures 17^ inches. This is 3^ inches less than the size required. Take about one-half of this, 
say 1% inch, and divide it equally on each side of 17. This gives 34 and 35 each % inch from 
17. The remaining 2 inches is now divided equally on each side of 19. This gives 36 and 37, 
each 1 inch from 19. 

Connect 22 and 34. Connect 23 and 35. Connect 24 and 36. Connect 25 and Z7 . 

Shape first from 24 through 36, rounding backward of the straight line about ^ inch, 
and continuing on the same curve about 4 inches below 36. Frnni there to the bottom the 
line runs parallel with the back edge of the sidebody. 

Next shape from 22 to 34, rounding backward of the straight line about % inch, and 
continuing the same curve about 4 inches below 34. From there to the bottom the line runs 
parallel with the back-edge of the underarmpiece. 

Next shape from 23 to 35, rounding forward of the straight line about Y^ inch, and con- 
tinuing the same curve about 4 inches below 35. From there square downward by the line C T 
to the bottom. 

Next shape from 25 to 37, rounding forward of the straight line about ^ inch, and con- 
tinuing the same curve about 4 inches below 2)7. From there the line runs to the bottom 
parallel with the line from 35 to 54. 

Pivot at 20 and cast a sweep from 18 to 21. 

Pivot at 33 and cast a sweep from 24 to 25. 

Pivot at 31 and cast a sweep from 22 to 23. 

Pivot at Bl and cast a short sweep from 1 inch below 57. 

Make the length from 21 to 50 the same as from 18 to 51. 

From 24 to 52 is the same as 25 to 55. 

From 22 to 53 is the same as 23 to 54. 

Shape the bottom forward of 53 first by a slightly upward curved line into the sweep-line 
backward of 58. This establishes 59 and 61. 

From 42 to 60 is the same as 41 to 59. 

From 44 to 62 is the same as 43 to 61. 

The finish of the forepart is wholly a matter of style. Establish the front-edge and 
end of the roll to taste or style, as from O to 63 and 26. Draw the crease-line from 26 to a 
point y^ inch from the side of the neck, and estabHsh 27 and 28 as explained for Diagram 53. 
Run a tracer along the crease-line and fold the paper which is forward of it underneath the 
draft. Then run the tracer from 26 to 27 and 28. On unfolding the paper the marks of the 
tracer give the light solid line from 26 to 29 and 30. 

Shape the gorge from N to 30. 

Cut out a >^-inch dart and reshape the rever as represented by the heavy lines, advance 
point 30 and the front of the rever the same amount as is taken out by the neck-dart. 

Observe the explanation as given for the preceding diagram with reference to points 
17 and 19. 



58 THE "STANDARD" WOHK ON CUTTING 



CORPULENT FORHS 



DIAGRAM 8. 

BY corpulent form is meant one having a waist less than 1 1 inches smaller than bust. 
The measures used for the accompanying diagram are 40 bust, 32 waist, 48 hip, 7^ 
back-depth, I5j4 side-waist length, 16 natural-waist at center-of-back, 7 half-back 
width, 11 blade, 12 front-depth, 16^ over-shoulder, 7^ back-waist, 14^ top-of-dart, 193^ 
front-waist length, 7j4 half-size of neck, 6 depth of gorge. The form to be fitted is medium 
full in front below the waist-line. 

TO DRAFT. 

All the points excepting E, P, W, 26, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, Y and VI, are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 7. 

For this draft the length of the waist at the center-of-back is greater than the side- 
waist length, as much as S is below E. The front-waist length being short establishes P 
above the line which is squared forward from C. 

C to E is \y2 inch, less yi inch for each inch of corpulency. The waist in this case is 8 
inches smaller than the bust. This is 3 inches less than the difference for a normal or aver- 
age form. From C to E is therefore % inch less than Ij/^ inch, or 1^^ inch. 

T to U is the back-waist. 

U to V is one-half of the full waist. Square downward from V by the line which is 
squared forward from C to establish X. 

U to E is the back-waist surplus which is taken out between 18 and 21, 22 and 23, 24 and 
25, as has been repeatedly explained. 

The line drawn from O through 13, as on the Foundation Draft, represents the center- 
of-front, and A to L and N to P is the front-waist length. 

For this draft from V to P measures 2j4 inches, and whereas the garment might fit 
around the waist if this surplus of 2^ inches is taken out by the darts, yet larger darts and 
some extra size at the bust gives better form. The center-of-front is therefore reshaped 
from the neck-point, 12, through VI, which is 3^ inches forward of V. (This is ^ inch 
less than for a normal form.) This establishes W. Connect VI and T. 

VI to 41 is y(y waist, or to taste or style. 

Establish 38 and 56 as explained for Diagram 7. 

Pivot at 38 and sweep backward from 41. 

From 41 to 42 is about one-third of the quantity between V and VI. Connect 42 and T. 

From 42 to 43 is y waist, or to taste or style. 

Pivot at 56 and sweep backward from 43. 

From 43 to 44 is the same as V to VI, less the amount already taken out between 41 and 
42. 

A straight line drawn from midway between the top of the darts and midway between 
42 and 43 gives 26 and 46. 



feADIES' TAIbOR-^AOE GARMENTS. 



59 




Diagram 8. 



60 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



From W to 45 is Yz inch more than from VI to 41. 

From 46 to 47 is ^ inch more than from 26 to 42. 

From 47 to 48 is ^ inch more than from 42 to 43. 

X to Y is 134 inch when the form is medium full in front below the waist-hne, and Y to 
W represents the front-hip surplus, or ^ inch more than the total amount to be taken out by 
the darts when the foreparts are to be made tight-fitting. From 48 to 49 is therefore ^ inch 
less than Y to W, less the amount already taken out by the first dart from 45 to 47. 

All the remaining points on the hip-line are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 7. 

More padding at the bust will be required than for an average form, because of the extra 
size given to the foreparts forward of I. 

Whenever the garment is less than tight -fitting in front, and is shaped by a small dart, 
then the center-of-front is drawn as on Diagram 20, when the length does not extend below 
the waist-line, and as on Diagram 1 for longer garments with box-fronts, and as on Diagram 
5 when the foreparts are shaped by a small dart. 



THE POSITION OF THE SIDESEAH 



FUR all medium and small sizes the position of the side-seam should be as shown on Dia- 
gram 7, when the fronts are made tight-fitting with two bust darts. For sizes above 
42 bust and when one underarmpiece only is desired, this seam should be placed fur 
ther back, ^ inch or 1 inch as may be necesssary to avoid having the underarmpiece and 
sidebody too broad. 

For the very large sizes this seam should be placed as on Diagram 6, but these should 
have two underarmpieces. (See Diagram 50.) 

When the fronts are made tight-fitting with but a single bust dart, the side-seam 
should be placed as on Diagram 6. 

When a coat is less than tight-fitting at the front-waist, and tight-fitting at the back- 
waist, then the side-seam should be placed as on Diagram 7 for the small and medium sizes, 
but further back for the larger sizes. Care must be taken to so locate this seam as not to 
produce too narrow underarmpieces and sidebodies for slender forms, nor too wide ones for 
stout forms. 

Always avoid wide parts at the front or back-waist, where the part is to be tight-fitting, 
except when it cannot be avoided, as for some styles of Eton Jackets and Shirt-waists. 

If the back-waist is to be tight-fitting and the front-waist less than tight-fitting, than the 
width of the parts through the back-waist should be only sufficiently wide to harmonize with 
the size of the form, remembering that better practical results are obtained in fitting the 
part which is tight-fitting, by narrow, than by wide parts. 



feADIES' TAII90H-/VIA0E GAR/WENTS. 61 



Begin the study of this work at the beginning, not at the middle nor finish. 



62 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT 

The Back and Body. 

DIAGRAM 9. 

THE back and shoulder sections are drafted in the same manner as explained for Dia- 
gram 7. 

Side and center-back plaits are added below the fashionable waist-length at 5 and 6. 
The center-back plait is uniformly 1 inch wide. The side-plait may be ^ inch wide at the 
top, and \y2 inch at the bottom. 

All the remainder of the body part except the lapel is drafted to the hip-line in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 7, except that the width of the part opposite 40 is 
according to taste or style. 

The position of the waist seam is determined by style. On the diagram, E to 5 and 40 
to F are each 2 inches, and T to K is 1 inch. 

From.the waist notch on the sidebody near U to Q is the same as S to 5. 

Cut out the pattern, all except the gorge N to 12; the back whole to the bottom, and all 
the other pieces to the hip-line. 

Lay the underarmpiece in closed position with the forepart touching at the natural and 
fashionable waist lengths. 

Lay the sidebody in closed position with the underarmpiece touching at the natural 
and fashionable waist-lengths, and shape the waist seam from Q to K as represented on 
the lower part of the diagram. This establishes O, R and L. 

Now take the forepart alone, bring the waist notches together and each part in closed 
position below the notches, and finish the fashionable waist-line from K to F. This estab- 
lishes J and H. 

Do not cut the pattern on the fashionable waist-line until the skirt has first been drafted. 

The Lapel. 

Place a piece of paper underneath the pattern of the forepart, mark along the edge from 
the top of the first dart to G, then to F, and up past 12. 

Make a cross-mark as at A. 

Cut out the lapel as thus far defined, notching both forepart and lapel at A. Place the 
lapel in closing position with the forepart above the notches at A, and draw the crease-line 
from opposite the top buttonhole towards a point ^ inch forward of the shoulder-point N. 

Fold the upper part of the lapel on the lapel-crease line underneath the forepart. 
Draw on the forepart the shape of the lapel to style, and mark the same through by a tracing 
wheel on the paper, which is folded underneath, as from the enr" of the roll at 8 to 10 and 
thence to 11. 

On unfolding the paper the upper part of the lapel will be defined by the points 14 and 
1 7. Now shape the gorge from N to 1 7. 

Cut out the pattern and proceed to draft the skirt as explained for the next succeeding 
diagram. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-/WAOE GARMENTS. 



63 




Diagram 9. 



64 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 

FROCK-COAT SKIkT 

Full Drapery. 

DIAGRAM 10. 

TAKE the pattern of the forepart, lay it on another piece of paper, mark along the 
center-of-front and front of the dart to the hip-line, mark point P and run a tracer 
across on the fashionable waist-line from F to G. 

Bring the part H J in closed position below the fashionable waist-line, H touching G. 
Mark along the edge of the paper below I to the hip-line, and run a tracer across from H 
to I. 

Bring point J to touch at I and in closed position below I to the hip-line. Mark along 
the edge of the paper below T. Mark T and run a tracer across from J to K. 

Remove the pattern of the forepart and place the underarmpiece in the position shown 
on the diagram. L touches K and the front edge of the underarmpiece touches the side 
edge of the forepart half-way between T and the hip-line. Mark along the edge of the pat- 
tern from O to the hip-line, and run a tracer across from L to O. 

Lay the sidebody to touch the underarmpiece half-way from the natural waist to the 
hip-line and R at O. Mark along the edge of the pattern from Q to 9. Mark point 20 and 
run a tracer across from R to Q. 

Extend the guide-line from 20 towards 10. This line is the same as the one from 7 
through 21 on Diagram 7. 

Shape the back-edge by a slightly curved line from Q through 9. 

Q to 10 is 34 i'lch more than 6 to M on Diagram 9. 

Add for the plait from Q to 10 the same as has been added on the side of the back from 
6 to M on Diagram 9. 

T to 1 1 is the same as 20 to 10. 

P to 12 is 1 inch more than 20 to 10. 

On this diagram the front of the skirt is shaped below the center-of-front by a straight 
line drawn from P through Z. (Diagram 9.) Sometimes it extends across the lapel as rep- 
resented by the broken lines F to 13. In such case lay the lapel in closed position with the 
forepart from F to P; mark the width to 13 and along the edge of the lapel from F to 13. 

From 12 to 14 is the same as F to 13. 

All short skirts and peplums are drafted in this manner for coats which have narrow 
sidebodies, underarmpieces and front darts. There is no fullness on the top edge of the 
skirt, and this necessitates fullness on the hip-line as shown between the forepart, underarm- 
piece and sidebody. Otherwise the skirt would l)e tight over the round of the hips between 
the waist and hip-line. 

For very long coats a skirt drafted in this manner would have too much draping below 
the hip-line. So that when less drapery is desired, either for long skirts or for skirts of 
medium length, proceed as explained for the succeeding diagram. 

* * * * * * 

For frock-coats which have wide backs and fronts, as blouse frock-coats, the skirt is 
drafted on a principle similar to that employed for dress-skirts as explained for Diagram 12. 



IsADIES' TAIIaOR-iVlAOE GARiVlENTS. 



65 




Diagram 10. 



66 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



FROCKCOAT CLOSE SKIRT 



DIAGRAM 11. 

THIS skirt is intended to fit smoothly over the hips, and to hang below the hips with less 
drapery than the one represented by the preceding diagram. The same hip size is 
maintained as given to the several parts on the hip-line when the body of the coat is 
drafted. Jn such cases additional size must be given on the waist-line to avoid tightness 
over the round of the hips midway between the natural waist and hip-lines. This additional 
waist size may be shrunken to the body of the coat, if soft material is to be used, and then the 
extra size given should not exceed 1 inch between K and L and Yz inch between O and R. 

If, however, a quite close skirt below the hips is desired, and particularly for a very long 
coat, darts are inserted at the waist-seam. Proceed as follows: 

Take the forepart first and obtain the run of the waist-seam from F to K in the same 
manner as explained for the preceding diagram. 

Then place the underarmpiece in closed position with the forepart touching at the fash- 
ionable waist and hip-lines. , 

Pivot at the hip-line and swing the underarmpiece backward, if to be shrunken on to the 
body of the coat, until the round on the front of the underarmpiece and back of the forepart 
touch each other midway between T and the hip-line. 

If a dart is to be taken out swing the underarmpiece until L is 1>4 or 2 inches from K as 
may be required. The smaller the waist in proportion to hip size, the larger the dart should 
be. 

Then mark along the pattern from L and O to the hip-line, mark the hip-line and run the 
tracer across from L to O. 

Now lay the sidebody with R at O and touching the underarmpiece at the hip-line. 

Pivot at the hip-line and swing the sidebody backward until R is one-half of the dis- 
tance from O that L is from K. 

Mark from 20 to 9 ; run the tracer from R to Q and extend the guide-line which is on the 
sidebody from 20 towards 10. 

Finish in the same manner as explained for the preceding diagram. 

The darts terminate 1 inch above the hip-line. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-AlAOE GAH^ENTS. 



67 




Diagram 1], 



68 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



BL0U5E JACKET 



DIAGRAM 12. 

ALL the points not directly explained are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
the preceding diagrams. The backpart is close-fitted by a side-seam and center-back 
seam only. The side waist length and length at the center-of-back are, in this case, 
the same. The fronts close on the center-of-front, but any style desired can be given to the 
foreparts. 

I to 13 is ^ or 1 inch, according to the amount of fullness required, and a straight line 
drawn from O through 13 gives point P. 

C to E is 1^ inch when the bust is 11 or more inches larger than the waist. (See cor- 
pulent forms.) 

A to L and N to 17 is the front- waist length. Connect 17 and T. 

When the jacket is made tight-fitting through the back-waist with but one underarm 
seam, then T to U is ^ inch more than the back-waist measure. 

U to V is one-half of the full waist. Pivot at U and sweep downward from V. 

From 17 to Y is 1 inch, more or less, according to the amount required for a pouch. 

Pivot 1 inch forward of N and sweep backward from Y. This establishes 18. 

Shape from T to Y, passing i/o inch above 18 into the sweep-line as represented. 

The center-of-front may extend from 12 to Y, or, if there is more fullness to be gathered 
or plaited than desired between Y and 18, the fronts may be shaped below 13 to X as rep- 
resented, leaving from 18 to X only the desired amount. 

E to 15 is y^ waist. From 15 to 16 is the same as U to E. Shape above 15 and 16 
through J as represented. 

The standing band collar is drafted as follows: 

Draw a straight line from 12 towards 9. This line follows the neck-gorge for about 
1 inch backward of 12. From 12 to 9 is the same as from 12 to N and L to A. Square 
upward from 9. 

From 9 to 19 is 1 inch. Shape the seam edge from 19 to 12, and square upward by the 
seam edge toward 20. From 19 to 20 is the height desired, say I34 inch. Shape from 20 
to 12 to the style desired. 

The peplum skirt is drafted in the following manner : 

Square the lines A B and A L 

A to C is 5>4 inches. Square backward from C. 

A to B and C to D are each J4 waist. Draw a straight line from D through B. 

From }i inch above B to E is J4 waist. 

Pivot at E and sweep backward from ]/% inch above B towards G ; also from ^ inch 
above D towards F. 

From C, following the sweep-line to F, is ]/> inch more than one-half of the full hip. 

Square forward from F by the line D E. This gives point 1, and establishes G. 

A to J is the same as P to 17 on the upper diagram. 

K is half-way from A to G. Shape from K to J as represented. 

G to H and J to I are each the length desired. 

J to G must not be less than one-half of the full waist. For some sizes it may be more 
than one-half of the full waist, but if so, the fullness is taken out by a dart or shrunk at K. 



IsADIES' TAIfeOR./WADE GAR/WENTS. 



69 




Diagram 12. 



70 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



COAT WITH TWO FRENCH DARTS 



T 



DIAGRAM 13. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are the same as for Diagram 1, except 
that the length to natural waist at center-of-back is 1 5 inches. The form to be fitted 
is medium flat at front of abdomen, and full at side and back hips. 

TO DRAFT. 



Obtain all the points on the back and shoulder sections, which are not herein explained, in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 6. 

This coat is not tight-fitting at the waist in front, as is the one on Diagram 6, therefore 
1 is obtained by squaring downward from Bl. 1 to Z is 1 inch, and the ccnter-of-front is 
drawn through Z. This establishes W. 

Point 3 is at the length of the waist at center-of-back. 

The width of the back opposite 3 is according to style, in this case 1-12 waist, 1 inch. 

Square downward from 3 to establish 15, and from the side of the back to establish 19 
and 20. 

From the top of the back to 17 is 36 inches. Square forward and backward from 17. 

From 15 to 16 is % inch. 

Draw a guide-line from 3, ^ inch forward of 16. This establishes S. 

Shape the center-back seam from 3 through 16 by a slightly curved line through S to 18 
as represented. 

T to 6 is one-half of the back-waist surplus, U to 3. 

Point 7 is half-way from T to 6. 

G to 8 is J^ inch less than T to 7. 

Draw a straight line from 8 through 7. This gives 22. 

The remaining one-half of the back-waist surplus is taken out in 3 equal parts at 2, 4 
and 5. Establish the back-edge of the first side- form one part from the back at 2 ; mark the 
width of the first side-form to tase or style, in tliis case it is % inch more than 1-12 waist, 
Ij/s inch. 

Establish the back edge of the second side- form one part of the back-waist surplus for- 
ward of the front edge of the first side-form at 4, as above explained. 

Establish 9 and 10 at top of the back to style. 

Draw straight lines from }i inch backward of 9 to 2 to establish 11, and from ^4 inch 
backward of 10 to establish 12. 

Shape from 9 through 11 to each side of 2, and from 10 through 12 to each side of 4 as 
represented. 

From 4 to 5 is half-way from 4 to 6. 

From 12 to 14 is half-way from 12 to 8. 

Place the remaining part of the back-waist surplus equally on each side of 5, and shape 
the lines below 8 and 14 to the waist-line as represented. 

P to A is to taste or style. 



bAOIES' TAII9OR--/VIAOE GAH/WENTS. 



71 




Diagram 13. 



72 THE "STANDAKD" WORK ON CUTTING 



A to B is one-third of the amount which is to be taken out by the darts. In this case the 
surplus, V to P, is 3^ inches, and as it is desired that the coat shall be % tight-fitting 
through this part, but 2>4 inches is taken out by the darts, so that from A to B is, say % inch, 
and C to E is 1^ inch. 

B to C is to taste or style. 

N to 41 and 42 is the same as L to 9 and 10. 

Shape the darts from 41 to A and B, and from 42 to C and E as represented. 

Square downward from V to establish X. 

X to Y is as explained for Diagrams 15, 16 and 17, ^ inch for this draft. 

Z to F is ^ inch more than P to A. 

Draw a straight line from A through F towards H. 

Draw a straight line from B towards I parallel with the line A H. 

The width of the tongue across to J is 34 'i^ch more than B to C. 

Draw a straight line from C through J towards K. 

J to M is ^ inch less than C to E. Square downward from M towards O. 

Square downward from the front edge of the first side-form to establish 23. 

From 23 to 24 is 34 inch. Square downward from 24 towards 25 and shape the seam 
below 4 through 24 as represented. 

Shape the back-seam of the first side-form below 2 parallel with the center-back seam. 
This gives 21 and 26. 

The back and first side-form having now been drafted proceed as follows: 

Measure across on the hip-line from Y to 21 and 19 to 16. For this draft the measure- 
ment is 16^ inches. 

This is 434 inches less than one-half of the full hip, which is 21 inches (one-half of 42). 
This and Yz inch more, making 4^ inches in all, is to be added to the hip size by overlapping 
the parts on each side of 23, 28 and 27 in the following manner: 

22 to 27 is 3^ inch. 

About one-half of the above 4^ inches, say 234 inches, to avoid too small a fraction, is 
divided equally, Xy^ inch on each side of 27. This gives 29 and 30. 

One-half of the remainder, or I34 inch, is placed from 24 to 31. 

Now establish 28 half-way from 24 to 30 and divide the remaining I34 inch equally half 
and half on each side of 28. This gives 32 and 33. 

From 26 to 34 is the same as 21 to 31. 

From 34 to 35 is the same as 31 to 32. 

Shape the back edges of the second side-form below 4 through 31 and 34 and of the un- 
derarmpiece below 5 through 32 and 35 as represented. 

Square downward from 29 to establish 36. 

From 36 to 37 is 3^ inch. 

Draw guide-lines from 6 to 29 and from T to 30. 

Shape the underarmpiece from 6 through 29 and 37 as represented. 

Shape the front edge of second side-form below 5 through 33 and towards 39 parallel 
with the front edge of the underarmpiece below 29. 

Shape the sideseam of the forepart from T through 30. Continue the same curvature for 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GARMENTS. 73 



about 4 inches below 30, and from there follow downward towards 40 parallel with the back 
edge of the underarmpiece below 32. 

From 2 to 26 is the same as 2 to 20. 

Q is ^ inch below the line squared across from D. 

Pivot at Bl and sweep backward to establish H. 

Connect H and 26 by a slightly upward curved line to establish 25, 39, 38 and K. 

B to I is the same as A to H. E to O is the same as C to K. 4 to 34 is the same as 4 
to 25. 5 to 35 is the same as 5 to 39, and T to 40 is the same as 6 to 38. 

The line 13 to Q is the center-of-front. 

COAT WITH THREE FRENCH DARTS 



DIAGRAM 14. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are the same as for Diagram 6, ex- 
cept that the length to natural waist at center-of-back is 15 inches, and full length 36 
inches. The form to be fitted is medium flat at front of abdomen, and full at side and 
back hips. 

The front and back are tight-fitting. 

All the parts on the waist-line are of equal width. 

TO DRAFT. 

Obtain all the points on the back and shoulder sections which are not herewith explained, 
in the same manner as explained for Diagram 6. 

A to 3 is the length to natural waist at center-of-back. 

'Between 3 and P there are nine parts, but as that part between P and B is twice the 
width of the remaining parts, between 3 and P is divided into ten equal parts, each one-tenth 
of one-half of the full waist. Take a waist of 25 inches. One-half is 12^/2 inches, and one- 
tenth of 12>4 is 1>4 inch. From 3 to 6, 7 to 8, 9 to 10, 1 1 to 14, 15 to 16, K to J, I to H, and 
F to C are each, therefore, 1^4 inch. P to B is the remaining two-tenths, or 2^^ inches. 

The quantity to be taken out between the parts is obtained as follows : 

T to U is the back-waist, and U to 3 is the back-waist surplus, say 3 inches. One-sixth 
of this, or 3^ inch, is taken out between 6 and 7. And the same amount between 8 and 9, and 
between 10 and 11. The remaining Xy^ inch is taken out one-half or ^ inch between 14 
and 15, and ^ inch between 16 and K. 

U to V is one-half of the full waist. 

V to P is the front-waist surplus, 3->4 inches, and 34 i"ch more, or 4 inches in all are to be 
taken out by the darts. One-third of this, say 1^ inch, is taken out of the middle dart from 
F to H, about y^ inch less than this from B to C, 1 inch, and the remaining 1^ inch from I 
to J. 

Establish points 17, 18 and 19 to style. 

From 14 inch backward of 17 draw a straight line midway between 6 and 7 to establish 20. 



74 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



21. 

20. 



From ^ inch backward of 18 draw a straight hne midway between 8 and 9 to estabhsh 
From ^4 inch backward of 19 draw a straight line midway between 10 and 11 to establish 



Point 23 is half-way from 22 to G. 

Shape the seams below 17, 18, 19, 23 and G to the waist-line as represented. 

Square downward from E to establish 2, and from 6 to establish 1 and M. 

From 2 to 4 is ^ inch. 

Draw a guide-line from 3, }'4 inch forward of 4 to establish 5. (The fuU length is, in 
this case, 36 inches. When the coat is longer or shorter than 36, then a point must be es- 
tablished 36 inches below A on the line which is drawn from 3, % inch forward of 4. ) Shape 
the back from 3 through 4 and 5 as represented. 

Shape the seam below 7 parallel with the center-back seam to the bottom. This gives 29. 

Square downward from 8 by the line E W. This gives ii. 

Draw a straight line from G midway between 16 and K. This gives 30. 

Divide the distance between 30 and ZZ into three equal parts to establish 31 and 32. 

For this draft Y to 29 and 1 to 4 is 3% inches less than one-half of the full hip. This 
and ^ inch more, making 4^4 inches, must be added backward of 30, 31, 32 and 2)?) to secure 
the hip size required, about as follows : Place about one-fourth, say 1 inch from 30 to 34, 1 
inch from 31 to 35, 1]/^, inch from 32 to 36, and the remaining Ij/^ inch from 2)2) to 37. 

Divide the distance from 44 to 49 into three equal parts. This gives 45 and 47. 

Shape the seam from 9 through 37 towards 51 parallel with the line 29 to 52. 

Shape the seam from 11 through 36 towards 50 parallel with the seam from 37 to 51. 

Shape the seam from 15 through 35 towards 48 parallel with the seam 36 to 50. 

Shape from K through 34 towards 46 parallel with the line from 35 to 48. 

Shape the remaining front-edges from 10 through 32 towards 47, from 14 through 31 
towards 45, and from 16 through 30 towards 44 as represented. 

Z to O is ^ inch more than P to B. 

Draw a straight line from B through O. 

O to Q is the same as B to C in this case, because the front-hip surplus, Y to Z, is the 
same as the front- waist surplus, V to P. For the same reason R to S is the same as F to H, 
and 27 to 28 is the same as I to J. 

Draw a straight line from C through Q and then parallel with the line O to 38. 

The quantity between 39 and 46 less the width of the darts R S, and 27, 28, is now to be 
divided into three nearly equal parts, making 41 to 42 one-third, 39 to 40 a trifle less than 
41 to 42, and 43 to 46 as much more. 

N to 24, 25 and 26 is the same as L to 17, 18 and 19. Shape the darts as represented. 
■ From 7 to 52 is the same as 6 to M. 

Pivot at 13 and sweep forward and backward from ^ inch below 53. This establishes 
38. Draw a slightly upward curved line from 52 to 38. This establishes 39, 41, 43, 44, 45, 
47 and 49. 

Make the lengths F to 40 the same as H to 41, I to 42 the same as J to 43, K to 46 the 
same as 16 to 44, 15 to 48 the same as 14 to 45, 11 to 50 the same as 10 to 47, and 9 to 51 
the same as 8 to 49. 

The lines 12, 13, P, Z is the medial line. Any style required can be given to the front. 



feAOIES' TAIIaOK-MAOE GAR/WENTS. 



75 




44 45 47 



Diagram 14. 



76 THE "STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 

FLATNESS AND FULLNESS AT FRONT OF ABDOMEN 



DIAGRAMS 15, 16 AND 17. 

THE contour of the form in front below the waist-line varies according to natural develop- 
ment, and to artificial methods employed. 

It is not possible therefore to give a rule for obtaining the widths of the part in 
troni that will apply alike to all forms. 

Each form must be studied carefully when the measures are taken, and memoranda made 
so that the material may be distributed with approximate accuracy when the pattern is 
drafted. 

The different shapes may be classified as follows : First, Flat. Second, Medium Flat. 
Third, Medium Full. Fourth, Extra Full. 

When the form to be fitted is Hat in front below the waist-line, proceed as follows : 

Diagram 15. — All the points, excepting 26, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 7. 

Draw a straight line from midway between the top of the darts midway between 42 and 
and 43. This gives 26 and 27. 

Q to 32 is Yx inch more than 39 to 40. From Z2 to 34 is the same as 40 to 41. 

From 27 to 35 is the same as from 26 to 42. From 35 to 36 is the same as from 42 to 43. 

From 36 to Z7 is Y\ inch less than X to 32, less the quantity taken out between 34 and 35. 

When the form is medium Hat in front below the waist-line, proceed in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 7 to establish Y, W, 45, 47, 48 and 49. (Diagram 7.) 

When the form is vicdium full in front below the waist-line, proceed as follows: 
Diagram 16.— All the points, excepting 32, 34, Y, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 7. 

Establish 26 and 27 as explained for Diagram 15. 

Q to 32 is }i inch less than 39 to 40. 

From 32 to 34 is ^ inch more than 40 to 41. 

From 27 to 35 is % inch more than from 26 to 42. 

From 35 to 36 is ^ inch more than from 42 to 43. 

X to Y is 1% inch. 

From 36 to 37 is ^ inch less than Y to 32, less the quantity between 34 and 35. 

When the form is extra full in front below the w-aist-line proceed as follows : 
Diagram 17. — All the points, excepting 32, Y, 34, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 7. 

Establish 26 and 27 as explained for Diagram 15. 
Q to 32 is j^ inch less than P to 40. 
From 32 to 34 is ^ inch more than 40 to 41. 
From 27 to 35 is J/^ inch more than from 26 to 42. 
From 35 to 36' is ^ inch more than from 42 to 43. 
X to Y is 1% inch. 



bADIES' TAIbOR-iMAOE GAKA^ENTS. 



77 



From 36 to 37 is >4 inch less than Y to Z2, less the quantity taken out between 34 and 35. 

* V =;: H: * * 

For all coats that are less than tight-fitting in front, Y is established in the same manner 
as when tight-fitting, viz. : -S^ inch forward of X when the form is medium Hat in front 
below the waist line; 1 V4 inch when medium full, and 17^ inch when extra full. 




12 32 



34 35 X 27 3& 3,7 

Diagram 15. 



Q 32 



34 y 35 X 27 3b 37 

Diagram 16. 




232 



y^ 35 X 27 3fc 37 

Diagram 17. 



78 THE "STANOAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



LARGE BUST AND SHALL WAIST 



DIAGRAMS 18 AND 19. 

FOR nearly all the preceding diagrams, the measures used have been for an average form 
having a bust size 1 1 inches larger than waist. And in such cases M^hen the coat is 
to be made tight-fitting in front, then the center-of-front line has been established 
3^ inches forward of V. 

Forms are frequently met with of much greater difference between bust and waist sizes, 
and these require larger bust darts to give requisite length over the prominence of the bust 
from the back of the neck to the waist. 

The measures by which the accompanying diagram is drafted are as follows : 43 bust, 
27, waist, 44 hip, 7-)/8 back-depth, 153/2 side-waist length, 15 natural waist at center-of-back, 
7^ half-back width, 11 blade, 12^ front-depth, 17 over-shoulder, 6J/2 back-waist, 15j^ neck, 
15 top-of-dart, 23 front-waist length, 6 depth of gorge. 

TO DRAFT. 

Diagram 18.— All the points excepting E, Y, W, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36 and 37 are 
obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 7. 

The application of the over-shoulder measure, 17, requires for this draft y^. inch more 
than the quantity between F, 6, 4, R and 14. This Yz inch is added from 6 to E and the 
back shoulder is shaped from L through E. The back shoulder can remain at 6, and the 
front shoulder raised Yz inch above 14, or both shoulders can be raised Ya i^^^* ^^^^^ ^^ P''^" 
ferred. 

A to L and N to 39 is the front-waist length, 

Y corresponds with and is obtained in the same manner as explained for point 2 on 
Diagram 4. 

The amount required for the bust-darts must now be determined, and the center-of- 
front line established in the following manner : 

For a form having a bust 11 inches larger than waist, then from V to the center-of-front 
is 3^ inches. But when the difference is more than 11 inches, then from V to the center-of- 
front is 3^ inches, plus ^ inch for each inch that the difference is more than 11 inches. 

In this case the difference between the bust and waist is 16 inches. This is 5 inches 
more than 11 inches. And from V to the center-of-front must be 3% inches, plus 5 times 
Yi, inch, which is 3^ inches, or 7^4 inches in all. 

For this draft 7^ inches forward of V strikes the sweep-line made at the front-waist 
length directly on the line from O through 13, as at 39, and this line remains as the center- 
of-front. 

From 39 to 28 is ^ waist, or to style. Pivot at 38 and sweep backward from 28. 

From 28 to 29 is about one-third of the front-waist surplus, V to 39, say 2j4 inches. 



feAOIES' TAIbOR./VlADE GAR/WENTS. 



79 



Connect 29 and T. 

From 29 to 30 is J^ waist, or to style. 

Pivot at 56 and sweep backward from 30. 

From 30 to 31 is 14 i"ch more than the remainder of the front-waist surplus, 5% inches. 

The form to be fitted is flat in front below the waist-line, and points 34, 35, 36 and 37 
are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 15. 

Cases will arise when the size required forward of V will fall forward of the line from' 
O through 13 as at W. In such cases draft the pattern as represented on this diagram, with 
the center-of- front on the line from O through 13; take out yi inch more by the darts than 
the quantity between V and 39; prove the size of the pattern on the waist-line by the size 
required, and cut it out, giving to it its style effect and shape at the bottom. Then proceed 
as explained for Diagram 19. 




Diagram 18. 



80 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



LARGE BUST AND SMALL WAIST 

(Concluded.) 



DIAGRAM 19. — Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper ; mark all 
around above the breast-line as from 13 to 4, and along both sides of the tongue. The 
broken lines represent the rest of the pattern as drafted. 

Points 39 and 23 are the same as on Diagram 18. 

From 23 to 5 and from 39 to 6 are each one-half of the quantity lacking in the width of the 
darts, as between 39 and W, on Diagram 17. 

Pivot the pattern at 4 and swing the lower part backward until 23 is at 5. Then mark 
all around it below 4 and up to the top of the second dart. This gives the heavy lines and 
points 24, 40, 37 and 31. Mark point 31. 

Place the pattern in its first position; pivot at 13 and swing the lower part forward until 
39 is at 6. Then mark all around it below 13 and up to the top of the first dart. This gives 
the heavy lines and points 32, 34 and 28 Mark point 28. 

Pivot at the top of the first dart and sweep backward from 28. This establishes 29. 

Pivot at the top of the second dart and sweep forward from 31. This establishes 30. 

From 29 to 35 is the same as from 28 to 34. 

From 30 to 36 is the same as from 31 to 37. 

Finish as represented. The tops of the darts will terminate a trifle higher than as first 
drafted, so as to avoid giving any additional width to the forepart across opposite the tops 
of the darts, as would be the case if they terminated in their first position. 



bADIES' TAII90R = /V1ADE GAHA^ENTS. 



81 




86 8T 

Diagram 19. 



VARIATIONS AT FR0NT=0F-5CYE 



ON all the diagrams in this work the front of the arm-scye is placed 1 inch forward of the 
blade quantity as from G to 10. 

The amount of fullness at the sleeve-head which is gathered or plaited into the scye, 
varies with changes in style. A sleeve with extreme fullness at the top can be better ad- 
justed to a large armhole than to a small one. For which reason, when there is a large 
amount of fullness at the sleeve-head, G to 10 may be as much as Ij/ inch. 

When there is Imt a moderate amount of fullness to the top sleeve-head, a wider back 
and a smaller armhole is preferable to a large armhole and a narrow half-back. In which 
case G to 10 may be j4 inch. 



82 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



ETON JACKET 



DIAGRAM 20. 

ON this diagram is represented a semi-loose-fitting Eton Jacket closing on the center-of- 
front to the neck. 

All the points on and above the breast-line are obtained in the same manner as ex- 
plained for Diagram A, excepting 15, 10. I and 13. Points C, E, U, T and V on the waist- 
line are also obtained the same as for Diagram A. 

E to S is 1^^ inch, or according to style. 

From 13 to P is one-third of the distance from the breast-line to the waist-line. Square 
downward from P by the breast-line. This gives Q. 

Connect S and Q. 

E to W is 3^ waist. 

W to X is 1^ inch, more or less, usually for a loose-fitting backpart, about one-half of 
llie quantity between E and U. 

G to 15 is the same as T to X. Connect 15 and X to establish 17. 

Connect 15 and W and, pivoting at 15, sweep backward from 17 to estabhsh 16. 

P to 18 is 34 bust. Square downward by the breast-line through 18 to establish 19. 

Y to Z is the same as X to W. Connect 18 and Y to establish 20. 

Connect 18 and Z and, pivoting at 18, sweep backward from 20 to establish 21. 

Any style desired maybe given to the front. These jackets are sometimes made to hang 
straight down under the arms and below the brow of the bust. In which case the seam below 
15 and the dart below 18 are both omitted. 



feAOIES' TAIbOR-^ADE GAR/WENTS. 



83 




vy 



T X W 

Diagram 20. 



SINGLE-BREASTED COLLARLESS VEST 



s 



DIAGRAM 21. 

QUARE the lines Al and L, Al and D. 

Al to A is 1-24 bust. 

A to B is tlie back-depth, and to C is y^ inch more than the side-waist length. 
C to D is 5>4 inches. Square forward from B, C and D. 

C to E is 1^ inch, except for corpulent forms, when it is as explained for Diagram 8. 
Connect A and E and shape the center-of-back as represented. 
Al to L is >^ bust. 



84 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



F to G is ^ inch less than the blade. Square downward from G to establish T. 
G to H is 1^ inch more than yi bust. Square upward from H. 
F to I is >^ inch less than one-half of the full size of bust. Connect I and L. 
I to 13 is 54 inch. 
G to 4 is 1/2 inch. 

From 4 to N is the front-depth, less the width of the top of the backpart from A to L. 
Connect N and 4. 

Point 5 is half-way from A to F. Connect N and 5. 
L to 8 and N to 1 1 are each Yz inch less than ^4 bust. 

G to 10 is \y2 inch. Shape the scye as represented, dropping 5^ inch below the breast- 
line. 

E to J is ^ waist. 
• T to U is 34 inch more than the back-waist. 

U to V is >4 inch less than one-half of the full-waist. (All the measures are taken in the 
same manner as for a coat.) 

Square downward from V to establish X. 

Take the width of the backpart from A to L and, placing- it at N, sweep for the opening 
as at 14, the top of the dart at 15, the front- waist length as at 16, and the front length at 
W. Connect 16 and T. 

V to the sweep-line at 17 is 3;^ inches when the bust is 11 inches larger than the 
waist. (See explanations for Diagram 18.) 

Shape the center-of-front from 12 as represented by the light solid line, through 17 to 
S, and the edge from N through 14. Below 14 it is shaped I/2 inch forward of the center- 
of-front and to W as represented. 

J to K is the same as E to U. Shape from M to J, and from M to K as represented. 
Below K the side-seam springs out sharply towards 21. 
K to 21 is 114 inch. 

From the center-of-front to 15 is 14 bust, and from 17 to 19 is the same. 
Make the dart from 18 to 20 '4 '"ch more than V to 17, and divide it equally on each 
side of 19. Connect 15 and 18. Connect 15 and 20. 

S to 22 is Yx inch more than from 17 to 18, and X to Y is 5^8 inch when the form is 
medium flat in front below the waist-line. (See explanations for Diagrams 15. 16 and 17.) 
Connect 18 and 22. 

From 22 to 24 is Y^ inch less than Y to S. Connect 20 and 24. 

Shape the dart as represented ; cut the back-edge of the dart and bring from 20 to 24 
in closed position with the front of the dart from 18 to 22. Shape tlie bottom from 21 
to W. This gives 23 and 25. Finish as represented. 



bADIES* TAll90R=^\ADE GAR/WENTS. 



85 




Q S 22 y X 24 



Diagram 21. 



86 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN CLOAK WITH YOKE 



T 



DIAGBLA.M 22. 

HIS cloak has a circular yoke that is usually concealed by a flaring, rippled coUarete. 
The front edges at the neck K and at the front O S meet flush, and are closed 
with hooks and loops. 



TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A H. 
A to D is ^ inch. Square each way from D. 

D to B is 34 bust. Pivot at A and sweep from B. This establishes C. 
C to K is 3/2 inch. Shape the neck of the yoke from B to K as represented. 
B to I is 34 bust. Pivot at D and sweep from L This establishes E and J. 
I to L is 34 ii^ch more than 1-16 bust. 
J to M is 1-16 bust. This completes the yoke. 
E to F is ^ inch more than 34 bust. F to G is 34 bust. 
Pivot at D and sweep forward and backward from F and from G. 

F to N and F to O are each approximately 1 inch more than 34 bust. Connect N and O. 
Readjust the length from E to N, making it the same as E to L, and that from E to O, 
making it the same as E to M. 

G to P and G to Q are each 7^ bust. 

Draw straight lines from N through P, and from O through Q. 

B to L and N to R is round length. 

Pivot at D and sweep forward from R. This establishes H and S. 

R to T is 2 inches or more for train. Reshape from H to T as represented. 



bADIES' TAII9OR-/VIAOE GAR/WENTS. 



87 




Diagram 22. 



88 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



TWO=DART CIRCULAR 



DIAGRAM 23. 

ALL the points excepting U, V, W, X and Y are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 49, excepting that the darts from jM to P and from Q to S are each ]/& and 
1-16 bust. 
The broken line from K to L corresponds with the line A D on Diagram 24. 
K to V is the length to natural waist. 

V to X is 1>4 inch. 

The center-back seam may be shaped on the line from K through X and L, or on a 
fold of the material on a straight line from K to L as desired. 

Extend the straight line upward above K and draw one from the center-of-front untd 
it intersects the line above K as at W. 

Y is 5^4 inches below V. 

Pivot at W and sweep forward from Y and from the length at L. 
This establishes U. 
The line T to U is the medial line. 

On the hip-line this cloak will measure about 12 inches more than one-half of the full 
hip. 



IsADIES' TAlbOR./VlAOE GARiWENTS. 



89 



W, 




Diagram 23. 



90 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



TWO=PIECE CIRCULAR 



DIAGRAM 24. 

OBTAIN all the points excepting 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 14, B, C, H and Z in the same 
manner as for any other style of coat, excepting that the shoulder seam is drafted 
high, as from L to 3. 

Point 12 is obtained in the same manner as any coat which closes at the throat. 

Point 3 is half-way from 12 to 13. 

The center-of-back, back and front shoulder, neck and center-of-front thus drafted are 
represented in broken lines. 

The draft is then enlarged and completed in the following manner: 

Draw a guide-line from E 34 inch forward of 2, and shape the center-back seam >< inch 
outside of the broken lines, A, E, H. 

Add j4 inch above A to L, and ^ inch above L to 8. 

J to 1 is 3^ bust. 

Square across from 1 to establish 4. 

Erom 1 to B and from 4 to C are each >4 of the size of the armhole. This for a 16-inch 
armhole gives 4 inches from 1 to B, and the same amount from 4 to C. 

Square downward from G. This establishes T and Z. 

Erom Z to 5 is J/^ hip. 

Shape from ^4 i"ch above L past 8, through B and 5 to the bottom as represented. 

Point 6 is 54 inch above the line D Q. 

Add above N and 1 1 ^4 inch, and fill in the neck ^4 inch. 

Shape the center-of-front from ^ inch and forward of 12, 13 and Q as represented. 

Erom the back-center just backward of 2 to 5 and Y to 7 is one-half of the full hip. 

Erom 7 to 9 is 54 hip. 

Shape from the front shoulder point through C and 9 to the bottom at 14 as represented. 

Shape the bottom from 14 }i inch below Q as represented, having first observed that 
the length N to 14 is the same as L to 6. 

To obtain the run of the side-seam of the forepart to 14, trace off and cut out the pat- 
tern of the backpart. Turn it over, bottom side up, and lay it on the forepart with the side- 
seam of the backpart touching at C and 9, and the bust lines one over the other. Then mark 
from C through 9 to 14. 

This draft is for a cloak 36 bust and 42 hip, and gives 46 inches around the bottom 
from 14 to the center-of-front. It can be made larger or smaller by enlarging or reducing the 
quantity between Z and 5 and between 7 and 9 each in equal proportions. The full size on the 
hipe line from 2 to 5 and Y to 9 should not be less than 4 inches more than one-half of the full 
hip. On the diagram this is 7 inches more. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./yiADE GAH/WENTS. 



91 




Diagram 24. 



92 THE *'STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 



" Perfection is to be attained by slow degrees. She requires the hand of time." 

Voltaire. 



bADIES' TAII9OH-/WAOE GARMENTS. 93 



PART III 

SLEEVES 



94 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN TWO-PIECE SLEEVE 



DIAGRAMS 25 AND 26. 

THE sleeve represented on the accompanying diagrams is drafted from the following 
measures : 

16 scye, 18 length, 

8y2 underarm-scye, 9>^ cuff, 

7y2 to bend-of-arm, ' 123/i elbow. 

The scye is obtained by measuring from S past B following the edge of the scye as rep- 
resented by the broken line, through U to T. 

Establish U yi oi the full scye above the breast-line. In this case it is 4 inches. To ob- 
tain the second measure, measure from B following the edge of the scye (on the broken line) 

toU. 

Diagram 25. — Fold a piece of paper, thus forming a crease-line. Open out the fold and 
lay the paper Avith the hollow of the crease on the under side. The heavy line from E to 
Z represents the crease-line. 

Make a point, as at B. B to 1 is 12 inches. From 1 to 2 is i^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from 2 through B. 

B to C is 1% inch. Square forward and backward by the line B2 from C. 

C to A is the scye 16, on the divisions of Fourths, 4 inches in all. Square backward 
from A by the line A2. 

A to G is the scye 16, on the divisions of Halves, 8 inches. F is half-way from A to G. 

Square upward from F. 

F to I is the scye 16, on the divisions of Twelfths, full \].i inch. G to H is the scye on 

the divisions of Sixteenths, 1 inch. 

C to D is the length to bend-of-arm, 7>4 inches, and on to E is the length, 18 inches. 

Square backward from D. D to O is 2 inches. 

Connect O and E and square backward by this line from O. 

O to J is one-half of the full size at- elbow, 6^ inches. 

Pivot at G and sweep backward from E. 

E to M is one-half of the full size at cuff, -^ji inches. 

J to K and J to L are each 1 inch. 

Connect H and K. Connect K and M. Connect L and M. 

Shape the bottom from E to ^ inch below M as represented. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart in the position shown on the diagram. The bust line is 
directly over the line which is squared across from C, and the front-gf-scye is on the crease- 
line. 

Mark along the scye from B towards S, and from B to the side-seam at 3. 

Lay the underarmpiece to touch 3 and the bust line directly over the line which is 
squared across from C. Mark to 4. 

Lay the sidebody to touch 4 in the position shown. IMark past 7 and establish the back- 
scye notch about 1 ^ inch above the bust line as at 7. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-ZVlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



95 



r- ^ 



(«)"^^ 




Diagram 25. 



96 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



Shape the sleevehead from I to B through 6 which is % inch from the front-of-scye, as 
represented. 

Shape the undersleeve from B to just above 4, passing ^ inch above the bottom of the 
scye. 

From B, following the heavy line through P to N, is ^ inch more than the underarm 
scye, 934 inches in all. Shape from N to B, as represented by the light and heavy lines. 

Connect N and L. 

B to P, following the heavy line, is -/^ inch more than from B past 3 and 4 to the notch at 
7. Connect P and L. 

From 9 to Q is the same as 8 to P. Connect Q and K. 

M past K to Q is ^ inch more than from M past L to P. 

Finish the sleevehead from Q to I. Shape from Q through K to M, and P through L 
to M as represented. 

Point Q represents the width of the top-sleeve when the smallest amount of fullness 
necessary is desired in the top-sleeve. 

For a sleevehead with a trifle more fullness and in all cases when a very full top- 
sleeve is required, omit points H and Q, and proceed as follows: 

Connect G and K. 

From 10 to R is the same as 8 to P. 

Shape from R to I and from R to M as represented, and make M to R ->4 inch longer 
than M to P. 

Fold the paper on the crease-line E Z and cut through both thickness from Q or R as the 
case may be, through I and 6 to B ; from Q or R through K to the bottom and across the 
bottom to E. 

Again opening out the pattern cut singly from B to P and from P past L to the bottom. 

Make a notch at B. 



Diagram 26. — The pattern will now appear as outlined by points R, B, P, Q, E and M. 

To place the forearm-seam somewhat under the arm instead of at the center-of-front, 
proceed as follows: 

Fold the paper on a line as from 2 to 3, which is ^ inch from B and 1 inch from E. 

Point 1 is opposite D on the preceding diagram. 

From 1 to T is 2 inches. Connect 2, T and 3. 

Shape the forearm-seam as represented, and cut through both thicknesses of paper 
from 2 through T to 3. 

From 3 to V is 14 inch. The top-sleeve must be stretched at T as much as it has been 
shortened from 3 to V. It will be observed that from R to M is -)4 inch longer tlian from 
P to M. This extra length nuist he put on full lo the undersleeve at the elbow. 



SADIES' TAII9OR-/VIAOE GAH/WENTS. 



97 




98 THE "STANDAHO" WOHK ON CUTTING 



I 



ENLARGED TOP-SLEEVES 



DIAGRAMS 27 AND 28. 

A PLAIN sleeve may be enlarged to any current style. 
Diagram 27. — On this diagram the width of the top-sleeve is the same as the 
plain sleeve, but with some added height. The plain top-sleeve, which has been drafted 
as explained for Diagrams 25 and 26, is represented by the heavy lines below 2 and R, and 
the light line from R to the front-scye notch. 

Before cutting out the pattern, as heretofore explained, draw a straight line from R 
to the notch. 

Point 3 is half-way from R to the notch. 

Pivot at 3 ; sweep from the notch to R. and shape the round of the sleevehead as rep- 
resented by the heavy line. Between 1 and the notch it is shaped midway between the 
sweep-line and the line for the plain sleevehead. 

]\Iore or less height, as required, may be given by raising or dropping the sweeping- 
point above or below 3. 

The undersleeve is not changed. 

Diagram 28. — On this diagram two top-sleeves are represented, each having both 
added widths and heights. 

The amount to be added is altogether a matter of style. For a small enlargement pro- 
ceed as follows : When a sleeve has been drafted in all respects in the same manner as ex- 
plained for Diagrams 25 and 26, but before cutting out, sweep backward from R, pivoting 
at the elbow on the backarm seam. 

From the scye-notch to 5 is three-fourths of the full scye. This for a scye measuring 16 
inches is 12 inches. Connect 5 and the notch. 

Point 3 is half-way from the notch to 5. 

Pivot at 3; sweep from the notch to 5, and shape from 5 to the notch as represented. 
Between 1 and the notch it is shaped midway between the sweep-line and the line of the plain 
sleevehead. 

For greater enlargement make from the notch to 6 the full size of the scye. Connect 6 
and the notch, and establish 4 half-way between. Pivot at 4; sweep from the notch to 6, and 
finish as represented. 

If less height is desired drop the sweeping-point below 4, and raise it to gain more height. 

These top-sleeves may be increased to any width desired by extending the sweep-line from 
R past 6, finding a central point between the notch and the extreme width desired, and 
sweeping from the notch as before. For a very wide top-sleeve the sweep-line from the 
notch may fall inside of the plain sleevehead. In which case the sleeve should be shaped 
above the notch on the line of the plain sleevehead. 

UOFC. 



bADIES' TAII9OR--/VIAOE GAH/WENTS. 



99 




Diagram 27. 



Diagram 28. 



100 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



DART SLEEVES 



DIAGRAM 29. 

THE fullness in the top-sleevehead is sometimes taken out by darts. The sleeve is drafted 
with more or less increased height and width at the sleevehead to give room over the 
point of the shoulder, and secure the style effect desired. 

Before cutting the enlarged top-sleeve, establish 3 half-way between the notch and E. 

Square upward from E to establish A. 

Measure the top-scye of the coat (see Diagram 25) from the notch at B to S, and 
from T to the back-scye notch at 7. This we will suppose measures 9 inches. 

Now measure the sleevehead from the notch around through I to E. This we will 
call 16 inches. The difiference between these two is 7 inches, and is the amount to be taken 
out by the darts. On this diagram it is taken by five darts as follows : 

From 1 to 2 is 1-5 of 7 inches, say 1^ inch, distributed eciually on each side of A. Con- 
nect 1 and E. Connect 2 and the notch. 

Divide the distances between 1 and E and 2 and. the notch each into three equal parts. 
This gives B, C, D and F. 

Draw straight lines from 3 through each of these points to establish G, H, J and K, and 
make the remaining darts the same width as from 1 to 2. 

The top of the sleevehead between the darts should be shaped as represented by the 
solid lines. The undersleeve is not changed. 

For four darts, from the notch to the first dart is 1-5 of the top-scye of the coat, 
(i of 9=1 f.) Each dart is ^4 of the full amount to be taken out (^ of 7=1%). Each 
of the parts between the darts is the same as from the notch to the first dart. 



MEDIUM FULL LEG-O'-MUTTON SLEEVE 



DIAGRAM 30. 

THIS sleeve is made of one-piece, and it is desired that it shall be the same size at the 
elbow and cufif as a plain close sleeve. 

Take a tw^o-piece sleeve pattern which has been drafted to the desired size at elbow 
and cuff as explained for Diagrams 25 and 26, and lay them over another piece of paper 
touching each other at the elbow and cuff. 

Mark from U a short distance upward over the round of the sleevehead, and mark 
the notch. Mark from U to P and O. Mark from V to W, X and Q. 
Connect the scye-notch and V. 
Y is half-way from the notch to V. 
Pivot at Y; sweep from the notch to V, and finish as represented. 



bADIES' TAIbOI^-AlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



101 




Diagram 29. 



Diagram 30. 



102 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 




BELL OR WINQ SLEEVE 



DIAGRAM 31. 

A PLAIN sleeve drafted as explained 
for Diagrams 25 and 26, having the 
back-seam at H and N at the top is 
represented on this diagram. Points B, E, 
H and N are therefore obtained in the same 
manner as for Diagram 25. 

B to 1 and E to 2 are each V/i inch. 
When cutting out the pattern, leave about 
1 inch of paper on the top part from H to 
the elbow as represented on the diagram. 
Cut through on the line from 1 to 2. 



DIAGRAM 32. 

Paste the parts together as shown on this diagram, to touch at H and at the elbow, and 
make a mark near the middle of the round of the top part as at 5. 

DIAGRAM 33. 

Draw a straight line as C D. 

Lay the pattern (Diagram 32) with the round of the sleevehead touching the line C D, 
in the position shown by the shaded part on the diagram. 

Make a cross-mark at 5. 

Letting the round of the sleeve head follow along the line C D, gradually raise point 1 
until it is about 1 inch above the line C D, as at F. Place a weight on the pattern and make 
a cross-mark at the notch, which gives E. 

Mark along the edge of the pattern from the notch to 1. This establishes F. 

Mark along the edge of the pattern from 1 towards 2. This gives the line F G. 

F to G is the underarm length for the wing sleeve. 

Lay the pattern (Diagram 32) again in the position shown by the shaded part, and 
gradually raise point 3, letting the top of the sleevehead follow along the straight line C D, 
until 3 is as much above D as F is above C. This establishes H. 

Mark along the upper edge of the sleevehead to H. 

K is half-way between C and D. 

Square upward and downward from K. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOF. GAH^IENTS. 



103 



K to L is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the top of the sleeve from the notch through L as represented. 
Extend the hne F G to estabhsh M, and pivoting at M, sweep from G to N. 
Cut the paper from F through L to H, and make a notch at E. 

Fold the paper on the line L N, observing that H is directly underneath F, and cut 
through both thicknesses from F to G and from G to N. 
F to G seams on to H to P. 
It should be observed that the top of the sleeve is made plain, having the same amount of 




Diagrams 31, 32 and 33. 



104 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



fullness as is given to a plain sleeve. These sleeves are sometimes made with more fullness 
at the top. Additional fuUness may be obtained as follows: 

Establish two points as represented by the two small stars on the line C D, placing them 
as far apart as required for the extra fullness at the sleevehead. Lay point 5 at the star at 
the left and swing the pattern from there to establish F, as previously explained, and then 
lay the same point at the star at the right, and swing to establish H. 

THE RAGLAN SLEEVE 



DIAGRAMS 34 AND 35. 

THE raglan body is drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagram 1. Having 
first made the draft with the usual shoulder seam, measure the arm-scye as for an or- 
dinary sleeve from 1 1 past B and the side-seam at 3 and upward to 8. This meas- 
ures, say 16^ inches. 

From the bust-line to U on the back-scye is one-fourth of the full scye, 4^ inches. 

Shape the raglan shoulder from L to the back-scye at the notch R, which is 1^ inch 
above the breast-line. 

N to 17 is 5^ inch, more or less. 

Shape the front shoulder from 17 to the front-scye notch B as represented. The 
raglan shoulder is represented by the crossed light solid lines. 

Now measure the scye from the front-notch B, following the broken line through 3 to 
U. This measures, say 9 inches. 

Cut out thebackpart and forepart on the lines for an ordinary shoulder; (L to 8 and 
N to 1 1 . ) and proceed to draft the sleeve. 

The measures used are as follows: 16^ scye, 9 underarm scye (B to U), 7>^ to bend- 
of-arm, 18 length, 10 cuff, 13 elbow. 

TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 

Diagram 34. — Fold paper lengthwise, thus forming a crease-line, which is represented 
by the line E X. Open out the fold and lay the paper with the hollow of the crease under- 
neath. 

Establish B on the crease-line. 

B to C is lj4 inch, or the same as from the breast-line to the notch at front-of-scye. 

B to G is 12 inches. 

G to 5 is y^ inch. Draw a straight line from 5 upward through B. 

C to A is >4 of the full scye, Ay% inches. Square backward from A. 

Square forward and backward from C. 

A to F is ^ inch less than i^ of the full scye, 7y^, inches. 

C to D is the length to bend-of-arm, 7>< inches, and on to E is the full length, 18 
inches. Square backward from D. 

D to O is 1 >^ inch. Square backward from O by the line O E. 

O to J is one-half of the size at elbow, 6>4 inches. 



bADIES' TAII9OR.-/VIAOE GAR/WENTS. 



105 




Diagram 34. 



Diagram 35. 



106 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Pivot at F and sweep backward from E. 

E to M is one-half of the size at cuft", 5 inches. 

J to V and J to W are each 1 inch. Connect F and W. Connect W and M. 

Eay the pattern of the forepart in the position shown in broken hnes. The breast-line is 
directly over the line which is squared forward and backward from C, and the notch at front- 
of-scye is on the crease-line E X. Mark lightly along the scye from B toward 1 1 and from B 
to the side-seam at 3. Mark point N and remove the pattern. 

Draw a straight line from B through N. N to K is lYz inches. 

Pivot at B and sweep backward from K. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart, breast-line on breast-line and the side-seam touching 
the forepart at 3 in the position shown in broken lines. Mark from 3 past the notch, and 
mark the notch at R, about 1^ inch above the breast-line. 

Begin shaping the underarm from B, passing % inch above the bottom of the scye to 
about midway between 3 and R. 

From B, following the heavy line past 3, and from there to H, is ^ inch more than the 
measure of the underarm scye, 9^ inches in all. Finish the run of the under sleeve from H 
to B as represented. 

From B, following the heavy line to 6, is % inch more than from B following the 
broken line through 3 to the notch at R. Connect 6 and V. Connect V and M. 

From 1 towards 9 is the same as 6 to 2. M to 9 is ^ inch more than M to 6. 

Shape from 6 to V and M, from 9 to W and M, and the bottom from Yz inch below M 
to E as represented. 

Draw a straight line on the pattern of the backpart from R through L. 

L to Q is 1^ inch. 

From 9 to the sweep-line from K, as at I, is the same as R to Q. Connect I and 9. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart with the line R L directly over the line from I to 9, and 
point L at L Mark along the shoulder-seam from L to 8 and run a tracer along the line of 
the raglan shoulder. This gives the circled light solid line below I and the heavy line from 
I through T to about F. Below F it is rounded to 9 as represented. The position of the 
backpart is shown in circled light solid lines. 

Now lay the pattern of the forepart in the position shown by the circled light solid lines. 
The shoulder-seam touches the circled light solid line of the backpart below I, and point 
N is at I. 

Mark from N to 17. This gives P. Run a tracer along the line of the raglan shoulder 
as represented by the heavy line from P to near S. Remove the pattern of the forepart and 
shape from P to B, passing about I/2 inch backward of the broken line B to 11, as at 12, as 
represented by the heavy line. U to S and I to T are each about 4 i^iches. 

Fold the pattern on the crease-line E X and cut through both thicknesses of paper from 1 
to M and E. Run a tracer through both thicknesses of paper from 9 to I, P and B. Open 
out the fold and cut singly from 6 to M and from 6 to B. The pattern will then appear as 
shown on Diagram 26, excepting the oval-shaped sleevehead. Establish the forearm- 
seam in the same manner as explained for Diagram 26, excepting that it is hollowed \y2 
inch at the bend-of-arm opposite D. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GA^i^ENTS.^ 107 



Diagram 35. — The upper part of the top-sleeve, as thus far drafted, is represented by 
points 7, P, I and 9. 

From P to 3 is the same as from N to 1 1 on the preceding diagram. 

Draw a straight line across, as from 1 to 2, and establish 3 half-way between 

Pivot at 3 and sweep forward from P and backward from I. 

P to 4 and I to 5 are each 1^ inch. 

Place paper underneath and trace from P past 1 and from I past 2. Mark 1, 2, S, 
and T. 

Cut out the piece as traced and lay it on the draft, and pivoting it at 1, swing P over 
to 4. Mark along the edge from 1 to 4, half way across from P to I, and from there to 3 
as represented by the heavy line. 

Now pivot the small piece at 2 and swing I over to 5. Mark along the edge from 2 to 5 ; 
half-way across from I to P, and from there to 3 as represented by the heavy lines. 

The purpose of this dart is to gain additional ease over the point of the shoulder. 



108 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



BISHOP SLEEVE 



DIAGRAMS 36 AND ZT . 

DIAGRAM 36. — AH the jaoints, excepting O and K, are obtained in the same manner as 
explained for Diagram 25. 
D to O is 1 inch. 
Draw a straight hne from H towards K, passing as much backward of J as required to 
secure the desired size at the elbow and bottom. 

Shape the bottom from E, passing y^ inch below M, and by a reverse curved line to es- 
tablish K. 

Fold the pattern on the first crease-line and run a tracer from H to K, and from J to M. 
Cut out the pattern on the double from E to K and from H through I and 6 to B. Notch 
at B. Cut also on the double from about an inch backward of H and K. 

Open out the fold and cut singly from B through 5 to N and N to K. 

The pattern will now be as defined by points H, B, N, K, M, E, M and K on Diagram Z7 . 

Diagram 37. — B to 1 is ^ inch. 

E to 2 is 1^ inch. Connect 1 and 2. 

Run a tracer from 1 to 2 and fold the under part of the sleeve over on the upper part. 

Cut through both thicknesses of paper from 1 to 2, hollowing at the bend-of-arm the 
same amount as from D to O on Diagram 36. The under sleeve is represented by the part 
which is shaded. 

Now paste the under part to the upper part with tlie line N K to the line H K, thus bring- 
ing the pattern into one piece. 

The fullness between M and K on the upper and under parts can be left free or plaited 
to the size of a band or cuff, or taken away by a dart as style may determine. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GARAIENTS. 



109 




Diagram 37. 



Diagram 36. 



no THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



FOREPART, BACKPART AND TOP-SLEEVE IN ONE OR TWO PIECES 



DIAGRAM 38. 

THE peculiarity of this sleeve is that the front and back yokes are made continuous 
with the sleeve, there being no seam as from F to Q and 9 to P. 

For all coats of this character, there should be a front and back yoke, which may be 
shaped in any desired style. Sometimes the yoke seam is continued across the sleeve in any 
desired shape between F and 9, as shown in a light dotted line. The back shoulder seam 
should first be drafted about 1 inch higher at point 8, and the front shoulder reduced the 
same amount below 11. (Diagram A.) 

TO DRAFT. 

Points A, B, C, D, E, H, J, M, N, star, 1, 3, 6, 7, and 9 are obtained in the same man- 
ner as explained for Diagrams 25 and 26, after which proceed as follows: 

F to G is one-half of the full scye, instead of A to G. 

Establish F about Yz inch above the notch at B. 

Shape the yoke to style as from F to 4 and obtain points 7 and 6. 

Shape the yoke as from 7 to 5. 

H is 1-16 of the full scye forward of G and represents what would be the width of a nar- 
row top sleeve, and N is the top of a wide under-sleeve. 

Draw straight lines from H ^ inch backward of J and from N J/2 inch forward of J. 

Pivot at J and sweep backward from 6. 

Shape the under-sleeve from 6 past J to M as represented. 

Add the amount taken ofif from the under-sleeve as from 6 to R, to the top-sleeve as from 
R to 9, and shape from 9 past J to M as represented. This transfers the backarm-seam from 
from H and N to 6 and 9. M to 9 is ^ inch more than M to 6. 

Cut out the pattern for the forepart and backpart of the coat all except on the yoke 
seam, 4 to F and 7 to 5. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart with the side of the yoke 7, at 9, and swing point 8 up 
until the outer shoulder point near P is 1-12 of the full scye above the line A G. The position 
of the back yoke is shown in heavy lines from 9 past 8 to K, and in light circled lines from 9 
towards P and up to K. Mark all around the yoke and run a tracer across the yoke seam. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart with the front scye notch at B. Hold it at B and swing 
the pattern until the outer shoulder point near Q is level with the outer back shoulder near 
P. The position of the forepart is shown in heavy lines forward of F to L, and in light 
circled lines from F past Q and up to L. Mark all around the yoke and run a tracer across 
on the line of the yoke seam. 

Connect K and L. 

O is half-way between K and L. Square downward from O. 

The distance between the two outer shoulder points is now divided equally on each side of 
the line squared downward from O. This establishes P and Q. 

Shape from K through P and L through Q, the two lines meeting each other just above 
the bust-line as represented. 



bADIES' TAIIaOF^./VlADE GAR^IENTS. 



Ill 




Diagram 38. 



112 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Now cut the front and back yoke pieces from the pattern of the coat as there is no 
further use for them, they having been transferred to the upper and under sleeves. 
C to S and C to T are each ^ inch. 
E to W and E to X are each 1^ inch. 

Point 2 is 15^ inch from D, and from 2 to J is one-half of the size required at the elbow. 
U is the same distance backward of a straight line drawn from T to W as 2 is from D. 

V is the same distance backward of a straight line drawn from S to X as 2 is from D. 
Shape the forearm-seam of the under-sleeve from S through V to X as represented. 
Pivot at 2 and sweep forward from S to establish T. 

Pivot at 2 and sweep forward from X to establish W. 

Shape the forearm-seam of the upper sleeve from B to T and T through U to W as rep- 
resented. 

Y is half-way from 2 to J and Z half-way from E to M. 

The seam below K and L is sometimes continued to the bottom through Y to Z. 

The under-sleeve should be traced off on another piece of paper from 6 to S, V, X, M, 
and 6. 

For sleeves of the Bishop order the under-sleeve may be cut whole with the upper sleeve 
and the seam, omitted below 9 as shown by the position of the under-sleeve in dotted lines 
laid against the upper sleeve touching each other at 9 and at the elbow or a trifle backward 
of the elbow if onlv a small enlargement is desired at tlie elbow and hand. In such case, how- 
ever, M to 9 must be made the same as M to 6 



Note. 

For a high shoulder seam, see explanation of i)()int 3 on Diagram 24. 

This may be applied to any garment whenever a high shoulder seam is desired. 



bADIES' TAII9OR-/VIAOE GAK/VIENTS. 113 



PART IV 

Inverness, Capes, Style Effects, Etc. 



114 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



THE INVERNESS 



T 



DIAGRAM 39. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 34 bust, 24 waist, 38 hip, 6% back- 
scye depth, 15^ natural waist level with side- waist length, 57 length, 634 half-back 
width, 9)4 blade, 11 front-scye depth, 15 over-shoulder, 5}i back-waist, I31/2 neck. 

At front of abdomen the form is medium flat. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square the lines Al and D, Al and K. A 1 to A is 1-24 bust. 

A to B is the back-scye depth. A to C is y:^ inch more than the natural waist level with 
the side-waist length. A to D is the length. 

C to CI is 5^ inches. A to 6 is 36 inches. Square across from B, C, CI, 6 and D. 

C to E is 1^ inch. (See Corpulent Forms.) CI to 1 is ^ inch. Connect A and E to 
establish F. 

Al to L is i/^ bust. A to K is the half-back width. 

F to J is the same as A to K. Connect J and K. 

F to G is ^ inch more than the blade. Square downward froni'G to establish T. 

G to H is 1^ inch more than % bust. Square upward from H. 

F to I is one-half of the full bust. I to 13 is 1 inch. Connect L and I. 

Square downward from J to establish M. 

M to 2 is 13/2 inch. Draw a straight line from J through 2 to establish 4 and shape the 
seam from 8 through J, 2 and 4 to 7 as represented. 

T to U is ^ inch more than the back-waist. 

U to V is ^ inch more than one-half of the full waist. 

Square downward from V to establish X. 

X to Y is 5^ inch. (See explanation of Diagrams 15, 16 and 17.) 

From 1 to 2 and Y to Z is 2 inches more than one-half of the full hip. Draw a guide line 
from J through Z. 

J to Q is one-third or one-half the distance from J to the waist-line. Shape the seam 
from O through Z towards 18 as represented. 

G to 10 is 1 inch. 

From midway between G and 10 to N is the front-scye depth less the width of the back- 
part from A to L. 

Point 5 is half-way from A to F. Connect N and 5. 

Connect F and K to establish 3. N to 9 is the same as L to 3. 

F to 3 and from midway betAveen G and 10 through R towards 9 is the over-shoulder, 
which in this instance falls on the line N 5. 

N to 11 is the same as L to 8. Shape the scye from 11 to G as represented by the 
broken line, and from 9 through 10 to Q as represented by the solid line. 

N to O is % bust. Draw a straight line from O through 13 ; establish 12 as explained for 
Diagram 4, and shape the gorge from N to 12. •' •"'■ 

From 13 to 15 is one-third the distance from the bust-line to the waist-line. Square 
downward by the bust line through 15 to establish P, 



feAOIES' TAIIsOH-AlAOE GA^iWENTS. 



115 



K h ^1 




Diagram 39. 



116 THE •' STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



P to W is 3^ inch. Draw a straight line from 15 through W. The line 12, 15, W, S is 
the center-of-front. 

From 12 to 14 is 1 inch. 

From 14 to 16 and from S to 17 are each 2 inches. Shape the edge from 16 to 17, passing 
2 inches forward of 15. 

From the center-of-front to the button line is ^ inch less than S to 17. 

J to 18 is the same as J to 7. 

Pivot at 12; sweep forward and backward from Y^. inch below S and shape the bottom 
to 18 as represented. 

To obtain additional size around the bottom, proceed as explained for Diagram 41. 

Square downward from 10 to establish the back of the mouth of the pocket. 

A hand sling is represented just above the side-pocket extending across the waist-line. 

On cutting out the pattern, cut the scye on the line G to 11. When the cape has been 
drafted, cut the scye on the line 9, 10, Q. 



THE CAPE 



DIAGRAM 40. 

LAV the pattern of the forepart of the Inverness over another piece of paper. 
Mark along the edge of the pattern from 11 towards G, 11 to N, N to 12 and 12 
towards 15, parallel with the front edge below 16. Remove the pattern. 

From 12 to 16 and from 15 to 19 are each 2 inches. 

N to 1 is the length less the width of the top of the backpart. 

From 11 to 2 is 3 inches. 

From 1 1 to 3 is 1 inch. 

Shape the V from 2 to 3, passing 5^ inch backward of 11. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart of the Inverness in the position shown in broken lines, 
with the outer shoulder point at 3, and the center-back-seam about square with the front edge 
of the cape. 

Mark along the side of the backpart from 3 towards 4. 

Connect A and 12. 

O is half-way between A and 12. 

Pivot at O and sweep from 1 towards 4. 

From 4 to 5, and 4 to 6 are each 2 inches. 

Make notches on the cape and on the backpart at 5. 

From 12 to 7 is 1 inch. 

From 15 to 8 is 1 inch. 

The line 12 to 15 is the center-of-front. 

The line 7 to 8 represents the edge of the fly or top side of the cape. 



feADIES' TAIIsOK-iV^ADE GA^/VIENTS, 



117 



DIAGRAM 41. 

The Inverness has been drafted as explained for Diagram 39, and is represented by the 
broken line from 1 to 2 and all forward of it. 

To obtain additional size about the hips and bottom proceed as follows : 

Establish 3 half-way between 10 and Q. (Diagram 39.) 

Square downward from 3 by the bust line to establish 4. 

From 4 to 5 is as much as is required. 

Mark all along the edge of the pattern forward of the line 3 to 4. 

Pivot the pattern at 3 ; swing the lower part back until 4 touches 5, and mark along the 
edge from 3 to 6 and from 6 to 7. 

Reshape from 4 to 7. 

The additional size given around the bottom as shown on this diagram has also given ad- 
ditional size around the hips, which is represented by the cjuantity between 8 and 10. 

Point 9 is half-way between 8 and 10. 

Shape the side-seam from 6 to 7 through 9 or 10 as may be desired. 




Diagram 40. 



Diagram 41. 



118 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



JACKETS WITH FULL SKIRTS 



DIAGRAMS 42 AND 43. 

ON all the preceding diagrams the distribution of the size at the hip-line has been made 
according to the measure as taken on the form. Jackets cut in this manner, will of 
course, lie plain about the hips. 

The style may be either plain or full. To produce fullness or drapery below the waist 
proceed as follows : 

The broken lines below the waist represent the outlines of a back and sidebody drafted as 
heretofore instructed. A is at the natural waist, B is 1 inch below A, and C is at the hip- 
line, Sy2 inches below A. 

For a full-skirted coat add 1 inch from E to G, also from D to F, and draw straight lines 
from the edge of the pattern at line B through F and G. 

The sweeping point for the run of the bottom is at A. 

Additions may be made in like manner forfullness to the underarm piece and to the side- 
seam of the forepart as will be determined by the current style. For garments more than 
38 inches in length, not more than Y? inch should be added on either side, as this will give 
ample fullness. 



WHOLE BACKS 



DIAGRAM 44. 

FIRST shape the center-of-back as for a seam from 1 to 2 and 3, and from 6 to 4 in the 
usual manner. 

Cut out the backpart as drafted and lay the center-of-back on a straight line 

drawn on another piece of paper as from 1 to 5. The pattern of the backpart touches the 

straight line from 1 to 2. Mark all around the backpart above the waist line, points 2 and 6. 

Pivot the pattern at A ; swing 3 forward to 5, and mark from 6 to 4, which gives the 

heavy line from 6 to 7. 

From 1 to 5 is laid on a fold of the material. 

The material must be stretched opposite 6 and shrunk at 2. 



bADIES' TAII9OR./VIADE GAR/WENTS. 



119 




Diagram 42. Diagram 43. 



Diagram 44. 



120 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



HOOD 



DIAGRAM 45. 

DRAW a straight line as from O to 3. 
Lay the pattern of the backpart of the garment with which the hood is to be worn 
to touch the Hne }4 "^ch below^ O, as at 1, and I3/2 inch from the hne at the waist, as 
from 3 to 4. The position of the back is shown in broken hnes. Shape the top from O past 5 
as represented. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart as represented in broken lines with the shoulder-seam Yi 
inch from the backpart and mark along the neck-gorge from 6 to the center-of-front at 7. 
. O to 2 is the length. 
From 2 to 9 is according to the style effect desired. 
Square upward from 9. 
From 9 to 8 is 3 inches for this draft. 
Shape the front edge from 7 to 8 as represented. 

O to 2 is laid on a fold of the goods. A hem is sometimes added to the front edge 
from 7 to 8, and a drawing string is inserted in the hem. 

The light line extending from 7 to 10 show's a pointed hood, and that to 11 a rounded 
hood. 

COLLARETTE HOOD 



DIAGRAM 46. f 

THE hood represented by this diagram has the eft'ect of a collarette in front, the fold in the 
back extending only to the top of the shoulder. It is drafted in the following man- 
ner: 

Draw a straight line as A3. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart of the coat on the paper witli the center-back-seam touch- 
ing the line at the top, and 1^^ inch from the line at the natural waist as from 3 to 4. 

From 1 to A is y^ inch. Shape the gorge from A to 2. 

A to B is two-thirds of the length of the hood, and A to C is the full length. 

Pivot at A and sweep forward from B and C. 

B to D is one-fourth of the fvill length of the hood. Draw a line from A through D 1 1 
establish E. 

From 1 to F is Yz bust, and F to G is 1 inch. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart in the position shown by the broken lines, with point 6 Y2 
inch away from 2. 

Shape the gorge from 2 to the lapel crease-line which is at H, or to the center-of-front a- 
the case may be. 

Shape the outer edge of the hood from H through G to E as represented. 

Point 5 is half-way between B and C. 

From A to 5 is laid on a fold of the goods and the edges of the two sides are to be sewn 
together from D to E and D to 5. 



IsADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



121 





Diagram 45. 



Diagram 46. 



122 THE ••STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



THREE=QUARTER OR MILITARY CAPE 



DIAGRAM 47. 

DRAW a straight line as A B. 
Take the backpart and forepart of the waist or coat over which the cape is to be 
worn and lay the backpart to touch the straight line at 1, which is ^4 i"ch below A, 
and lyz inch forward of the line at the waist, as at E. The position of the backpart is shown 
in broken lines. Mark from A past the top point of the backpart as shown by the solid 

line. 

Lay the front shoulder i^ inch from the backpart as shown by the broken lines, and 
mark along the gorge to the center of the front at C, and along the center-of-front line 
towards D. The center-of-front is shaped the same as for a box-front coat. 

Connect A and C. 

F is half-way between A and C. 

Square in from F. 

F to G is 2^ inches. 

A to B is the length. 

Sweep for the bottom from Yz inch above B towards D, pivoting at G, and reshape the 
bottom from B and D to the sweep, as shown by the solid line. 

Any amount may be added forward of the center-of-front line C D, or taken from it, ac- 
cording to the style effect to be produced, the same as for any other style of garment. The 
gorge is usually surmounted by a stand-and-flare, or a stand-and-fall collar. 

HALF=CIRCLE CAPE 

Single Shoulder Darts. 

DIAGRAM 48. 

POINTS A, B, C, D, H and J are the same as on the preceding diagram, point J being 
half-way between B and D. 

Connect H and J, and establish K ^•2 inch more than 34 bust from H. 

Fold the pattern of the ^ cape on the line H J, and cut the pattern from H to K. 

Open out the pattern, keeping the hollow of the crease from K to J underneath. 

Place a weight on the back part of the pattern, raise the crease at J, and pivoting at K 
fold J backward towards O, until the center-of-front line C D is square with the line A B. 
This will spread the cut at H open to N. 

Press the fold in the paper flat, and mark from H to K and K to N, along the neck-gorge 
to L and down the center-of-front line to M. 

Extend the line from A to B upward towards O, and scjuare backward from L by the 
line A B to establish Q. 

Q to the circled disk is 1 inch. 

Pivot at the circled disk and cast a sweep from B to M as shown by the solid line. 

Shape the shoulder-seam as represented. 



bADIES' TAIbOH-^AOE GARi«ENTS. 



123 




Diagram 47. 



'f^ 




Diagram 48. 



124 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



HALF=C1RCLE CAPE 

Double Shoulder Darts. 

DIAGRAM 49. 

DRAFT first a short }i cape as shown on tlie lower diagram, in the same manner as ex- 
plained for Diagram 47. This gives points A, B, C, D, F, G, H and J. 
Point 1 is half-way from G to H. Connect 1 and J. 

From 1 to 2 is 3^ inch more than ^4 bust. 

Pivot at 1 and sweep upward and downward from 2. 

From 2 to 3 and 2 to 4 are each ^ bust. 

Connect G and 3. Connect H and 4. 

Cut out the short ^4 cape as above explained, and lay it over another piece of paper with 
the line A B on a straight line as W L. 

Mark from A to H. This gives K M. 

Prick through 4 to establish N. 

Place a weight on the pattern near the bottom, pivot underneath at N, and sweep from M 
towards P. 

M to P is ^ bust. 

Allow the pattern to fall again with 4 over N. Pivot the foundation pattern at 4 and 
swing H to P. 

Mark from H to G. This gives Q. 

Prick through 3 to establish R. 

Place a weight near the bottom, pivot underneath at R, and sweep from Q towards S. 

Q to S is i^ bust. 

Allow the pattern to fall again with 3 over R. Pivot the foundation pattern at 3 and 
swing G to S. 

Mark from G to C. This gives S to T. 

Mark along the front from C past D. This gives the line from T to U. 

Square by the center-of-back line from T to establish W. 

K to L is the length. 

Pivot at W and sweep from L to establish U. 



bADIES' TAII9OK-/VIAOE GARMENTS. 



125 




Diagram 49. 



126 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



TWO UNDERARHPIECES 



DIAGRAM 50. 

FOR tight-fitting coats for large forms, two underarmpieces are used as represented on 
this diagram. 

All the points which are not herein referred to are obtained in the same manner as 
heretofore explained. 

In this case the side-back is shaped below 3 parallel with the line El, and the center-of- 
back is shaped below S to 2, which is 1 inch backward of 1. Both side-back and center-of- 
back may be shaped as on Diagram 7 if it is so desired. 

Point 4 is obtained by a straight line drawn from 7 to midway between S and 3. 

The back-waist surplus, U to S is, say 3^ inches. This is disposed of in the following 
manner: A trifle less than one-half of it, say 1^ inch, is distributed equally on each side of 
T. This gives 14 and 15. From 3 to 6 is about one-third of the back-waist surplus, say 
I34 inch. Draw a straight line from 7 through 6 to establish 20, and shape the side-body as 
represented. Below 6 it is shaped towards Z which is ]/^ inch backward of 20. 

From 6 to the unlettered disk between 8 and 9 is 14 inch less than one-third of the dis- 
tance from 6 to 14. 

From 4 to 16 is one-third of the distance from 4 to G. 

From 16 to 17 is 3^ inch. Draw a straight line from 17 through the disk between 8 and 
9 to establish K. 

As 3 inches of the back-waist surplus has now been disposed of between 3 and 6, 14 and 
15, the remaining % inch is yet to be disposed of between 8 and 9, 10 and 11 in the following 
manner : 

One-half of it, ^ inch, is distribtited equally on each side of the unlettered disk. This 
gives 8 and 9. Now establish a point half-way between 9 and 14, as at the disk between 10 
and 11. Also establish 18 half-way between 17 and G, and draw a straight line from 18 
through the disk between 10 and 1 1 to establish O. The remaining ^ inch of back-waist sur- 
plus is now divided equally on each side of the disk between 10 and 11. 

Extend the line G T to establish 19. From 19 to H is ^ inch. 

Obtain the size of the draft on the hip line by measuring from Y to Z, and 20 to 2. Sup- 
posing this to be, say 4 inches less than ^ inch more than one-half of the full hip. This 4 
inches is gained by placing one-half of it distributed equally on each side of H, one-fourth 
distributed equally on each side of O, and one fourth distributed equally on each side of K. ■ 

On the diagram the bottom is shaped as for a waist-jacket as from D to Q. It may be 
made to any longth or style desired. 



& 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-iUAOE GA^^ENTS. 



127 




y X 



19 H 

Diagram 50. 



K 20Z I 2 



128 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



THE RUN OF THE BOTTOH 



DIAGRAMS 51 AND 52. 

TO equalize the lengths and obtain the run of the bottom edge proceed as follows : 
For all coats when the length is anywhere between the waist and hip lines, the pat- 
tern should be drafted to the hip line. For longer coats except such as have a 
separate skirt, they should be drafted an inch or more longer than the length required. 
Coats with separate skirts are drafted as explained for Diagram 9. 

Before cutting out the pattern, sweeps should be made on the waist line to equalize the 
lengths from the bust to waist line as explained near the close of explanation of Diagram 7. 
This gives points 1 to 6 on this diagram. 

Diagram 51. — All the parts having been cut out and a trifle longer than the full length 
required, lay the pattern of the forepart on the table and place a weight on it. 

Lay the underarmpiece, the notch 2 at notch 1, and touching each other at about 
the length desired, as at 8. Pivot at 8 ; bring the underarmpiece in the position shown on 
the diagram, and place a weight on it. 

Lay the sidebody, the notch 4 at notch 3, and touching the underarmpiece at the length 
required. Pivot at the bottom ; bring the sidebody in the position shown on the diagram, and 
shift the weight on the underarmpiece to the sidebody where it overlaps the underarm- 
piece just above 3. 

Lay notch 6 at notch 5 ; spread it at the waist until the backpart touches the sidebody 
fair, when in closed position at the length required, and place a weight on it. 

Establish the length required at 7 and 8 according to style; shape from 7 past 8 to 
style, and cut across each piece on the line just made. 

Diagram 52. — Now take the forepart separately and establish the front length as at 9. 

It will be more convenient to hold the darts in closed position if the back edges of the 
darts only are cut, leaving the cutting of the front edges until after the bottom has been 
shaped. 

Bring the sides of the darts in closed position below the waist notches, and holding in 
tliis position by weights, shape from 8 to 9 according to the style required. 



bADIES' TAIIsOR./VlAOE GAI^ENTS. 



129 




Diagram 51. 



Diagram 52. 



130 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



STYLE EFFECTS 



DIAGRAM 53. 

TOO much care cannot be exercised so that all the features of the garment shall be in har- 
mony with the design which the cutter is endeavoring to execute when working from 
a design selected by the customer. 

The coat represented by the accompanying figure is drafted practically in the same man- 
ner as explained for Diagram 3, in its fitting qualities, but it has no dart, has less overlap in 
front, and the front edge is slightly cut away. 

The line from 12 through Z and W is the center-of-front. 

The cutter will find that his work will be very greatly simplified by fixing in his mind the 
following order of procedure: 

First. — Establish the front edge below the end of the roll, in its relation to the center-of- 
front. 

The amount added to or taken from the coat, either forward or backward of the medial 
line, varies widely in different styles. Any garment wliich closes at the center-of-front edge 
to edge requires nothing on the top side, but a stand should be added on the under side, made 
in a separate piece to lay underneath the left front and wide enough to catch the stitching 
and project }i inch beyond the center line when finished. This is sometimes called the 
French closing. 

For garments that close at the center-of-front with buttons and buttonholes, and are 
close-fitting to the neck, not more than ^ inch should be added on the top side and a stand 1 
inch wide on the under side. For the same kind of front, excepting that it has revers, not 
more than ^^ inch should be added on both sides alike. This necessitates placing the 
button line ^ inch backward of the medial line. 

As the style of the front grows more and more loose-fitting, tlie amount added increases 
to almost any width required. 

P^or a single-breasted fly-front coat, such as represented by the accompanying figure, 
about 1 inch is added to both sides alike. This j-equires that the button line be placed 3^ inch 
backward of tlie medial line, or 1^ inch from the edge of the forepart. 

The amount, therefore, to be added forward of the medial line depends upon style, which 
is also modified by the tightness or looseness of the coat through the foreparts, and is the first 
item to be fixed by the cutter. The rule which fixes the position of the button line is that it 
must be placed as much backward of the medial line 12, Z, W as the front edge is forward 
of it, less one-half the diameter of the button used. 

Second.- — Locate tlie end of the roll if there be one, as point 24. 

To do this with a close approximation it is best to draw real or imaginary lines on the 
figure as represented by lines 1, 2 and 3. Line 1 is through the neck-point 1.2; line 3 is at the 
bottom of the scye as near as the eye can fix it, nnd line 2 is half-wav between lines 1 and 3. 

From the relative position of these lines it is readily observed that the end of the roll is 
about the same distance below line 3 as line 2 is above it, and point 24 is therefore established 
as represented. 



bADIES' TAII9OR--/VIAOE GAR/WENTS. 



131 




Diagram 53. 



132 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Third. — Draw the lapel crease-line from 24 towards a point ^ inch from the side of 
the neck. For other styles than this one, such as close at the throat or are coUarless, then the 
line is drawn from 24 to 12 or to the side of the gorge as the case may be. 

Fourth. — Establish on the draft the basic points which define the lapel or revers when 
in the position as worn, as points 27 and 28. 

A glance at the figure shows that point 27 is just a trifle above line 2. This gives the 
It ci gilt of point 27. 

Fifth. — Obtain the width of the rever. A glance at the figure shows that it is a little 
more than half-way from the crease-line to the front of the scye. 

Sixth. — Observe the run of the top of the rever, which in this case is on a slight upward 
incline from 27 towards 28. 

Seventh. — The end of the collar appears to be about 3/3 of the distance from the crease- 
line to 27, and is so established. 

Now run a tracer along the crease-line and fold the paper which is forward of it un- 
derneath the draft. 

Run the tracer from 24 to 27, 27 to 28 and mark 28. 

On opening out the crease the marks made by the tracer define approximately the shape 
of the rever from 24 to 29 and 30. Now shape the gorge from the front shoulder point to 30 
as represented. This gives 26. 

Space for the buttons, shape the front edge, and mark for the pockets as shown on 
the figure. 



bADIES' TAIbOR.iVlAOE GAHiV\ENTS. 133 



LAYING OUT 



DIAGRAM 54. 

ON the accompanying diagram is represented the pattern for a two-piece suit laid out 
ready for markmg on the goods. The suit is for a 36 bust size. The skirt is 5 
gored and 42 inches in length. 

The material is plain faced, has an observable nap, is 4 yards in length and 28 inches in 
width double fold. 

The line A G represents the fold which is laid next to you when the material is to be 
cut folded in this manner. 

Thought nmst now be given to arranging the several parts of the pattern on the ma- 
terial so as not to use any more of it than is necessary, each part lying zvith the nap, i.e., 
the top of each towards the right, and the bottom towards the left hand. 

As a general rule the largest parts should be distributed on the material first. The 
smaller parts can then be laid on the spaces between the larger ones. No part should be 
marked until the positions of all have first been approximately determined. 

For the suit represented by this lay-out the largest part, which is the back gore of the 
skirt, may be laid as represented at the lower end of the material with the front edge in line 
with the selvage edge, as represented by the line J on the diagram, making allowance for 
}^ inch seams on the front and back edges, a ^ inch seam at the top, and a facing at the 
bottom 3 inches wide as represented. 

The front edge of the side gore must be laid to run with a lengthwise thread of the ma- 
terial as represented by the line H, making allowances for seams and facing as explained for 
the back gore. 

The center-of-front is usually laid on the crease of the material as represented by the 
line G, and is cut without a seam on this line. The usual }i inch seam should be allowed on 
the back edge of this gore, a ^ inch seam at the top, and a 3 inch facing at the bottom. 

This brings the back edges of each of the gores on the bias of the material. When 
seamed together, each bias back edge is joined to a straight front edge. 

For all loose or semi-tight fitting garments, the pattern of the forepart should be laid 
with the front edge in line with a lengthwise thread of the material as represented. 

As the material has a plain face, the remaining parts should be laid to run with the nap, 
excepting the under-collar, which should always be laid with the front of the sew-on-edge as 
at K, on a lengthwise thread of the material. 



134 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



When the material has a decided figure running through it, 
and the coat is tight fitting, having the usual sidefornis, the center- 
of-back should be laid on a lengthwise thread at the top, and 1^ 
inch or 2 inches forward of the same thread at the waist as rep- 
resented. 

Lay the sidebody so that the seam above C will match the 
back above D, and the underarmpiece to match the sidebody at 
the top, as at E and F. 

The front edges of the bust darts should be laid to run with 
a lengthwise thread of the material. 

The sleeve should be laid on a lengthwise thread above the 
elbow. 

The front edge of the facing should be laid the same as the 
front edge of the forepart. They are sometimes (when the ma- 
terial is light weight), made to run through the entire shoulder as 
represented. More frequently they are made with the back edge 
extending to the shoulder seam as represented by the broken line. 

The back-center of the collar facing should always be laid on 
the crease-edge, and cut without a seam. 

When the material is of a loose weave, or heavy weight, the 
under-collar should be cut from a light weight melton or some 
suitable collar cloth of the same color as the material for the coat. 

The seam edge at K must not be cut on the bias, but on a 
lengthwise thread. 

Each part must also be so placed on the material as to pro- 
vide for seams and outlets as represented, and as previously ex- 
plained. 

When the material has an observable nap and a lengthwise 
figure running through it, or is a plaid, the skirt should be cut 
circular, i.e., without gores. If it is required that the center-of- 
front shall be laid on the usual lengthwise fold, then the sides must 
be pieced out at the selvage edges. Whenever neither the nap nor 
figure of the material forbids, and it is desired to have the 
center-of-front on a fold, than the lengthwise fold may be opened 
out and a cross-fold substituted. This cross-fold may be made 
as wide as necessary to cut the skirt without piecing. 

Mark around each piece with sharply edged chalk. Now cut 
the material, making the proper allowances for seams and inlays, 
and notch each part as represented. 



Diagram 54. 



bADIES' TAIbOR-'/WADE GARMENTS. 135 



PART V 

COLLARS 



136 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



COLLARS 



DIAGRAM 55. — This military collar will hug the neck close at the upper edge. 
Square the lines 1 to 2 and 1 to 3. 

From 1 to 3 is 1 inch. From 3 to 2 is the same as the size of the neck-gorge. 
Shape the seam-edge from 2 to 3, as represented. 

Square upward from 3 by the seam-edge towards 4, and make 3 to 4 and 2 to 5 the 
fashonable width. 

Diagram 56. — This collar will not cling as close to the neck on the upper edge as the one 
shown on the preceding diagram. It- is drafted on squared lines from 1 to 2 and 1 to 4. 

From 1 to 2 is the same as the size of the neck-gorge. 

1 to 4, and 2 to 5 are each made the fashionable width. 

Diagram 57. — This collar will stand away from the neck on the upper edge, because of 
the curve given to the seam-edge from 2 to 3. 

Square the lines 1 to 2 and 1 to 4. 

From 1 to 3 is 1 inch, and 3 to 2 is the same as the size of the neck-gorge. From 3 
to 4, and 2 to 5 is the fashionable width. From 4 to 6 is 34 of the width of the collar. Shape 
as represented. 

Diagram 58. — This collar will stand away from the side of the neck on the upper edge 
still more than the one shown on the preceding diagram. It is drafted in the same manner as 
for the preceding diagram, excepting that from 1 to 3 is 2 inches, and 4 to 6 is 34 of the width 
of the collar. 

Diagram 59. — The upper edge of the collar defined by points 2, 3, 5 and 6, will have a 
decided flare from the side of the neck. It is drafted in the same manner as for the preced- 
ing diagram, excepting that from 1 to 3 is 3 inches. Additional flare may be given to the 
upper edge of the collar by making it in two pieces each side. In such a case proceed as 
follows : 

From 3 to 7, and 7 to 8 are each the same as the width of the top of the back of the coat. 
Pivot at 3 and cast a short sweep just above the top edge of the collar, also (using the same 
length of sweep) pivot at 8 and cast a cross-sweep as represented to establish 9. Connect 
7 and 9. 

From 10 to 1 1 is the same as 4 to 6 distributed equally on each side of the line from 7 to 9. 
. The front portion of this collar is defined by points 2, 7, 11, 5 and 2, and the other por- 
tion by 3, 6, 10, 7 and 3. 

Diagram 60. — This collar is made in two parts, the stand being drafted in the same man- 
ner as the one shown on Diagram 55, and is defined by points 1, 2, 4 and 5. 

The leaf is defined by points 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9, and is produced as follows : 

Reverse the position of the stand as shown by the shaded part and mark around the 
edge lightly. Shape the seam-edge from 4 passing through 6, (which is Yt. inch inside of the 
edge of the shaded part), towards 5. From 4 through 6 to 7 is the same as the top of the 
stand from 4 to 5. 



IgAOIES' TAIl30R»/V\AOE GAI^/WENTS. 



137 





Diagrams 55 to 63. 



138 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Lay the pattern of the stand in the position shown by the upper broken lines, and mark 
along the back seam to get the run of the back seam of the leaf from 4 to 8. 

Make from 4 to 8, and 7 to 9 the fashionable width, and shape the bottom of the leaf from 
8 to 9 as represented by the solid line. 

The prhiciple involved in drafting collars with a stand only, and also those having both 
a stand and leaf, is that the more convex the sew-on edge is made, and the more concave the 
upper or outer edge, the less will be the spring, and the closer will the upper or outer edge 
cling to the neck. On the other hand, the more concave the sew-on edge is made, and the more 
convex the outer or upper edge, the greater will be the spring of the collar and the ease 
with which it will fall around the neck. 

Diagram 61. — This collar is designed for garments which close at the throat. It is 
usually worn with the leaf turned down over the stand, but can be worn standing when de- 
sired. It is drafted in the following manner : 

Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and mark the shape of the 
neck-gorge from 1 to 2. Shape the end of the collar above 1 to style. 

Remove the pattern and shape the crease-line from 1 through 2 towards 3, and the seam- 
edge from 1 towards 4, passing about }i inch below 2. 

From 1 to 4 is the same as the size of the neck-gorge, and from 3 to 4 is 1 inch. 

From 3 to 5 is the fashionable width of the leaf. The line 3 to 4 is square with the crease- 
line, and that from 3 to 5 is sprung out about ^^l inch from a straight line if one were drawn 
from 4 through 3. 

Diagram 62. — This is also a stand-and-fall collar. It is suitable for all coats which 
close high over the bust, also for those with medium length of roll, and for soft rolls. It is 
drafted as follows : 

Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper. Mark the shape of the neck- 
gorge from 4 to 8, and shape the end of the collar to style. 

Draw the crease-line from 3 through 4 towards 5. From the crease-line to 6 is from 1 
to 1J4 inch. Shape the seam-edge from 6 to 8 as represented, making from 8 to 6 the same 
as the size of the neck-gorge. , 

Square by the crease-line from 6 to establish 5. From 5 to 7 is the fashionable width. 
For a leaf of medium width, the back seam from 5 to 7 should be sprung out about 3-4 inch 
from a straight line drawn from 6 through 5. 

Diagram 63. — This collar is designed for coats with long rolls. It is a stand-or-fall 
collar, and is drafted in the same manner as explained for the preceding diagram, except that 
the crease-edge is drawn from 3 midway between 2 and 4. 

BROAD CREASED COLLAR WITH STAND 



T 



DIAGRAM 64. 

HIS collar dififers materially from the sailor collar in that it is made continuous with 
broad rolling revers. It has a stand, and follows the curvature at the side of the 
neck. 



bADIES* TAIbOR-AlAOE GAR/VIENTS. 



139 



'15. 



Points R, 10, N and Al represent 
the upper parts of a forepart and 
backpart laid in closed position at 
the shoulder seam. The crease-line 
is drawn from the end of the roll at 
R }i inch forward of N. This es- 
tablishes Y. 

Square downward from N by the 
crease-line towards 6. 

From the line N 6 to 2 is the 
same as from N to A. Square each 
way from 2. 

From 2 to 3 and 2 to 4 are each 
the height desired for the stand, say 
13-4 inch. Shape the seam-edge 
from 3 to Y and 10, and mark for 
a notch as at 5 as represented. 

From the crease-line to 6 is the 
same as to the seam-edge opposite 
N. 

Mark the shape of the outer edge 
as from R through M to Q to width 
desired, and mark the shape by a 
tracer so that this line will show on 
the under side of the forepart and 
backpart. 

Take the pattern of the forepart and iilace it in reversed position on the crease-line, the 
forepart at Y touching the crease-line also at Y, and point N on the forepart touching point 
6. Mark along the shoulder seam from N to 11 (Diagram A). This gives the heavy line 
from 6 towards 9. Also mark through on the traced line on the forepart from M towards R. 
This gives the heavy line from 9 to 10 and establishes 9. 

Now lay the pattern of the backpart of the coat in reversed position with the neck-points 
A and L (Diagram A), at 4 and 6 respectively, as represented in broken lines, and mark from 
2 towards 7 parallel with the center-of-back of the coat pattern. Shape from N towards 8 as 
represented by the heavy line, passing }i or y^ inch below 6 and ^ inch below the shoulder 
seam of the backpart opposite 8. Also mark through on the traced line from M to Q. This 
gives the heavy line from 8 to 7. Mark for notches as at 11 and 13. 

From N to 8 on the back section, seams to the front section from N to 9. The center-of- 
back from 3 to 7 may be cut on a fold of the goods for the top collar if .so desired. 

A flat collar without stand may be cut as defined by points R, N, A, Q, M and back to R, 
or the outer edge may be given any shape desired as represented by points R, N, A, 14, 15, 16 
and l)ack to R. But in such cases lay the forepart and backpart in closed position at N and J4 
inch apart at the outer shoulder M. 




DlAGR.\M 64. 



140 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



" The language of the face and manner are the instantaneous short-hand of the mind, 
which is very quickly read. 

" We were made to radiate the perfume of good cheer and happiness as much as a rose 
was made to radiate its sweetness to every passerby." 



bADIES' TAIIaOR^iVlADE GAH/WENTS. 141 



PART VI 

SKIRTS 



142 THE "STANDAKD" WORK ON CUTTING 



5KIRT5 

THE measures required are the waist, taken snug; the hip, taken easy Sj/^ inches below the 
waist ; the front, side and back lengths, each taken to the floor. The lengths can be 
changed to the fashionable lengths when drafting the pattern. 
Unless the waist line is clearly defined, it will be advantageous to tie a strong cord 
around it. It should be kept at the bottom of the waist at the sides, and when drawn closely 
it will follow the natural run of the waist line. The lengths are then taken from the cord to the 
floor. 

THE SWEEPING.-POINTS 



DIAGRAMS 65 AND 66. 

DIAGRAM 65. — On this diagram are shown five skirts of dififering degrees of fullness 
at the waist line and of size around the bottom. 

The center-of-back is defined, for the first, by the broken line extending up- 
ward from O, and for the others by the lines extending upward from El, G, H and I. 

Each skirt will hang plain about the hips, but with different degrees of fullness at the 
sides and back below the hips, and with dififerent degrees of fullness at the waist line. The 
fullness at the waist may be disposed of b} darts or tucks, or it may be shrunk on to the 
band according to the amount of fullness as may be required. 

To obtain the several degrees of fullness below the hip line, six dififerent sweeping- 
points are used, as Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. 

When it is desired that a skirt shall hang plain or with but a little fullness at the sides 
below the hip line, sweeping point No. 1 should be used. If less plain, then No. 2 should be 
used, and so on. 

A glance at the diagram will show the several curvations at the waist, hip and bottom 
produced by the use of sweeping-points, Nos. 1, 2 and 3. 

For circular skirts either sweeping-point may be used according to the fullness desired 
at the sides and back below the hip line. 

For gored skirts sweeping-point No. 1 is used when but a little fullness is desired below 
the hip line, No. 2 when more fullness is desired, and No. 3 when still more. For all gored 
skirts the sweeping-point should be used which produces the desired fullness about the knees 
without regard to the size desired around the bottom. Additional size around the bot- 
tom for gored skirts may be obtained by overlapping the gores at the bottom ; by circular 
flounces, and by plaits as shown on subsequent diagrams. For skirts that are profusely 
plaited at the sides, the center-of-back should be drawn from O through Dl. When mode- 
rately plaited it should be drawn from El, and when without plaits, from G, H or I. 

The system is applicable to every size of waist and hip, and seams may be located to suit 
the width of the material used. 



bAOIES' TAII90R-/V1A0E GAH^IENTS. 



143 



(§)' 




Diagram 65. 



144 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



For the three smaller skirts sweeping-point No. 1 is used, and they are drafted as follows : 

A to B is 42 inches always. 

B to F is the side length, say 40 inches. In this case the front and side lengths are the 
same. (See Diagrams 72 and 71 for varying front and side lengths.) 

C is always 53^ inches below the side length as from B to C 

From the side length at B to 1 above is one and one-half times the full size of the waist. 
This gives the sweeping-point No. 1, which for a 22 waist is 33 inches, for a 24 waist is 
36 inches, and for a 28 waist is 42 inches. 

Pivot at 1 and sweep backward from B, C, F and A. 

C to Dl is one-half of the full hip. This for a 42 hip is 21 inches. 

A to El is the full hip, say 42 inches. 

El to O is J^ hip, which for a 42 hip is 3>4 inches. 

El to G is 14 hip, which for a 42 hip is 5^ inches. 

The center-of-back line may now be drawn either from O, El or G through Dl as pre- 
viously stated, from O when profusely plaited, from El when moderately plaited, or from G 
when plain, flared or flounced. 

The center-of-back line when thus drawn establishes the center-of-back on the waist 
line as at Jl if drawn from G. Jl to K is the back length. 

Sweeping-point No. 2 (B to 2), is one and one-fourth times the size of the waist. This 
for a 22 waist is 27j^ inches, for a 24 waist is 30 inches, and for a 28 waist is 35 inches. 
Pivot at 2 and sweep backward from B, C, F and A. 
C to D2 is one-half of the full hip, which for a 42 hip is 21 inches. 
A to E2 is the full hip, say 42 inches. E2 to H is J^ hip, 10>4 inches. 
Draw a straight line from H through D2. This establishes J2. 
J2 to L is the back length. 

Sweeping-point No. 3 (B to 3), is the full size of the waist, say 24 inches. 

Pivot at 3 and sweep backward from B, C, F and A. 

C to D3 is one-half of the full hip, say 21 inches. 

A to E3 is the full hip, say 42 inches. 

E3 to I is ^ and ]A, hip, which for a 42 hip is lO^^ and 5^ inches, or 15^ inches in all. 

Draw a straight line from I through D3. This establishes J3. 

J3 to M is the back length. 

Should it be desired to have a skirt that will hang quite straight down the front, pro- 
ceed as follows: 

Draw the line Al and obtain points A, F, B, 1, 2 and 3 as already explained. 

A to 4 is 1^ inch. Connect B and 4, and establish C on this line 5j^ inches below B. 

Obtain the size required around the bottom from A ; finish in the same manner as 
first explained, and cut the center-of-front on the line from B to 4. 

The size around the bottom is always applied from A without regard to the length of 
the skirt, which is at F. This may be above or below A. 



laADIES' TAII90R = /V1A0E GAR/VIENTS. 145 



THE SWEEPINQ=POINTS 



(Concluded.) 

DIAGRAM 66. — On this diagram three skirts are represented of differing degrees of 
fullness at the waist line, and of size around the bottom than as on the ^receding 
diagram. 

The center-of-back is defined for one by the line J I, for another by the line M L, and 
for the other by the line P O. 

Each skirt will hang plain about the hips, but with differing degrees of fullness at the 
waist and sides below the hip line. 

To obtain the several degrees of fullness below the hip line, three sweeping-points are 
used, as Nos. 4, 5 and 6. 

When it is desired that a skirt shall hang with more fullness at the sides and bottom than 
is produced by using the sweeping-point — No. 3 (on Diagram 65), then No. 4 should be 
used. If still more fullness is desired then use points 5 or 6 as required. 

A glance at the diagram will show the several curvations at the waist, hip and bottom 
produced by the use of the three sweeping-points. 

A to B is the side length. In this case the front and side lengths are the same. 

From the side length at B to C is 5j/2 inches. Square backward from B and C. 

C to D and B to E are each one-eighth of the full waist, or yz waist on the divisions of 
Fourths on the drafting-square, which for a 24 waist is 3 inches. Draw a straight line from 
D upward through E. 

D to F and E to G are each }i inch. 

G to the sweeping-point 4 and numbered 4, is one-half of the full waist, which for a 24 

waist is 12 inches. , r i r n 

G to the sweeping-point 6 and numbered 6, is 1 inch more than one-fourth of the full 

waist, 7 inches in all for a 24 waist. 

From 6 to the sweeping-point 5 numbered 5, is one-third of the distance between 6 and 4. 
When using sweeping-point No. 4, pivot at 4 and sweep backward from G, F and A. 
C to H is one-half of the full hip, say 21 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 5 through H. This establishes J. 

J to I is the back length. r- 17 a a 

When using sweeping-point No. 5, pivot at_ 5 and sweep backward from G, F and A. 
C to K is one-half of the full hip, say 21 inches. 
Draw a sfaight line from 6 through K. This establishes M. 

M to L is the back length. r tt ^„a & 

When using sweeping-point No. 6, pivot at 6 and sweep backward from G, F and A. 
C to N is 1^ inch more than one-half of the full hip. 
Square backward by the line D to 4 through N. This establishes P. 

?;°™™t^fts Xof .he su,,us s.e on *e wai. H„e ^V ^---'- -"j" *= 
application of varying front and side lengths is given m the explanat.ons for Diagrams /, 

and 73. 



146 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



For a skirt that will hang quite straight down the front, cut the center-of-front on the 
line B4, which is obtained as follows: 

A to 4 is iy2 inch. Connect B and 4. When obtaining the hip sizes at H, K and N, ap- 
ply the measure from C on the line B4 instead of B A. 

From the foregoing it should be observed that for a skirt to hang plain about the 
sides and fairly close at the knees, sweeping-point No. 1 should be used. This also gives 
the largest amount of surplus on the waist line. 

A skirt drafted by the use of sweeping-point No. 2 will hang less plain about the sides; 
will also be larger about the knees, and will have less surplus on the waist line than when 
sweeping-point No. 1 is used. Sweeping-point No. 3 will produce more fullness about the 
knees and less surplus on the waist line than will No. 2, and so on up to sweeping-point 
No. 6, which gives the largest amount of fullness around the knees and bottom, and the 
smallest amount on the waist line. 

When drafting circular skirts either of the sweeping-points, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, may 
be used according to the fullness desired at the sides, at the knee length, and on the waist line. 
A skirt drafted without darts or with but little fullness on the waist line must necessarily have 
a considerable amount of fullness at the knee length and bottom. 

When drafting gored skirts the sweeping-point must be selected with regard to the full- 
ness required around the knees only. Any desired fullness can be secured at the bottom by 
over-lapping the gores at the bottom as represented on Diagram 71. The sweeping-points, 
Nos. 1, 2 or 3, will give ample latitude for variations in fullness around the knees for all gored 
skirts. At the present time No. 1 is used almost exclusively for gored skirts. 

For gored skirts that are profusely plaited at the sides, sweeping-point No. 1 should be 
used, and the size around the bottom is as from A to O on Diagram 65. 

THE DISPOSITION OF THE WAIST SURPLUS 



TO avoid repetition in the explanations which follow, the disposition of the waist surplus, 
as between B and J on Diagram 67, or between B and I on Diagram 68, is now con- 
sidered. 

It is impossible to state, with more than an approximation to correctness, just what 
proportion of the surplus shall be taken out by each dart, because the shapes of women vary 
greatly between the waist and hip lines at the front, side and back. A woman having a cer- 
tain configuration to-day, may, by various methods, which may be employed, be a radically 
different shape to-morrow. 

Hence it follows that the shape of client must be carefully noted, so that the darts may 
be properly proportioned as flat, medium flat, medium full or extra full at front of abdomen, 
medium full or extra full at the side hips, and flat, medium full or extra full at the back hips. 
For forms medium flat at the front and full at the side and back hips, the largest part of 
the waist fullness must be taken out where there is the largest roundness between waist 
and hip, and the smallest part where there is the smallest roundness, as on Diagram 67. 
This being a gored skirt with a wide front gore, about 54 inch less than one-fourth of the sur- 
plus is taken out by the first dart, and the remainder is divided about equally between the 
second and third darts. 



bADIES' TAIl90H--^A0E GAI^^IENTS. 



147 



For forms medium full at the front, full at the sides, and medium flat at the back hips, 
about one-fourth of the surplus may be taken out by the first dart, if made with a wide front 
gore, one-half by the second dart, and one-fourth by the third dart. 

When the greatest roundness or fullness on the hip line is at the front, then the greater 
proportion of the surplus must be taken out by the first dart, and the remainder distributed 
between the remaining darts according to the fullness at the side and back hips. 




Diagram 66. 



148 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN FIVE-GORED SKIRT 



o 



DIAGRAM 67. 

N this diagram a skirt is represented that will hang plain around the hips and sides. To 
obtain this effect, sweeping-point No. 1 is used, as explained for Diagram 65. 
The measures used are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front, side and back lengths. 
The form is medium flat at front of abdomen, and full at the side and back hips. 

TO DRAFT. 



Draw a straight line as A D. 

A to B is the side length, 42 inches, which in this case is the same as the front length. 

B to C is 5^ inches always. 

B to D is the full waist 24 inches, and one-half of the full waist 12 inches, in all 36 inches. 
Pivot at D and sweep backward from B, C and A. 

C to F is one-half of full hip, 21 inches. 

A to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to G are each Yi hip on the divisions of Halves, or one-fourth 
of the full hip, IO3/2 inches. This gives the full size of hip from A to G, 42 inches. 

G to H is 3^ hip on the divisions of Fourths, or one-eighth of full hip, 534 inches. Draw 
a straight line from H through F to establish I. 

It is best now to determine whether the center-of-back line should run on a straight 
line as H I or be shaped above F as to J. This depends upon the shape of client at that part, 
and as in this case the back hips are full the back-center is shaped above F to J which is 
Yi inch, more or less, forward of I. 

By measuring along the waist line from B to J we find that it measures 16 inches, and 
as one-half of the full waist required is but 12 inches, 16 inches is 4 inches too much. This 
4 inches is to be taken out between points 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 according to the shape of client 
from the waist to the hip line. Being medium flat at the front and full at the side and back 
hips the greatest amount is taken out above the side and back hips, and the smallest amount at 
the front. This having first been determined as 34 inch between 4 and 5, l^^s inch between 6 
and 7, and iS/g inch between 8 and 9, proceed as follows: 

B to 4 is 3^ waist on the divisions of Fourths, or one-eighth of full waist, 3 inches. From 
4 to 5 is ^ inch. From 5 to 6 is the same as B to 4. From 6 to 7 is 1^ inch. From 7 to 

8 is the same as B to 4. From 8 to 9 is \y^ inch. J to 9 is the same as B to 4. 

Draw straight lines from midway between 4 and 5 to 1, and from midway between 8 and 

9 to 3. Draw a short line from midway between 6 and 7 towards 2 for the run of the dart, 
and shape below 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 as represented. 

J to M is the back-length, 42 inches. Shape the bottom from A through 2 to M as rep- 
resented. 

Any style of plaiting may be added backward of the center-of-back line as desired, as 
is hereinafter explained. 

Make marks for the gore notches as represented, one on the front and side-front, and 
two on the back and side-back seams. 

For a skirt to hang quite straight down in front, establish the center-of-front as from B 
to 4 on Diagram 65. This applies to all gored skirts. 



SADIES' TAIIsOH-^ADE GAI^^IENTS. 



($)^ 



149 




Diagram 67. 



150 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN FIVE=GORED SKIRT 



DIAGRAM 68. 

ON this diagram is represented a skirt without the intermediate dart on the waist line as 
on Diagram 67. It is designed only for forms having a large waist in proportion 
to hip size. 
The measures used are 26 waist, 42 hip, 42 front, side and back lengths. 
This skirt will hang a trifle fuller about the knees and bottom than the one represented 
by Diagram 67, because of the shortening of the distance from B to D. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A D. 

A to B is the front and side lengths, which in this case are alike, 42 inches. 

B to C is 5y2 inches always. 

B to D is the full size of the waist, 26 inches, and one-fourth of the full waist, 63/I 
inches, or 32^ inches in all. (Sweep No. 2.) 

Pivot at D and sweep backward from B, C and A. 

C to F is one-half of full hip, 21 inches. 

A to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to G, and G to H are each ^ hip on the divisions of Halves, or 
one-fourth of the full hip, 10^ inches. 

Draw a straight line from H through F. This establishes I. 

By measuring along the sweep-line from B to I we have in this case 16>4 inches, and as 
one-half of the full size required is but 13 inches, 16>4 inches is 3^ inches too much. 

This 3^ inches is to be taken out between points 4, 5, 6 and 7, according to the shape of 
client from the waist to the hip line. Being medium full at the front and full at the side and 
back hips about one-third of it is taken out between 4 and 5, say 1 inch, and the remaining 
23/2 inches between 6 and 7. This having been determined proceed as follows : 

B to 4 is 3/2 waist on the divisions of Thirds, scant 4^ inches. From 4 to 5 is 1 inch as 
above explained. 

From 5 to 6 and from 1 to 7 are each the same as B to 4. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 4 and 5 to 1. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 6 and 7 to a point 1 inch forward of 3. 

Pi^'0t on the hip line below 6 and 7 and sweep backward from 6 to establish 7. Also 
sweep forward from 5 in the same manner to equalize the lengths above the notches. 

I to M is the back length, 42 inches. Shape the gore seams and bottom as represented, and 
mark for the notches, one on the seam below 4, and two on the seam below 6. 

Any style of plaiting may be added backward of the line I M as required, as is herein- 
after explained. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./VlAOE GAt^/WENTS. 



151 



(^° 




Diagram 68. 



152 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN SEVEN=QORED SKIRT 



DIAGRAM 69. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front, side and 
back lengths. The form is medium flat at the front and full at the side and back hips, 
and it is desired that the skirt shall hang plain or with but little fullness around the 
knees. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A D. 

A to B is the front and side lengths, which in this case are alike, 42 inches. 

B to C is Sj/l inches always. 

B to D is one and one-half times the size of the waist, 36 inches. (Sweep No. 1.) Pivot 
at D and sweep backward from B, C and A. 

C to F is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 

A to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 3 to G are each Yz hip, IO3/2 inches. 

G to H is ^ hip, 5j4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from H through F. This establishes I. 

As the form is full at F the center-of-back is shaped above F to J, which is 3/2 inch for- 
ward of I. 

Having first determined the amount of surplus between B and J and the proportion of 
this surplus to be taken out at the top of the gore seams as already explained for the pre- 
ceding diagrams, proceed as follows: 

B to 4 is y^ waist, 3 inches. 

From 4 to 5 is about 34 inch less than one-fourth of the waist surplus. The waist surplus 
being 4 inches, from 4 to 5 is ^ inch. 

From 5 to 6 is 34 waist, 3 inches. 

From 6 to 7 is about one-half of the remainder of the waist surplus, 1 y^ inch. 

From 7 to 8 and J to 9 are each 14 waist, 3 inches. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 4 and 5 to a point 1 inch forward of 1. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 6 and 7 to 2. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 8 and 9 to a point about 2 inches backward 
of 3. 

Equalize the lengths above the hip line by sweeping backward from 6 and from 8. This 
fixes 9 a little above the sweep-line from B. Shape from 9 to J parallel with the sweep-line. 

J to M is the back length. 

Finish as represented and mark for the notches, one on the first seam, two on the 
second, and three on the third. 



IsADIES' TAIbOR-/VlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



153 




Diagram 69. 



154 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAIN NINE=GORED SKIRT 

Narrow Front Gore. 

DIAGRAM 70. 

ON the preceding diagrams the gores are of the same, or equal width on the waist line, 
and of unequal width on the hip line. The pecuHarity of this skirt is that all the 
gores backward of the front gore are of equal width on the hip line, and of unequal 
width on the waist line. The width of the front gore is one-half that of the other gores, but 
being cut on a fold of the material all the gores will be of the same width between the seams 
on the hip line and bottom. 

The measures used for this diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front, side and back 
lengths. The form to be fitted is medium flat at the front, and full at the side and back 
hips. It is desired that the skirt hang plain about the hips and with little fullness about 
the sides at the knee length. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A D, and obtain points A. B, C, D, F, G, H, I, J, and M in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 69. 

For a skirt with nine gores place the drafting-square or yard stick across the draft as 
from C to F. Now we want to find a quantity that can be divided by the number of gores, 
avoiding any fraction of an inch when one can conveniently do so. As from C to F is, in this 
case, 21 inches, it cannot as conveniently be divided by 9 (the number of gores required), 
as can 18. So raise the square upward keeping the angle of the square on the center-of- 
front, and the long arm about parallel with C F until we have 18 inches as from E to K. 

Draw a light line from E to K and mark E to 1 one-ninth of the distance from E to K, 2 
inches. Then mark from 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 each twice the width from E to 1,4 inches. 

Now find a place across near the bottom which can readily be divided by nine, as 45 
inches from L to N, one-ninth of which is 5 inches. Then mark from L to 7, one-ninth, 
5 inches, and from 7 to 8, 8 to 9, 9 to 10 and 10 to N, each two-ninths, or 10 inches. 

Draw straight lines through 1 and 7, 2 and 8, 3 and 9 and 4 and 10. 

Proceed in the same manner for skirts of any desired uneven number of gores, say 11, 
in which case the most convenient place near the hip line would be just below C and F, where 
the draft measures 22 inches as from Y to Z. This divided by 1 1 gives 2 inches for the front 
gore width. Each of the remaining gores are twice as wide as the front gore, 4 inches. These 
divisions are represented by the unnumbered points between Y and Z. 

For this form I to J is 3^ inch, and there is no part of the waist surplus taken out at 12. 
The total surplus between B and J is 4j/^ inches, and about J4 inch less than one-fourth of it 
is taken out between 13 and 14, say V^ inch. The remaining 3^ inches is distributed 
about equally, say 1% inch between 15 and 16, and 1^ inch between 17 and 18. 

Pivot on or near the hip line below 3, and sweep backward from 15. 

Pivot near the hip line below 4, and sweep backward from 17. This equalizes the lengths 
above the hip line and establishes 16 and 18 a trifle above the sweep-line from B. Shape 
from 18 to J parallel with the sweep-line B I. 

J to M is the back length. Mark the gore notches, and finish as represented. 



feAOIES' TAIbOR^/VlAOE GAR/VIENTS. 



(«)D 



155 




Diagram 70. 



156 THE "STANDAKD" WORK ON CUTTING 



SEVEN=QORED SKIRT WITH YOKE 

Habit Back and Flare. 

DIAGRAM 71. 

rE shape is that which largely prevails at this time, viz : medium flat at the front and 
full at the side and back hips. 

The measures used are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front, side and back lengths. 

Obtain points A, B, C, D, F, G, H, I, J, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 69. 

B to E is one-half of the side-length, 21 inches. Pivot at D and sweep backward from 
E. This establishes K. 

Draw a straight line from F to G to establish L. 

For this skirt the 2 inches between K and L is eliminated by taking out one-third of it 
forward of K, one-third distributed equally on each side of 11, and one-third distributed 
equally on each side of 10. 

The amount of flare given at the bottom of the gores is a matter of style. On the dia- 
gram the overlap on the front and side front gores is 2 inches. At 2 the overlap is 3 inches. 
On the side-back and back gores the overlap is 4 inches, and from H to M is 3 inches. 

J to M is the back length, 42 inches. Shape the lines below 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and J and the 
bottom as represented. 

To equalize the lengths at the bottom pivot at 12 and sweep backward from the front 
edge of the side front. Pivot at 13 and sweep backward from the front edge of the side back. 
Pivot at 14 and sweep backward from the front edge of the back. 

The yoke is represented by the shaded diagram. The shape of the lower edge of the 
yoke is first marked across the gores as from C to 12, 13, 14 and 15. 

Yokes are sometimes shown 1, 2, 3 or 4 inches below the hip line. In such case the 
yoke is cut in sections, cut ofif from the upper part of the gores. Whenever it is required 
that the yoke shall be in one piece, as represented by the shaded diagram, the lower edge must 
not be materially above or below the hip line for two important reasons. First, the hip 
size must not be changed, but remain as drafted. Second, the sizes of the parts of the yoke 
between C, 12, 13, 14 and 15 must remain the same as those on the gores between the corres- 
ponding points. 

The pieces which are to form the shape of the yoke need not be cut off from the gores 
until the skirt has been fitted to the waist and hips. They may not be cut off at all, but 
finished to the band the same as any other gored skirt. The yoke is then fitted over the gores. 

Any changes which have been found necessary in the size or shape of the gores should 
also be made on the pattern by which the skirt was cut. Then to produce the yoke in one 
piece, proceed as follows: 

Lay the front gore over another piece of paper and mark around it from B to C. 12, 4 
and back to B. 



bADIES' TAIbOH-MAOE GA^^ENTS. 



157 



(ft 




Diagram 71. 



158 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Lay the next gore to touch the front gore at 12. Then pivoting it at 12 swing point 5 
over to 4 and mark from 4 to 6, 13 and 12. Whenever the first dart is of any considerable 
size, as would be the case when the form was full at 12 and C, then, holding the side from 
at 12 swing 5 towards 4 until the edges of the gores touch each other midway between the 
waist and hip lines. 

Lay the next gore to touch the side front at 13. Pivot at 13 and swing point 7 towards 
point 6 until the gores touch each other midway between the waist and hip lines. Then mark 
from 7 to 8, 14, 13 and back to 7. 

Lay the back gore to touch the side back gore at 14. Pivot at 14 and swing 9 towards 
8 until the two gores touch each other midway between the waist and hip lines. Then mark 
from 9 to J, 15, 14 and back to 9. 

Remember that when there is no surplus of size on the hip line there must be a surplus 
on the waist line, as otherwise the skirt would be tight between the waist and hips. The 
waist fullness is then shrunken to the band. Whenever the nature of the material used will not 
admit of shrinking, then the skirt should be drafted at least 1 inch larger than one-half of 
the full hip from C to F. When there is no surplus on the waist line there must be a sur- 
plus on the hip line. 

VARYING FRONT, SIDE AND BACK LENGTHS 



DIAGRAM 72. 

THE front, side and back lengths will frequently vary according to the prominence of 
the hips or stomach, or the attitude of the form to be fitted. The right and left side 
lengths should be taken, as frequently one hip will be found to be more prominent 
than the other, causing the length to be greater than on the side where the hip is less promi- 
nent. In such case draft both sides by the length of the side most prominent. The fiat 
side must then either be padded, or shortened at the top to the measure for that side. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 40 front length, 
42 side length, and 43 back length. 

The form is of the shape the most prevalent at the present time, viz : medium flat at the 
front, and full at the side and back hips. The skirt is to fit smoothly and without fullness 
at the hips, and to hang moderately plain at the sides. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A E. 
A to B is the side length, 42 inches. 
A to C is the front length, 40 inches. 
B to D is 5j/2 inches always. 

B to E is one and one-half times the full size of the waist, 36 inches for this draft. 
(Sweep No. 1.) 

Pivot at E and sweep backwards from B, D and A. 



bAOIES' TAII9OR-/VIAOE GARMENTS. 



159 



($). 




Diagram 72. 



160 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



D to F is one-half of the full size of the hip, 21 inches. 

A to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to G are each ^ hip, lOy^ inches. 

G to K is j4 hip, S}i inches. 

Draw a straight line from K through F. This establishes I. 

From midway between B and I shape the waist to the front length at C. 

Shape the back center above F J^ inch forward of I. 

The sides are spaced for seven gores with a narrow front gore as explained for Diagram 

70. 

For this draft C to J measures I61/2 inches. This is 4y2 inches more than one-half of the 
full size of waist required, and is eliminated at the top of the gore seams as represented in 
accordance with the shape of the form to be fitted. For a skirt with a narrow front gore 
and a form medium flat at the front, not more than jA inch should be taken out between 4 and 
5. The remaining 4 inches is taken out about equally between 6 and 7, 8 and 9. The seams 
are then drawn below 4 and 5 to a point 1 inch forward of 1 , below 6 and 7 to 2 and below 8 
and 9 to a point about 2 inches backward of 3, or as explained for Diagram 70. 

J to M is the back length, 43 inches. 

Shape the bottom from A through 2 to M as represented. 

To equalize the lengths above the hip line, pivot at the hip line and sweep backward from 
8. This establishes 9 a little above the sweep-line from B. In the same manner sweep for- 
ward from 7 to establish 6, and from 5 to establish 4. Backward of 9 the waist line is shaped 
so as to meet the center-of-back at a right angle as to J. 



VARYING FRONT, SIDE AND BACK LENGTHS 

( Concluded. ) 

DIAGRAMS 73, 74 AND 75. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 26 waist, 42 hip, 41 front length, 
40 side length, and 41 back length. 

The form to be fitted has a prominent stomach, is moderately full at the side hips, 
and moderately flat at the back hips. 

It is desired that the skirt fit smoothly about the hips and hang moderately full about 
the sides. 

TO DRAFT. 

Diagram 73. — Draw a straight line as A E. 
A to B is the side length, 40 inches. 
A to C is the front length, 41 inches. 
B to D is 5j^ inches always. 



laAOIES' TAIbOR-^VlAOF. GAH/WENTS. 



161 



(«)E 




Diagram IZ. 



162 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



B to N is 42 inches. 

B to E is the full size of the waist, 26 inches. (Sweep No. 3.) 

Pivot at E and sweep liackward from B, D, A and N. 

It should be noted that whenever either of the sweeping-points, Nos. 1, 2 or 3, is used, 
and the side length is more or less than 42 inches, then all the points, as 1, 2, 3 G, L and K, 
are established on the sweep-line from N, which is 42 inches below the side length at B. 

D to F is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 

N to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to G and G to L are each 3^ hip, 10^/^ inches. 

L to K is ^ hip, 534 inches. 

Draw a straight line from K through F. This establishes I. 

From just backward of half-way between B and I shape the waist to the front length at 
C. 

For this draft C to I measures 15^2 inches, and as one-half of the full size required at the 
waist is but 13 inches, 15^ inches is 2^ inches too much. This 2yz inches must be 
disposed of between 4 and 5, 6 and 7 and 8 and 9, according to the shape of the form to be 
fitted, which as above described would require that about one-half of it, 1^4 inch, should be 
taken out between 6 and 7, a little more than one-fourth, say ^ inch between 4 and 5, and 
the remaining ^ inch between 8 and 9. This having first been determined, proceed as fol- 
lows: 

C to 4 is J4 waist, 3^ inches. 

From 4 to 5 is 3^ inch as above explained. 

From 5 to 6 is 34 waist, 3^4 inches. 

I to 9 is 34 waist, 3^4 inches. 

From 9 to 8 is 34 inch as above explained. 

From 8 to 7 is 34 waist, 334 inches. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 4 and 5 to 1. This establishes J. 

Draw a straight line from midway between 8 and 9 midway between 3 and G. This es- 
tablishes P. 

J to H is 2 inches, more or less, according to the prominence of the stomach at D. 

is 1 inch less than half-way from H to P. 

Shape the front of the side front gore from 5 to H ; the Ijack edge of the front gore from 
4 to J, and the remaining seams as represented. 

1 to M is the l)ack lengtli, 41 inches. Finish as represented, marking the gore notches 
before cutting. 

The elimination of the quantity between J and H and the hip line will partially help to 
prevent an unsiglitly fold down the center-of-front below the prominence of the abdomen. 
As a further aid proceed as follows: 

Diagram 74. — The pattern for the front gore is first cut as drafted. Then lay it over 
another piece of paper; mark lightly all around it and remove the pattern. As first drafted 
the front gore is defined by the broken lines and points A, D, C, 4, 3 and J. 



laADIES' TAII9OR./VIAOE GAK/V^ENTS. 



163 



A to F is the same as J to H. (Diagram 7^^. ) Draw a slraiglil line from C to F. 

Now, as tlie puri)osc is to change the hang of the gore without changing its widtli, what- 
ever is lost between D and 1 and between A and F must be made good on the back edge of 
the gore. From 3 to 2, therefore, is the same as D to 1, and J to H is the same as A to F. 
Reshape from 4 through 2 to H as represented. 

Diagram 75. — The changed front gore which is represented by the shaded part on Dia- 
gram 74, is represented on this diagram by the broken lines and defined by the corresponding 
points C, 4, 2, H, F and 1. 

The material is cut out on these lines making proper seam allowance, and C to F laid 
on a fold of the material. A strong round must now be forced by the iron on the fold 
edge of the material as at 3, and the round on the side at 2 correspondingly worked forward 
as to 5. 

The requisite front length, in its proper relation to the side length, together with the 
changes above described and the shaping given l\v the iron to the front gore will cause the 
center-of-front to hang below the prominence of the abdomen, straight to the bottom. 




Diagram 75. 



Diagram 74. 



164 THE -STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAITED GORED SKIRT 



DIAGRAM 76. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 3Sy2 front 
length, 40 side length, 41 back length. 

The form to be fitted is medium flat at the front, and full at the side and back 
hips. 

The skirt is to hang moderately plain about the sides, and below the knee-length the 
gore seams are to have side plaits. It is to be 14 gores. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as N E. A to B is the side length, 40 inches. 

A to C is the front length, 38>^ inches. B to D is 5jS^ inches always. 

B to N is 42 inches. (See explanation for Diagram 73 in relation to point N.) 

B to E is as explained for sweeping-point No. 1, 36 inches for this draft. 

Pivot at E and sweep backwards from B, D, A and N. 

D to F is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 

N to K is the full hip, 42 inches. 

Draw a straight line from K through F. This establishes I. 

Shape the waist line from C to J, touching the sweep-line a trifle backward of half-way 
from B to I, and raising a trifle above I crossing the center of back line at a right angle as at J. 

J to M is the back length, 41 inches. Shape the bottom from A through R to M as rep- 
resented. 

For this draft C to J measures, say 18 inches, which is 6 inches more than one-half of 
the full size required. This 6 inches must be taken out at the top of the gore seams accord- 
ing to the shape of the form to be fitted. 

For a 14 gored skirt the front and back gores are each one-fourteenth of the width 
across near the hip line and near the bottom. All the remaining gores are each twice as 
wide as the front gore. 

By taking a quantity near the hip line that can readily be divided by 14, as 21, one- 
fourteenth of which is 1^., this gives 1^ inch for the width of the front and back gores on 
the broken line just below D and F. All the remaining gores are twice as wide, or 3 inches. 

As on the broken line across near the bottom find a distance that can readily be divided 
by 14, as 42. one-fourteenth of which is 3. Make the width of the front and back gores on 
this line each 3 inches. The remaining gores will each be twice as wide, or 6 inches. 

Shape the gores through these divisions. This gives points. 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 
O, P. O, R, S, T and U. 

In accordance with the shape of the form to be fitted the waist surplus of 6 inches, as 
above stated, is divided about as follows: ^ inch between 1 and 2, ^ inch between 3 and 
4, 1 j4 inch between 5 and 6, 1^4 inch between 7 and 8, 1^ inch between 9 and 10, and 1 inch 
between 11 and 12. 



bADIES' TAIbOH-^lAOE GAH^ENTS.* 



165 



®^ 




Diagram 76. 



166 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



Add for the plaits at the bottom ly^ inch, more or less, on each side of O, P, Q, R, S, 
T and U, and at the top of the plait at the desired height below which the plait is to be left 
free, say 1 inch on each side of each gore except the center-of-front and center-of-back. The 
shape of each intermediate gore will then be like the one which is shaded. Above the upper 
end of the plaits the pattern should be cut as for plain seams. The stitching may be con- 
tinued to the band above the top of the plaits, in which case a sufficient amount, say }i inch, 
must be added above the end of the plaits when marking on the material. 

Mark for the notches on each gore seam as represented before cutting the pattern. 

The center-of-front and center-of-back are laid on a fold of the material. 

UHBRELLA SKIRT 

24 GORES. 
DIAGRAM 77. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front length, 
42 side length, and 43 back length. 

The form to be fitted is medium flat at the front, and full at the side and back hips. 
The skirt is without fullness about the hips; hangs plain and close about the knees, 
and with a very decided fullness around the bottom. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A E. 

A to B is the front and side lengths, which in this case, are alike, 42 inches. 

B to C is 5y2 inches always. 

D is half-way from A to B. 

B to E is one and one-half times the full size of waist, 36 inches. (Sweep No. 1.) 

Pivot at E and sweep backwards from B, C, D and A. 

C to F is one-half of the full size of hip, 21 inches. 

A to H is the full hip, 42 inches. 

Draw a straight line from H through F. This establishes I. 

Divide the quantity on the hip line into twelve equal parts. This gives points 1 to 11. 

Divide the quantity between A and H into twelve equal parts. This gives O, P, Q, R, 
S, T, U, V, W, X and Y. 

Draw straight lines from O through 1, from P through 2, and so on from each of the 
lettered points at the bottom through the corresponding numbered points on the hip line. This 
establishes the numbered points on the knee line. 

A to L, O to 23, O to 24, P to 25, P to 26,and O to 27, are each >4 inch less than one-half 
of the width from A to O. 

Point 28 is half-way from Q to R. 29 is half-way from R to S. 30 is half-way from S 
to T. 31 is half-wav from T to U. 32 is half-way from U to V, and 33 is half way from V 
to W. 



feADIES' TAIIaOR-^lAOE GA^^^ENTS. 



167 



f®)E 




27 26 25 2.4 23 V^ 



Diagram 77. 



168 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



W to 35, X to 34, X to Z7 , Y to 36, Y to 3S and H to M are each >4 inch more than half- 
way from X to Y. 

Connect D and L. Connect 12 and 23. Connect 12 and 24. Also connect all the num- 
bered points at the knee with tlie numbered points at the bottom as represented. Connect 
K and M. 

I to M is the back length, which in this case falls on the sweep-line from A. 

For this draft B to I measures 17 inches, which is 5 inches more than one-half of the 
waist size required. This surplus of 5 inches is disposed of according to the prominence of 
the hip as follows : Yi, inch above 3, 3.^ inch above 4, ^ inch above 5, y% inch above 6, ^ 
inch above 7, % inch above 8, ^ inch above 9, Yt inch above 10, and >4 inch above 11. 

There is a seam at the center-of-front and one at the center-of-back. Below the knee- 
length the gores overlap each other as shown by the one which is shaded. From 17 to 30 
and from 18 to 32 are joined respectively to the gores on each side from 17 to 31, and from 18 
to 31. 

Place paper underneath the draft and trace off the gores separately, having first marked 
for the notches as represented. 

CIRCULAR SKIRT WITH FLOUNCE 



DIAGRAM 78. 

THE measures used lor the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 40 front length, 
42 side length, 43 back round length, 48 back train length. 

The form to l)e fitted is medium flat at the front, and full at the side and back 
hips. 

The skirt is to be without fullness on the hip line, but below the hip line it is to fall in 
loose folds at the sides and back. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A B. 

A to B is the side length, 42 inches. 

A to C is the front length, 40 inches. 

B to D is 5j4 inches always. Square backward from B and D. 

B to F and D to E are each ^4 waist, 3 inches. Draw a straight line from E upward 
through F. 

From y<i inch above F to 4 is one-half of the full waist, 12 inches. (Sweep No. 4.) 

From y<^ inch above F to 6 is 1 inch more than one-fourth of the full waist, 7 inches. 

From 6 to 5 is one-third of the distance between 6 and 4. 

Pivot at 4 (Sweeping-point No. 4), and sweep backward from y% inch above F, Y^ inch 
above E, and from A. 

D to G is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 



bAOIES' TAlIaOR.iVlAOE GAH/V\ENTS. 



169 



Draw a straight line from 5 through G. This estabhshes I. 

Shape the waist from C to J as represented, crossing the center-of-baclc at a right angle, 
as to J. 

For this draft C to J measures 14 inches, which is 2 inches more than one-half of the 
full waist required. This 2 inches may be shrunken over the prominence of the hip to fit the 
band, or it may be taken out by one or more darts. 

J to K is the back train length. In this case the back round length falls on the sweep- 
line from A. 

* * * 

The Flounce. — Mark the top edge of the flounce according to taste or style as from L 

to M. Divide the distance from L to i\I into six equal parts. This gives 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15. 

Divide the distance from A to K into six equal parts. This gives 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16. 

In this case it is desired that 10 inches additional size be given to the bottom edge of the 




N » 



Diagram 78. 



170 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



flounce. One-fifth of this, 2 inches, is marked off from 12 to P, Yi inch less, I3/2 inch from 
10 to O. From 8 to N is >^ inch less than 10 to O, 1 inch. 

From 14 to Q is J/2 inch more than 12 to P, 2^ inches, and 16 to R is ^ inch more 
than 14 to Q, 3 inches. 

Cut out the pattern of the skirt on the heavy lines, and cut off the flounce as drafted 
from L to M. 

Lay the flounce section over another piece of paper, and mark around it from A to L to 
7, N and A. Pivot the pattern at 7 and swing 8 over to N. 

Now mark from 7 to 9, which gives 7 to S. Mark from O to N. Pivot at 9 and swing 
10 over to O. 

Mark from 9 to 11, which gives S to T. Mark from P to O. Pivot at 11 and swing 12 
to P. 

Mark from 1 1 to 13, which gives T to U. Mark from Q to P. Pivot at 13 and swing 14 
over to Q. 

Mark from 13 to 15, which gives U to V. Mark from R to Q. Pivot at 15 and swing 
16 to R. 

Mark from 15 to M, which gives V to W. Mark from M to K. This gives W to 21. 
Mark from K to R. . 

The upper edge of the flounce as thus marked is represented by the broken line, and the 
lower edge by points A, N, 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21. Reshape both edges as represented by 
the solid lines. Notch the upper part of the skirt at 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15, and the flounce at 
7, S, T, U and V. 



bAOIES' TAIbOH-^lAOE GARMENTS. 171 



" It is less painful to learn in youth than to be ignorant in old age." 



172 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



CIRCULAR SKIRT WITH DOUBLE TUNIC 



DIAGRAM 79. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist, 42 hip, 42 front length, 
42 side length, 42 back round length, 48 back train length. 

The form to be fitted is medium full at the front, full at the sides, and medium flat 
at the back hips. 

The side is to be without fullness around the hips, but below the hips it is to hang very 
full at the sides and bottom. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A B. 

A to B is the front and side lengths, which in this case are alike, 42 inches. 

From the side length at B to C is 5>4 inches always. Square backward from B and C. 

B to E and C to D are each 34 waist, 3 inches. 

From ys inch above E to 6 is 1 inch more than one-fourth of the full waist, and on U 
4 is one-half of the full waist. 

From 6 to 5 is j/3 of the distance between 6 and 4. 

Pivot at 6 (sweeping-point No. 6), and sweep backward from }i inch above E, and % 
inch above D. Sweep backward from A as per the broken line to N. 

C to F is ]/< inch more than one-half of the full hip, 21i/2 inches. 

Square backward by the line D4 through F. This establishes I. 

I to N is the back round length, 42 inches. 

I to O is the back train length, 48 inches. 

Shape the bottom from A to N, or A to O as required. 

B to I measures, say 1 inch more than one-half of the full size required. This is shrunk 
on to the band. 

Shape the lower edges of the tunics at the depth desired as from J to L and K to M. 

The body of the skirt extends from B to A. The first tunic from B to K, and the sec- 
ond from B to J. The upper edges are secured to the band. The lower edges hang free. 

For a tunic effect, the upper edge of the middle section (above K and M) need extend 
upward under the top section about half-way from C to J, and half-way from F to L. 

The upper edge of the bottom section above A and O may also extend upward under the 
middle section to J and L. 

The back center may be as shown on the diagram, or any desired style of plaiting may be 
added backward of the line I O. 



IsADIES' TAIbOK-iMAOE GA^/VIENTS. 



173 



(i) 



;5^H 




Diagram 79. 



174 THE ♦• STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



PLAITED CIRCULAR SKIRT 



DIAGRAMS 80 AND 81. 

THIS skirt as represented is made with ten plaits on each side. The center-of-front 
and center-of-back are cut on a fold of the material. The plaits extend from the hip 
line to the bottom, and are stitched from the hip line to the knee, more or less as de- 
sired, below which the plaits are left free. 

The measures used are 24 waist, 41 hip, 41^ front length, 43 side length, and 45 back 
length. 

TO DRAFT. 



Diagram 80. — Draw a straight line as A C. 

A to B is the front length, 41 J/ inches. 

A to C is the side length, 43 inches. 

C to D is 42 inches always. 

C to E is Syz inches always. 

Extend the line A C upward and establish sweeping-point No. 1 one and one-half times 
the size of the waist above C. This for a 24 waist is 36 inches. Pivot there and sweep 
backward from C, E, D and A. 

E to F is one-half of the full hip, 20^ inches. 

D to G is the full hip, 41 inches. 

G to H is % hip, scant 3^^ inches. 

Draw a straight line through F and H. This establishes I. 

I to J is the back length, 45 inches. Shape the bottom from A to J as represented. 

As there are ten plaits on each side, divide the skirt in the same manner as for a 20-gored 
skirt with narrow front and back gores as follows: 

Find a place near the hip line which can readily be divided by the number of gores, in 
this case 20, as from K to L, which measures 20 inches. 

Mark ofif on this line 1-20 or 1 inch from K to 1, and the same from L to 10. All the 
remaining parts are 2-20 or 2 inches wide as represented by points 1 to 10. 

Find a place near the bottom which can readily be divided by 20, as from M to N, which 
measures 35 inches. 

Mark off on this line 1-20 of 35 inches, which is l-)4 inch from M to 11, and the same 
from N to 20. All the remaining parts are 2-20 or 33^ inches wide as represented by 
points 11 to 20. 

Draw straight lines from 1 through 11, from 2 through 12, and through points 3, 4, 5, 
6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 as represented. This establishes points 31 to 40 at the bottom. 

Shape the waist from B to I as represented; cut out the .pattern and proceed as follows: 

Diagram 81. — The skirt as drafted (Diagram 80) measures about 38 inches around the 
bottom. This should not be increased to much more than twice the size of the hip, because 
the waist B to I would then be too small. 



bADIES' TAII90H=/V1ADE GAR^IENTS. 



175 




32 ai X 



Diagram 80. 



176 THE " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING 



An allowance of 4^ inches to each of the 10 plaits would give about 83 inches, or a 
trifle more than twice the size of the hip at the bottom, and there would then be but a trifle 
more than one-half of the size of the waist from B to I. 

In this case the allowance for the plaits at the bottom has been fixed at 4 inches, which 
gives a size around the bottom of about 78 inches (one-half of the skirt). 

As it is desirable that the plaits should not be too full at the front of the skirt, the width 
for the middle plait, say between 5 and 35, is fixed at the average width, 4 inches as above. 
The width of the plaits from there towards the front are made, say Ys inch less each one, as 
3j4. inches between 4 and 34, 3^ inches between 3 and 33, and so on. Those at the back 
are increased in like amounts, as 4]/$ inches between 6 and 36, 4^4 inches between 7 and 
37 and so on. 

Having the widths for the plaits determined, proceed as follows: 

Lay the pattern (Diagram 80) over another piece of paper and mark the length B to A 
and from A to 31. Mark the width of the plait, in this case 3}^ inches from 31 to 1, and prick 
through on the hip line at 21. Pivot at 21 and swing 31 over to 1. 

Mark from 31 to 32 and the length above 21. Mark the width of the plait, 3% inches 
from 32 to 2, and prick through 22. Pivot at 22 and swing 32 over to 2. 

Continue on in the same manner, pivoting at all the remaining points on the hip line until 
the last plait between 40 and 10 has been obtained. Then mark from I to J and J to 10 by 
the pattern. 

Any excess of size between B and I is to be shrunk to the size required. 

These skirts are sometimes made with plaits at the center-of-front and back. In such 
case the spaces between the plaits are of equal width. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR^/WAOE GAR/VIENTS. 



177 




01 n 



Diagram 81. 



178 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



OUTER OR UNDER BOXPLAIT 

At Center-of-Back. 

DIAGRAM 82. 

ON tliis diagram is represented the back gore of a skirt with an outer box-plait laid on 
the center-of-back. 

The line Y to Z is the center-of-back. 
Add from Y to 1 whatever it is desired that the full width of the plait shall be at the waist 
line. In this case Y to 1 is 3 inches. 

Z to 2 is 8 inches, more or less as desired. Connect 1 and 2. 

Run a tracer from Y to Z and fold the entire plait forward on this traced line. Then 
fold the edge from 1 to 2 forward until it lies directly over the line Y Z. The part which is 
shaded will then lie under the part not shaded. The unshaded part represents one-half of the 
plait, and from 1 to 2 should be laid on a fold of the material. 

For an outward plait a seam may be placed on the line Y Z if desirable. 

* * * 

For an underfold plait fold the line V Z backward and directly over the line from 1 to 
2. The whole of the plait from Y' to 1 and from Z to 2 will lie underneath the back gore, and 
the two liack gores will be joined by a seam from 1 to 2. 



TWO OUTWARD B0X=PLA1TS AT THE CENTEROFBACK 



DL-VGRAM 83. 

THE line, from Y to Z is the center-of-back. 
The unshaded part below 1 and 2 represents the face of one of the plaits. 
From Y to 3 is three times the width desired for the face of the plait, so that if the 
face is to be 1^/2 inch, then Y to 3 is 4^ inches. 

Z towards 6 is three times the width desired for the face of the plait at the bottom, say 
6 inches. In which case Z towards 6 is 18 inches. 

Draw a straight line from 6 through 3 and extend the line from Z upward past Y 
until it intersects the line just made as at X. 

Pivot at X and sweep backwards from Y and Z. 

X"ow mark on the sweep-line from Y, lyi inch from Y to 1, 1 3/2 inch from 1 to 2, and 
1 j/2 inch from 2 to 3. Also mark on the sweep line from Z, 6 inches from Z to 4, 6 inches from 
4 to 5, and 6 inches from 5 to 6. 

Redraw the line from 3 to 6 according to the positions of these two points as last estab- 
lished on the sweep-lines. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR^/WAOE GAR/WENTS. 



179 



Fold the line from 2 to 5 backwards, until it lies directly over the line from 3 to 6. Now 
fold the whole of the plait forward on the line Y Z. When thus folded the whole of the plait 
will lie on the back gore forward of the line Y Z. 

When cutting the material the line from S to 6 should be laid on a fold. A seam may be 
placed on the line below Y, and the body of the skirt can be fitted to the form independent of the 
plaits. The plaits can then be joined to the body of the skirt on the center-of-back line. 

When the plaits are folded as above explained, cut across the folds from Y forward. 
Shape the bottom from Z to 6 as represented. 



/ 
/ / 



// 




Diagram 83. 



Diagram 82. 



180 THE " STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



THREE OUTWARD B0X=PLA1TS AT THE CENTER-OF-BACK 



DIAGRAM 84. 

THE line Y Z is the center-of-back. 
First determine the width one of the plaits is to be, say V/^ inch at the top and 
4 inches at the bottom. 

From Y towards 5 will then be 5 times l^/^ inch, or 7^/2 inches. And Z towards 10 will 
be 5 times 4 inches, which is 20 inches. 

Extend the line Y Z upwards towards X and draw a light line from 10 through 5 until 
it intersects the line last made as at X. 

Pivot at X and sweep backwards from Y and Z. 

Now mark on the sweep-line one and one-lialf times the widtli of the face of the plait 
at the top. This gives point 1, 2^ inches from Y. From 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 are each the 
width of the face of the plait, 1^ inch. From 4 to 5 is one-half the width of the face of the 
plait, y^ inch. 

Z to 6 is one and one-half times the width of the face of one of the plaits, 6 inches. From 
6 to 7, 7 to 8 and 8 to 9 are each the width of the face of one of the plaits, 4 inches. From 9 
to 10 is one-half the face width of a plait Redraw the line from 5 to 10 according to 
the position of these points as now established on the sweep-lines. 

Fold the line below 4 forward until it lies directly over the line below 3. 

Fold the line below 2 backward over the line below 3. 

Now ffold the whole forward on the line below Y. The whole of the one and one-half 
plaits will then lie on top of the back gore forward of the center-of-back line, the line below 
1 lying over the broken line which is forward of Y. The unshaded parts represent the face 
of one full plait from 1 to 2, and one-half of a plait from 4 to 5. 

Frorn 5 to 10 is laid on a fold of the material. 

A sea,m should be placed below Y. The body of the skirt is first fitted independent of 
the plaits. i The plaits are then joined to the body of the skirt on the center-of-back line. 

When the plaits are folded as above explained, cut across the folds forward of Y. Shape 
the bottoni from Z to 10 as represented. 

i I 

; . ; 

DOUBLE OUTWARD BOX-PLAIT LAID ON THE BACK CENTER 



DIAGRAM 85. 

rE line Y Z is the center-of-back. 
' Y to 1 is 1>^ inch. From 1 to 2 is ^ inch. From 2 to 3 is 1^^ inch. From 3 
to 4 is ^4 iiich. 
When the plaits are folded as hereafter explained, and tlie parts are of the widths as given 
above, there will be one plait Ij^ inch wide lying on another plait 3 inches wide, leaving be- 
tween the fold edges of the two plaits 3/2 inch on each side of the center-of-back. 

First mark from Y to 4 the combined width of all the parts, 1^/2 inch from Y to 1, ^/^ inch 
from 1 to 2, 1 ^ inch from 2 to 3, and -)4 inch from 3 to 4, in all 4^4 inches. 



bADIES' TAII90H»/V1A0E GARMENTS. 



181 




Diagram 84. 



Diagram 85. 



182 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



From Z to 5 is 6 inches. From 5 to 6 is 3 inches. From 6 to 7 is 7 inches. From 
7 to 8 is 33^ inches. In all, from Z to 8 is 193/4 inches. 

Mark first from Z towards 8 the combined width of the parts, 19^^ inches. Then draw 
a light straight line from 8 upward through 4, and extend the center-of-back line upward 
past Y until the two lines intersect as at X. 

Pivot at X and sweep backward from Y and Z. 

Now mark on the sweep-line, from Y, I3/2 inch to 1, 3^ inch to 2, 1^ inch to 3, and -)4 
inch to 4. 

Mark on the sweep-line from Z 6 inches to 5, 3 inches to 6, 7 inches to 7, and 3^ inches 
to 8, and redraw the line from 4 to 8. 

Connect 1 and 5. Connect 2 and 6. Connect 3 and 7. 

Fold the line below 3 forward over the Hne below 2. 

Fold the whole of the plaits forward on the line below Y, then backward on the line be- 
low 1, and press flat. 

The whole of the plaits will now lie forward of the center-of-back with the fold edge of the 
widest plait below 1 lying at the broken line just forward of Y. 

The line from 4 to 8 should be laid on a fold of the material. A seam should be placed 
below Y to Z, and the body of the skirt fitted. The plaits can then be joined to the body of 
the skirt on the center-of-back-line Y Z. 

When the plaits are folded as above explained, cut across the folds forward of Y. 
Shape the bottom from Z to 8 as represented. 



bADIES' TAIbOR./WAOE GAR/WENTS. 183 



" Read attentively, think earnestly, and you will acquire knowledge rapidly." 



184 THE " STANDARD " ItfORK ON CpXTING 



CROSS-SADDLE R1DINQ=SK1RT WITH APRON FRONT 



DIAGRAM 86. 

THE measures by which the accompanying diagram was drafted are as follows: 24 
waist, 41 hip, 12 hip-rise, 39 front length, 40 side length and 40 back length. The hip- 
rise is taken from the waist at the side to the top of the chair seat when the lady is 
seated. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as A G. 

A to B is y^ waist, 12, on the divisions of Thirds, 4 inches. 

A to C is the full waist, 24 inches. 

C to E is 5y2 inches. 

C to G is the side length, 40 inches. 

G to D is the front length, 39 inches. 

Pivot at A and sweep backwards from C and E, and forward and backward from G. 

C to F is ^ inch more than the hip-rise, 12^ inches in all. Square forward from F. 

F to K is J/^ inch more than Yf, hip, 3% inches. 

F to 1 is i/^ hip, 3}i inches. 

G to 2 is 1 inch more than F to K, 4% inches. 

Connect K and 2. 

From 2 to L is 1 3/2 inch. 

Shape from D to K, L and G as represented. 

E to H is one-half of full hip, 20^ inches. 

Draw a straight line from B through H. This establishes I, 

I to J is the back length, 40 inches. 

Point 9 is half-way from E to H. 

O is half-way from E to 9. 

P is half-way from 9 to H. Point 10 is half-way from G to J. 

M is half-way from G to 10. N is half-way from 10 to J. 

Draw straight lines from M through O, from 10 through 9, and from N through P. 

Shape the waist line from above 9 to D. 

Measure the waist from D to I, and whatever the distance is found to be more than one-half 
of the full size required, the difiference is taken out by the darts according to the shape of the 
form to be fitted. In this case the form is medium flat at the front and full at the side and 
back hips. And, as the total amount to be taken out by the darts is 4^/2 inches, about 34 oi 
it, say 1 inch, is taken out by the first dart. This gives 3 and 4. The remaining Sy^ 
inches is divided equally between the remaining darts. This gives 5, 6, 7 and 8. 

Pivot at P and sweep forward from 8 to equalize the length from P to 7. Pivot at 9 
and sweep forward from 6 to equalize the length from 6 to 5. Pivot at O and sweep forward 
from 4 to equalize the length from O to 3, and shape the waist line and the darts as repre- 
sented. 



feADIES' TAIbOR^iVlAOE GARMENTS. 



185 




:g^ a 



Diagram 86. 



186 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



Seams are placed below O and P. 

The opening is from 4 to 11, which is lOyl inches deep. A facing is added to the front 
of the side gore from 4 to 11, 1^4 inch wide. 

I towards Q is 5 inches. 

J towards R is 12 inches. Connect Q and R. 

Fold the line I J backward directly over the line Q R. This gives the line of the under 
fold from 12 to 13, and establishes Q directly under I, and R directly under J. The shaded 
part now lies all forward of the line I J. Cut across the fold as from 8 to I and open out the 
fold. 

Q to 14 is ^ hip, 3^ inches. 

From 14 to S is the same as C to F. Square backward from S. 

S to T, S to 15 and R towards U are each ^ hip, Sys inches. 

T to U is the same as K to L. 

Finish as represented. 

This forms one leg, or one-half of the skirt. The line K L sews on to the line T U. 

The Apron. — The apron is represented by the upper shaded diagram. It is cut by the 
front gore from D to G, M, 3 and back to D. This is laid on a fold of the material from 
D to G. The right side is sewed in with the front gore from 11 to M, and the buttons are 
placed as represented. On the left side of the apron buttonholes are worked to match the 
buttons. When the lady is mounted the left side of the apron is buttoned over to the right 
side. When dismounted the left side of the apron is buttoned down on the left side of the 
skirt over buttons which are placed in position corresponding with those on the other side. 

If a narrower front gore and apron are desired, the seam from 3 to M may be placed as 
much forward of its position on the diagram as required. 



IsAOIES' TAIbORciVlAOE GAR/WENTS. 



187 




188 THE " STANDARD " WOHK ON CUTTING 



SAFETY 5IDE=SADDLE SKIRT 

diagrams 87 and 88. 
The Front. 

DIAGRAM 87.— Draw a straight line as A D. 
A to B is 22ys inches; to C is 41 inches, and to D is 64^ inches. 
Square upward and downward from B and C. 

B to E is 24 inches ; to 1 is 34^ inches, and to 2 is 37^4 inches. 

Square forward and backward from 2. 

Pivot at E and sweep forward and backward from 1. 

From 1 to F and 1 to G are each 1 inch. 

From 2 to 3 is 5 inches. From 2 to I is 6^ inches. 

Square upward from I and downward from 3. 

From 3 to H is 1^ inch. Connect A and H. H to J is 10 inches. 

Shape from FI through J to A, passing ^ inch forward of 5, and from H to G, E, F and 
I as represented. 

B to 4 is 4% inches. C to 6 is 4% inches. Shape from A to D as represented. 

C to 7 is 28J/2 inches, and to K is 31^ inches. 

Square forward from 7 and backward from K. 

K to 8 is 8 inches. Square upward from 8. 

From 8 to L is 2^ inches. 

From 7 to M is 7>4 inches; to 9 is 10^4 inches, and to N is 12j^ inches. 

Shape from I through L K and M to N, passing % inch below 9 as represented. 

Draw a straight line from N to D. 

K to 10 is 7^4, inches, and to O is 11^ inches. 

I to 11 is 1^ inch, and to 12 is 4^4 inches. 

Square backward from 12. From 12 to P is ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from 11 through 10. From 10 to Q is 9}i inches. 

Connect 12, O, Q and K, and shape from P through O, rounding outward }^ inch be- 
tween O and Q as represented. 

K to 13 is 5 inches. From 13 to R is 2^^ inches. 

From 14 to S is 3 inches. Shape from I through S, K and R to O as represented. 

The top of the knee is at Z, which is 3^4 inches forward of 7. 

The center-of-f ront is at Y, which is 1 J^^ inch backward of I. 

The opening is from E to F. Make notches at K. 

H A is the left side and sews to Z R on the backpart. 



bAOIES' TAII9OR--/VIAOE GAR/WENTS. 



189 



-^f—--^'" 




Diagram 87. 



D 



SAFETY srDESADDLE SKIRT 

(Concluded.) 
The Backpart. 

lAGRAM 88.— Square the line A C and A7. 

A to 1 is 9 inches; to 2 is 15 J/2 inches; to 3 is 18J^ inches; to 4 is 20^^ inches; 
to B is 23y8 inches ; to 5 is 29^ inches ; to 6 is 34^^ inches, and to C is 503^2 inches. 
Square across from 1, 2, 3, 4, B, 5, 6 and C. 

A to D is 23j/^ inches, and to 7 is 26}^ inches. Square downward from 7. 
From 7 to E is K)4 inch. 

From 1 to F is 15 inches, and to G is 24 inches. 
From 2 to H is 4^/2 inches. 
From 3 to I is 2^ inches. 



190 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



From 4 to J is 9^ inches, and to K is ISj/i inches. 

B to L is 2 inches, and to M is 9^ inches. 

From 5 to N is 7^ inches, and to O is 17 inches. 

From 6 to P is 16^ inches. 

C to 8 is 16^ inches, and to 9 is 32^ inches. 

Square upward from 8 and 9. 

From 8 to Q is 2^4 inches. 

From 9 to R is 3>^ inches; to 12 is 38^ inches; to 13 is 42 inches; to 14 is 43^ inches; 

to 15 is 44^ inches, and to 16 is 45^ inches. 

Square both ways from 12 and 13, and forward from 14, 15 and 16. 

From 10 to S is 3^/^ inches. From 10 to T is 143^ inches. 

From 11 to U is 5^ inches. From 11 to V is 9j4, inches. 

From 12 to W is 1^ inch, and to X is 8 inches. 

From 12 to Y is 5^ inches. 

From 13 to 17 is 1^ inch, and to Z is 8^^ inches. 

From 13 to 18 is 3^ inches. 

From 14 to 19 is 5^4 inches. 

From 15 to 20 is 3 inches. 

From 16 to 21 is ^ inch. 

Connect D, F, H, J, I, L, N, B, C, Q, P, O, K, G, E and D by straight lines, and shape 

as represented, hollowing ^4 inch between D and F, % inch between F and H, rounding }i 

inch between H and J, I/2 inch between J and I, j4 inch between I and L, J^ inch between L 

and N, and hollowing i/^ inch between N and B. 

Hollow 34 inch between O and K, ^ inch between K and G, and fill in ^ inch between 

G and E. 

Connect Q, R, S, U, X, Z, 19, W, 20, 21, 18, Y, V, T and P by straight lines, and shape 

as represented, hollowing 34 inch between R and S, and rounding outward ^ inch between 

U and X. 

A loop is sewed on near M. This loop is adjusted over a button near 17 when the lady 

is dismounted. 

Z to R is the left side and sews to H A on the front. 

D H sews to P O on the front. 

The center-of-back is at 19 and 20. 

This skirt may be made a " Safety" by adjusting the seam below E and 21 with snap 

fasteners. 

Allow for all seams when cutting the material. 

The skirt represented by the two diagrams is for a proportionate form of 24 waist, 41 

hip. 

* * * 

Note. — Produce a block pattern as above explained, and use the same pattern for all 
sizes, by first duplicating it on other paper and increasing or decreasing below F and P on 
Diagram 87, and below D and Z on Diagram 88, each one-fourth of the difference required 
in size. 



bAOIES' TAIbOH-AlAOE GARMENTS. 



191 




Diagram 88. 



192 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



N1NE=Q0RED PLAITED SKIRT 



DIAGRAM 89. 

THE skirt represented by the accompanying sketch is drafted according to the measures 
as explained for the preceding diagrams for gored skirts. This is introduced to show 
how the efifect is produced, after the several lengths and full width have been ob- 
tained. 

The line I T is the center-of-back. The sketch shows nine gores with a narrow front 
gore, and the lines must be drawn on the draft representing the gore-seams, the edges of each 
plait, strap, etc., the same as on the design to be carried out, giving to each part its appro- 
priate width as represented. 

First find a place on or near the hip line that can most readily be divided by 
9, the number of gores required. Supposing one-half of the full hip is 21 inches, then 1-9 
of 21 would give 2j/j inches for the front gore width, and Ayi inches for the width of the re- 
maining gores. But as it is better to avoid such fractions as ^ of an inch, take, say 2^^ 
inches for the front gore. This multiplied by 9 gives 22>^ inches. Now lay the drafting- 
square across the draft where it measures 22>< inches as from 1 to 6, and mark off 
point 2, which is 2>^ inches from 1. From 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 5 and 5 to 6 will then be twice 
the width of the front gore, 5 inches each. 

Divide the quantity as between 7 and 12 in the same manner to establish 8, 9, 10 and 11. 

Draw straight lines through 2 and 8, 3 and 9, 4 and 10, and 5 and 11 to establish 13, 14, 
15 and 16 at the bottom. 

Work out the darts as heretofore instructed. 

The sketch shows that there are side plaits and under box-plaits below the knee length. 
So first fix the widths between the plaits to conform with the design, and establish 21, 22 
23, 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28 as represented. 

From these points draw the lines to the top at the width desired for the top of the straps, 
which run from the waist line to the top of the plaits. 

Next establish the top of the plaits as represented on the sketch. This gives points 
17, 18, 19, 20, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33. 34, 35 and 36. 

The plaits are left open at the bottom as from M to 21, etc. Mark across at the height 
desired as from M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, U, V, W X and Y. 

]\Iark for the notches as represented below 2, 3, 4 and 5. Also mark for the notches in 
the plaited sections as represented. 

The under fold plait which in this case is laid in the back center can be made any de- 
sired width. For this draft it is 2^^ inches wide from I to 37, and 6 inches from T to 38. 
The plait should first be folded, bringing the line I T directly over the line from 37 to 38. 
Then cut across the fold at the top. At the bottom 38 will lie under T. Mark through T by 
a tracer to establish 38 ; open out the fold and cut from 38 by a fair line through T. 

The pattern is now in condition for cutting. 

First trace ofif any applied pieces, as straps, etc. One strap in this case will be sufficient, 
as all are alike. 



bAOIES' TAIbOR-^lAOE GAH^ENTS. 



193 



Next place another piece of paper underneath the draft and trace ofif the front gore, 
marking the notches and point M as represented on Diagram 90. Remove the draft and add 
one-half of a side plait from M to 21 of any desired width. In this case the plait is 1 inch 
wide at M and lYz inch at 21. 

Now trace off in the same manner the remaining gores. 

The side front gore is represented on Diagram 92 to which one-half of a side plait is 
added below O and P of the same width as that below M on the front gore. 

The side or middle gore, and the side back gore are treated in the same manner as the 
side front gore. 




22 13 21 



Diagram 89, 



194 



THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



The back gore will have one-half of a side plait added below Y. 

The plaited parts below 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 and 36 can now be cut out as drafted, 
marking for the notches before cutting. Then take the first section to be plaited below 29 
and proceed as follows: 

Take another piece of paper and form the box-plait below N, first drawing a straight 
line as from the central N to the central 13 on Diagram 91. Place 2 inches to the right and 
left of N, and 3 inches to the right and left of 13, and connect the points by straight lines. 

Fold N and 13 at the left forward over the central N and 13, and N and 13 at the right 
backward over the central N and 13. This brings the three points marked N together, 
also the three marked 13. 

Now lay the first section, 21, 22. 29 and 30, on Diagram 89, with the line 17 to 13 over the 
central line of the folded box-plait, and mark all around it from 29 to 30, 22, 21 and back to 
29. 

Mark for the notches, also points M and O. Add on each side 1 inch at M and O, 
and V/z inch at 21 and 22, and cut the Section across the folds of the paper. On opening out 
the folds the pattern will then appear as on Diagram 91. Cut out all that part above 
and between the points marked N and 17. 




bADIES' TAIl90H = ^\A0E GAF^ENTS. 



195 




2Q 22 

Diagram 92. 



22 13 18 13 21 21 

Diagram 91. Diagram 90. 



196 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



E1QHT=G0RED PRINCESS SKIRT 



T 



DIAGRAM 93. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 24 waist 42 hip, 40 front length, 
42 side length, 44 back length, with 8 inch train, and 38 bust. 

TO DRAFT. 



Draw a straight line as A E. 

A to B is the side length, 42 inches. 

A to C is the front length, 40 inclies. 

B to D is 5^ inches always. 

B to E is the size of the waist, 24 inches. 

B to H is 8^ inches, or the length from under tlie arm to the waist at the side. 

Pivot at E and sweep Ijackward from H, B, D and A as represented by the broken lines. 

D to F is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 

A to G is the full hip, 42 inches. 

G to K is one-fourth of the full hip, or 3/2 bip, 21 on the divisions of Halves. 

Draw a straight line through F and K. This establishes 10. 

I is in this case ^ inch above 10. 

Shape the waist line from C to I, touching the sweep-line o\'er the most prominent part 
of the hip as represented. 

For this draft C to I measures \(^ inclies, or 4 inches more than one-half of the full 
waist. This 4 inches is to Ije taken out between N, O, P, Q, R and S according to the flat- 
ness or prominence of the hips as ex])lained for the preceding diagrams. In this case Yz inch 
is allotted between N and O, Ij^ inch 1jet\\-ccn P and Q, and the remaining 2 inches between 
R and S, as the form is very full at the Ijack hips, and medium flat at the front. 

Having this determined in advance proceed as follows: 

C to N is 14 waist, 3 inches, and N to O is ' < inch as above. 

O to P is the same as C to N, and P to O is Ij/^ inch as above. 

Q to R is the same as C to N, and R to S is 2 inches as above. 

S to I is the same as C to N. 

A to 11 is j/? hip, 7 inches. 

From 11 to 12 and 12 to 13 are each ^ hip, 14 inches. 

Draw straight lines from midway between N and O, P and Q, and R and S through 11, 
12 and 13 respectively. 

Draw a line upward from T parallel with tlic l>roken line from G through F. This gives 
J. J to 2 is 1 inch. Connect 2 and T. 

Point 1 is 2 inches forward of H. Connect 1 and C. 

From 1 to 2 the finished draft must measure 1 inch more than one-half of the full bust, 



IsADIES' TAIl30R-i\\ADE GAI^/VIENTS. 



197 




Diagram 93. 



198 THE "STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 



20 inches. This 20 inches is divided equally among the several parts, and as there are four 
parts, each will be 5 inches. 

From 2 to 3 is therefore 5 inches. Connect 3 and R. Connect 3 and S. 

, From 3 to 6 is 5 inches. Connect 6 and Q. 

From 1 to 4 is 5 inches. Connect 4 and N. 

Point 5 is midway between 3 and 4. Connect 5 and P. 

From 5 to 7 is 5 inches. Connect 7 and O. 

Shape the top to taste or style as from V to W. 

Shape the back center from I through F, passing 3 or more inches backward of K as 
represented. 

I to M is the back length 44 inches, and 8 inches more or less for train. 

Shape the bottom first by a graceful line from A to M. 

This gives for this draft 60 inches from A to M, and may be enlarged to the re- 
quired size by overlapping the bottom of the gore seams as represented. For this draft 
it is desired that one-half of the bottom shall measure 2 yards or 72 inches. One-half of the 
difference of 12 inches is divided equally on each side of 12, and the remaining 6 inches 
equally on each side of 13. 

Shape the seam edges as represented. This establishes 20, 21, 22 and 23. 



FIFTEEN=QORED PLAITED PRINCESS WALKING SKIRT 



T 



DIAGRAM 94. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows: 24 waist, 41 hip, 
38^ front length, 40 side length, 41 back length, 8>4 side waist length from under 
the arm, 38 bust. 

TO DRAFT. 



Draw a straight line as F G, and establish a point as at A. 

A to E is the side length, 40 inches. 

A to F is 42 inches always. 

E to B is the front length, 38^^ inches. 

A to C is 5^ inches always. 

A to G is the side waist length, 8^ inches. 



bADlES' TAllaOR-MADE GAR/WENTS. 199 



Establish the top of the plaits as at D, say 12 inches below A. 

Extend the line E G upward, and mark the sweeping-point one and one-half times the 
size of the waist above A, which m this case is 36 inches. Pivot at this point, and sweep 
backward from G, A, C, D, E and E. 

C to H is one-half of the full hip, 20/2 inches. 

E to J is the full hip, 41 inches. 

J to K is yt, hip, about 3^ inches. 

Draw a straight line from K through H. This establishes L and M. 

L to 25 is the back length, 41 inches. Shape the bottom from E through 25 as repre- 
sented. 

Shape the waist line from B to L as represented by the light solid line, touching the 
sweep-line from A at the side of the waist at about point V. 

L to I is /} inch. 

Measure the waist line from A to I, which in this case measures 18 inches. This is 6 
inches more than one-half of the size required, which is 12 inches. This surplus is to be taken 
out on the waist line and must be adjusted according to the prominence of the form on the 
hip line. This should be noted when the measures are taken. 

In this case the form to be fitted is medium flat in front, full at the side, and medium full 
at the back hip. Nothing is, therefore, taken out at the first gore seam, point N, and the 6 
inches of surplus is taken out at the six remaining seams. This, if divided equally, would be 
1 inch on each of the six seams. But such a division would not give an approximately 
right disposition of the waist surplus. This should be calculated and determined now and 
memoranda made about as follows, having in mind the hip development of the form to be 
fitted, say Yz inch between O and P, ^ inch between Q and R, % inch between S and T, 
11/2 inch between U and V, 1^/ inch between W and X, and Ji inch between Y and Z. 

Having made this calculation, the width of the gores on the waist line must also be 
determined, as each should be as nearly of the same width as possible, excepting the front 
gore, which is one-half the width of the other gores. 

In this case there are 7 wide gores and 1 narrow gore on each side, making it 15 gores. 
The width of the front gore is fixed as nearly as convenient at one-fifteenth of one-half of the 
full waist, say % inch. Avoiding unimportant fractions, the widths of the remaining gores 
may be fixed about as follows: The two next to the front gore each lyz inch, and the re- 
maining 5 gores at \s/^ inch each. We then have one J4, inch wide, two of li/< inch each, 
which gives 3 inches, and five of l.Vs inch each, which gives S:% inches. (^+3+8>^ = 12, 

one-half size of waist.) 

The widths of the gores and the disposition of the waist surplus being thus determined, 
proceed as follows : 

B to N is % inch. N to O is 1^^ inch. 

O to P is >4 inch. P to O is 1^ inch. 

Q to R is 3/:^ inch. R to S is lYs inch. 

S to T is ^ inch. T to U is 1-^ inch. 

U to V is 1^4 inch. V to W is l^x^ inch. 

W to X is 1 J^ inch. X to Y is 1 S/^ inch. 



200 THE "STANDARD" WOHK ON CUTTING 



Y to Z is % inch. This leaves 1 y& inch from Z to I. 

Find a place across the skirt as near the bottom as can be conveniently divided by the 
number of gores, which in this case are 15, as from 1 to 9, which measures 30 inches. One- 
fifteenth of this, which is 2 inches, gives pOint 2, and from 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 5, 5 to 6, 6 to 7, 
7 to 8 and 8 to 9 are each twice the width of the front gore, 4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from N through 2. This gives 10 and 18. 

Draw straight lines from midway between O and P, Q and R, S and T, U and V, W and 
X and Y and Z, through 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 respectively. This gives the points 11 to 16 and 

19 to 24. 

Add one-half of a plait on the sides of the gores as represented, say 1 inch wide at 
the top on each side of 10, 11, 12, etc., and 2 inches on each side of 18, 19, 20, etc. 

Shape the seams below the waist line and add for the back plait, say, 2 inches from 17 
to 26 and 4 inches from 25 to 27. 

The upper waist section is drafted as follows: 

M to 30 is 1 inch. Connect 30 and I. 

The width from 34 to 30 must now be enlarged to 1 inch more than one-half of the 
full bust, 20 inches, (38^2=19+1=20). This is accomplished by overlapping the gores in 
front of the side waist, as represented. The front gore is made as near as convenient to 
one-fifteenth of the above 20 inches, say 1^8 inch, and the remaining gores are twice as 
wide as the front gore, or as neary so, so that all parts between 34 and 30 will measure 20 
inches, or 1 inch more than one-half of the full bust. The 7 remaining parts, if made 
each 2^4 inches wide, when added to the width of the front gore would give 20^ inches in all. 
So we will make two of them 2f4 inches wide and five 2^ inches. Having made this cal- 
culation, proceed as follows: 

From 30 to 31 is 2.)4 inches. Connect 31 with Z and Y. 

From 31 to 32 is 2^ inches. Connect 32 with X and W. 

From 32 to 33 is 2^73 inches. Connect 33 with V and U. 

G to 41 is the same as B to N. 

From 41 to 34 is 2 inches. Connect 34 and N. 

G to 35 is the width of the front-gore, l^'s inch. Connect 35 and N. 

From 34 to 36 is 2^ inches as above. Connect 36 and O. 

From 36 to 37 is the same as O to O. Connect 37 and Q. 

From 37 to 38 is the same as O to S. Connect 38 and S. 

From 33 to 39 is 2 5^ inches as above. Connect 39 and T. 

From 39 to 40 is 2ys inches as alcove. Connect 40 and R. 

From 37 to Nl is 2}i inches as above. Connect Nl and P. 

Sweep from P to O, R to O, T to S, U to V, X to W and Z to Y, pivoting respectively at 
11, 12, etc.; notch all the points on the waist line, and mark for the gore notches below as 
represented. 

The tops of the gores are now shaped approximately to the desired style as from 28 to 
29, and the lengths of the joining edges are equalized above the waist line. 



bADIES' TAII9OH-/VIAOE GAI^ENTS. 



201 




Diagram 94. 



202 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



THREE-GORED SKIRT 



T 



DIAGRAM 95. 

HIS skirt fits smoothly about the hips, but has a decided fuUness below. It has an 
underfolding plait at the center-of-back and a box-plait at the side. To produce the 
desired fullness sweeping-point No. 4 is used. 

The measures used are 24 waist, 42 hip, 41j/^ front length, 43 side length and 44 back 



length. 



TO DRAFT. 



Draw a straight line as A C. A to B is the front length, 41^ inches. 

A to C is the side length, 43 inches. C to D is S^^ inches. 

Square backward from C and D. 

C to E and D to F are each j4 waist, 3 inches. 

Draw a straight line from F upward through E. 

F to G and E to H are each ys inch. 

H to J is one-half of the full waist, 12 inches. 

11 to K is 1 inch more than 3^2 waist, 7 inches. 

K to L is 5^ of the distance between K and J. 

Pivot at J and sweep backward from A, G and H. ( Sweeping Point No. 4. ) 

From D following the sweep-line to M is one-half of the full hip, 21 inches. 

Draw a straight line from L through M. This establishes N. 

Shape the waist line from B to O as represented. 

O to P is the back length, 44 inches, which, in this case falls on the sweep-line from A. 

Draw a straight line as from 1 to 2 about parallel with D M, passing through the hip line 
as represented. 

Point 3 is half-way from 1 to 2. From 3 to Q is 2 inches. 

A to R is 2 inches more than twice the distance from D to Q. (D to Q being, say 9J/^ 
inches, then A to R is 21 inches). 

Draw a straight line from R through Q. This establishes 4. 

Point 5 is half-way from B to 4, and 6 is half-way from 4 to O. 

Measure the waist from B to O and divide the surplus on each side of 4, 5 and 6 accord- 
ing to the prominence of the hips as heretofore explained. 

Shape the darts as represented. 

O towards S is 3j^ inches. P to U is 8 inches, more or less, as desired. 

Cut the pattern on the line S U and fold the plait, the line O P folding over the line S U. 

When thus folded cut across on the waist line. On opening out the plait it will be as 
represented from O to S. 

S to T is 3^ inch less than O to P. 

Make the height of the side plait as required, say 25 inches. Add 3 parts each 1 inch 
wide at the top of the plait, and 2 inches at the bottom tp the side seam of the front gore, and 
1 part of the same width to the side seam of the back gore as represented. 



bADIES' TAII9OH-/VIAOE GAH^\ENTS. 



203 




Diagram 95. 



204 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



NOTES. 

A GORED skirt is one having one or more seams on each side. 
A circular skirt is one without seams at the sides. 
A three-gored skirt has one front and two side gores, one seam on each side. 

A four-gored skirt has one front, two sides and one back gore, two seams on each side. 

A five-gored skirt has one front, two side and two back gores, two seams on each side, 
and one at the back center. 

A six-gored skirt has one front, two sides, two side-back, and one back gore, three seams 
on each side. 

A seven-gored skirt has one front, two sides, two' side-back, and two back gores, three 
seams on each side. 

An eight-gored skirt has one front, two side-front, two side, two side-back, and one 
back gore, four seams on each side. 

A nine-gored skirt has one front, two side-front, two side, two side-back, and two back 
gores, four seams on each side. 

Skirts are cut with as many gores as desired, according to style. 

They may be fitted to the band by darts, tucks or gathers. When the waist fullness is 

not too great, it may be shrunk to fit the band. 

* * * * 

In all cases the waist seam should be shaped so as to cross the center-of-back at a right 
angle. This sometimes necessitates raising point I from ^4 to J^ inch above the sweep-line 
at I as is shown on Diagram 93. 



bftDIES' TAlbOR-inflDE 6ARAIENTS. 205 



APPENDIX 



206 THE "STANDAHD" WORK ON CUTTING 



RIDING BREECHE5 



T 



DIAGRAMS 96 AND 97. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as follows : 

11>4 hip-rise, 24 waist, 

24 waist to knee-cap, * 40 seat, 

26j4 to small-of-knee, 15 bent-knee, 

301^ to calf, 

Z7 full length. 



1334 small-of-knee, 
15 calf, 
10 bottom. 



The hip-rise is taken from the side-waist to chair-seat, when the lady is seated. The 
seat is taken dose over the largest part. 

Diagram 96. — Draw a straight line as A F. 

A to B is the hip-rise, 11 3/2 inches. 

A to C is to the knee-cap, 24 inches. 

A to D is to the small-of-knee, 26j^ inches. 

A to E is to the calf, 30^ inches. 

A to F is the full length, Z7 inches. 

Square each way from A, B, C, D, E and F. 

B to H and B to I are each J4 seat, 5 inches. 

I to K is 34 ii^ch more than y^ seat, 2^ inches. Square upward from I. 

I to S is 34 seat, 3^ inches! Connect S and K. 

A to L is ^ inch less than 3^ waist, 534 inches. 

A to M is 3^ seat, 2^ inches. 

N is half-way between L and M. Connect N and B. 

N to O is 434 inches. 

L to P and M to R are each ^ waist, 3 inches. 

M to Q is ^ inch. 

H to J is 34 seat, 234 inches. 

Shape from Q to J, Q to R, O and P, from P Yi inch below L, and from L through S to K, 
hollowing y\ inch between S and K as represented. 

C to 1 is 1 inch. 

Draw a straight line from B through 1 to establish 2, 3 and 4. 

From 2 to 6 is the small-of-knee, 1334 on the divisions of Eighths, 1^4 inch. Connect 
J and 6 to establish 5. 

From 5 to T is 1 inch less than one-half of the bent-knee, 634 inches. 

From 6 to U is ^ inch more than the small-of-knee, 1334 on the divisions of Thirds, 
4% inches in all. 

Square downward from 6 to establish 7. 

From 7 to V is the calf, 15 on the divisions of Thirds, 5 inches. 

Shape from J through 5, 6 and 7, and from K through T, U and V, and add ^ inch be- 
low 7 and V as to 8 and W as represented. 



bAOIES' TAIIaOH-AlAOE GA^A^ENTS. 



207 



X P N R ^ 




F 4 

Diagram 96. 



208 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON COTTINS 



Add an overlap ^ inch wide from 3/2 inch above 7 to opposite 8. ■ 

The top buttonhole is Yz inch below 6. The four buttonholes below are 1 inch apart. 

Notch Yz inch above 6 and U. Notch 2 inches above 5 and T. 

The Continuation. — From 4 to 9 and F to X are each J4 inch. Shape from 7 to 9 
and V to X and continue the overlap from opposite 7 to opposite 9 as represented. 

The buttonholes are evenly spaced. 

The Fly. — Should it be desired that the opening be at the front instead of at the sides 
proceed as follows : 

Lay the pattern over another piece of paper and mark by it across the top from L to 
P, and from L to K as represented by the broken lines on the small diagram at the right. 

Mark for the notch 1^ inch from K. 

Point 3 is ^ inch above the broken line and about 3^ inches from 1. 

Shape as represented, hollowing J4 inch from the broken line opposite 2. Opposite 2 
the fly is 2 inches wide. 

Diagram 97. — Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper. The fore- 
part is represented by the part which is shaded. 

Points B, J, K, L, Q, T, U, V, W, X, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are the same as on the preceding 
diagram. 

Extend the lines through J, T, 5, U, 6, V, and 7. 

T to IS is 14 inch. U to 17 is ^ inch. V to 20 is Y% inch. 

T to 5 and 15 to 16 is the bent-knee, 15 inches. 

U to 6 and 17 to 18 is the small-of-knee, 13^4 inches. 

V to 7 and 20 to 19 is the calf, 15 inches. 

Pivot at T and sweep forward from K. 

K to 13 is i/^ inch more than 1-12 seat, 2j4 inches. 

L to 1 is ^ seat. 25/2 inches. 

Draw a straight line from K through 1. From 1 to 2 is i^ seat, 5 inches. 

Pivot at T and sweep backwards from Q. 

From 2 to 11 is 1 inch less than ^ hip, 9 inches. 

Point 4 is half-way from 2 to IL 

From 2 to 3 and 11 to 10 are each >4 waist, 3 inches. 

Connect 4 and B. From 4 to 12 is 6 inches. 

J to 14 is 1-12 seat, about L)4 inch. 

Shape as represented by the heavy lines, and when the opening is to be at the sides in- 
stead of at the front, add I14 inch button-stand below 11 extending to within 2 inches of 14. 
Add a 1 inch button-stand from 1^4 inch above 18 extending to 19. 

Make notches 2 inches above 15 and 16, and 1^ inch above 17 and 18. 

The Continuation.— Extend the lines through W and 8. 

X to 24 is Yz inch. 

X to 9 and 24 to 23 is Y2 inch more than the bottom, 10^ inches in all. 

Shape from 21 to 22, from 21 through 23, and from 22 through 24 as represented. 

From 21 to 25 is the same as 7 to 9. From 22 to 26 is the same as V to X. 

Shape from 25 to 26 as represented. 

Allow for all seams when cutting the material. 



laADIES' TAIbOH^/VlADE GARiViENTS. 



209 




Diagram 97. 



210 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



KNEE BREECHES 



DIAGRAM 98. 

THE measures used for the accompanying: diagram are as follows: 12 hip-rise, 24 
length to knee-cap, 26 to small-of-knee, 30 side-length, 26 waist, 42 seat, 15 bent-knee, 
133^ small-of-knee, 143^ bottom. 
The hip-rise is taken from the waist at the side to the top of the chair seat when the 
lady is seated. The waist is taken close. The seat is taken close over the largest part. The 
bent-knee, small-of-knee, and bottom are taken close over the stocking. 

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. 

Square the Hues A X and A E. 

A to B is the hip-rise. A to C is 1 inch more than the length to knee-cap. A to D is 
1 inch more than to the small-of-knee, and A to E is 1 inch more than tlie side length. Square 
the cross lines from B, C, D and E. 

B to H is Yi seat. F is half-way between B and H, and G is half-way between F and H. 
Square upward and downward from F to establish K and P. Square upward from G. 

GtoMis^seat. Connect H and M. N is half-way between M and H. Connect G 
and N. N to O is ^ inch. 

K to X is 14 waist. X to L is i/^ and )/% waist. The above ]/?, waist is taken out by a 
dart distributed equally on each side of K as from 2 to 3. 

Siiape from X through M and O to H as represented. 

X to J is yi inch. Shape the sideseam from L to B, and the dart as represented. 

P to I is 1>< inch. Draw a straight line from F through I to establish Q and Z. 

I to R and I to S are each ^4 of the full size at the bent-knee. 

Q to T and Q to U are each ^ of the full size at small-of-knee. 

Z to V and Z to \\' are each ^4 of the full size at bottom. 

Connect B and S, H and R. Shape from B to W and from H to V as represented. 
Shape the bottom from W to V, rounding ^4 inch below Z, and cut out the pattern, making 
notches at B, S and R. 

TO DRAFT THE BACKPART. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart over another piece of paper and mark lightly around it. 

Pivot at B and sweep from ^ inch above L towards 6. Pivot at R and sweep from H 
towards 9. Pivot at S and sweep from B towards 8, and from 13 towards 7. 

Extend the cross lines at the knee-cap, small-of-knee and bottom. 

Y is half-way from G to J, and 13 is half-way from A to B. Connect B and T. 

Square upward from Y by the line B to Y towards 16. K to 16 is ^ seat. 

From 16 towards 4 is 5^ waist. From 4 to 5 is i^ waist. From 5 to the sweep-line at 
6 is 2 inches. 



bADIES' TAlIaOH-AlAOE GARMENTS. 



211 



From 13 to 7 is 3 inches. Shape from 6 through 7 to S as represented. This establishes 8. 

H to 9 is 1-12 seat. R to 10, T to 11, and V to 12 are each 1 inch. 

The sideseam is vented below S, and the vent is closed with a fly and buttons. Finish 
as represented and make notches at 8, S and 10. 

The tops are finished with a regular waistband. The opening may be made at the sides, 
though frequently the breeches are made fly front. 

.-Ill scams have been allowed for on this draft. 




Diagram 98. 



212 THE "STANDAI^O" WORK ON CUTTING 



KNICKERBOCKERS 



T 



DIAGRAM 99. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as follows: 11 hip-rise, 23 
length to bottom of knee, 24 waist, 40 seat, 14 size below knee. 

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. 



Square the lines A x\ and A E. A to B is the hip-rise. A to C is the length to the 
bottom of knee. C to D is from 2 to 3 inches as desired for the fall. D to E is the same as 
C to D. Scjuare the cross-lines from B, C, D and E. 

All that part of the front which is on and above the line B H is drafted in the same man- 
ner as explained for the preceding diagram, except that the outside-seam is shaped from L 
through a point •a inch l^ackward of B. After having drafted the upper part, proceed as 
follows : 

Square downward from F to establish P and Z. 

Z to S and Z to T are each ^4 of the full size below the knee. 

Shape the side-seam from B to any desired degree of fullness at the knee, as through R 
toT. 

Shape the inseam from H to S, making the width from P to Q the same as P to R. 

The dart at the bottom is 1 inch wide, distributed equally on each side of Z, as from U 
to V. Shape the bottom from S to T, passing '1' inch below Z as represented. Cut out the 
pattern, making notches at 15, Q and R. 

TO DRAFT THE BACKPART. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper. 

Extend the cross-lines at the knee and bottom. 

Sweep from H towards 9, pivoting at Q. H to 9 is 1-12 seat. 

Sweep from a point ^ inch above L towards 6, pivoting at R, also from B towards 8, and 
from 13 towards 7. 

All the remainder of the backpart above the line 8 to 9 is drafted in the same manner as 
explained for the preceding diagram. To draft the part below, proceed as follows: 

Q to 10, R to 11 and T to 14 are each >4 inch. 

Shape the side-seam from 6 through 7 and 1 1 to 14. 

S to U, V to T, and 14 to 12 is 1^ inch more than the size at the bottom of knee. Shape 
the inseam from 9 through 10 to 12 as represented. 

The bottom is shaped straight across from 12 to 14. 

The side-seam is vented below the fall, and closed with a fly. The top is finished with 
a regular band cut 2 inches wide, and the bottom with a band 1 inch wide. Make notches 
at 8, 10 and 11. The opening is at the side. 

All seams have been allozved for on this draft. 



bAOIES' TAIl90R-/V\A0E GAR/VIENTS. 



213 




12 5 



V 
Diagram 99. 



214 THE "STANOAKO" WORK ON CUTTING 



ALLOWANCE FOR SEAHS AND INLAYS 



DIAGRAM 100. 

THE measures as taken on the form represent the widths and lengths of the finished gar- 
ment and Its parts. As a matter oi course, when a pattern has been drafted to the 
measures without aUowance for seams, the allowance must be made elsewhere, it 
may be made either by cutting each part of the pattern a seam's width outside of the drafting 
lines, or by first cutting the pattern on the drafting lines, then marking on the material close 
around the edge of the pattern, and cutting the material a seam's width outside of the chalk 
mark. Adopt whichever way you prefer. 

The question is often raised, " Why are the seams not allowed for on the draft the same as 
for men's garments?" The answer to this is " Because of the wide variation in the num- 
ber of seams in women's garments, different allowances would have to be made for each 
dift'erent style which the cutter is called upon to produce." 

A woman's coat may be made with one or two bust darts, a sidebody and one or two side 
forms, or it may have one underarm-seam only. For one extreme fourteen seams must be al- 
lowed for as against three for the other. 

Another decided advantage in favor of drafting without seam allowance is, that any 
amount can be added on the material as may be demanded by the fabric, whether closely or 
loosely woven. 

The same applies when cutting skirts. For trousers, knickerbockers, etc., where the num 
her of seams is imiform, the seam and ease allowances may be made on the draft. 

On the accompanying diagram, the material is represented as cut to form the body parts 
of a tight-fitting garment, with the usual allowances for seams and inlays. 

The pattern as drafted to the measures is defined by the light solid lines. 

The seam allowances are represented by the narrow parts lying outside of the light solid 
lines, as on the side-seam of the backpart, the back-seam of the sidebody, etc. These are from 
34 to }i inch in width, according to the weave of the material. 

Besides this allowance for seams, there should be added inlays as represented by the 
wider portions lying outside of the lines which define the finished size of each part, as at the 
front, side and shoulder seams of the forepart, and as represented on each of the remaining 
parts. 

The allowance for seams and inlays should be about as follows: 

Add ^ inch to the center-of-back seam, ^ inch at the top of the back-scye, and 1 inch at 
the top of the backpart. 

Add ^ inch at the top of the sidebody. 

Add % inch at the back edge of the underarmpiece. 

Add 1 inch at the side-seam of the forepart, the same amount at the front edge, top 
shoulder, scye, and neck-gorge. Add 1 inch at the bottom of each part. 

The darts should not be cut except as represented. 

On all long coats the width of the inlays should be increased below the waist line to lyi 
or 2 inches at the bottom of the front edge and side seam of the forepart, and at the back 
edges of the underarmpiece and sidebody. The inlays across the bottom of each part should be 
increased to 2 inches. 



bADIES' TAIbOR^^lADE GAF^ENTS. 



215 



Add 1 inch to the forearm seam of the undersleeve, also at llic bottom of each ])art. 
The front skirt facings for frock coats should be cut whole with tlie skirt, so that if re- 
quired they may be utilized as inlays. 



/ / / 
. ! , / 
/ 



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'■>'% 



Diagram 100. 



216 THE "STANDAHO" WORK ON CUTTING 



A page digested is better than a volume hurriedly read. 



bADIES' TAIbOK-MAOE GAR/VIENTS. 



217 




218 THE "STANDAHO" TA?ORK ON CUTTING 



T 



THREE=PIECE SHAPED COAT 

Empire Effect. Dolman Sleeves. 

DIAGRAM 101. 

HE distinctive feature of this coat is the new Dolman Sleeve. As represented by the 
iigure on the preceding page, it is developed in velvet, with vest effect of embroidery, 
and is finished with braid and ornamemts. 

TO DRAFT. 



Begin by making the Foundation Draft, as explained for Diagram A; obtain the length to 
D and shape the center-of-back as represented. 

All the points not directly explained are obtained as for Diagram A. 

E to 16 is 34 bust, or to style. Square downward from E and 16 to establish 1 and 2. 

From 1 to 17 and 2 to 3 are each 3/2 inch. Draw guide lines from E through 3, and 
from 16 through 17, and shape the backpart below E and 16 as represented. The center-back is 
shaped y^ inch backward of 3, and the side-back 3^ inch forward of 17. The fashionable 
waist is 2 inches below E. 

From Y to the center-of-back, the finished draft should measure 1 inch more than one - 
half of the full hip. By measuring the draft as so far drafted, it will be found to be from Y 
to the center-of-back for an average form about 5 inches less than the size required. 

Place somewhat more than one-half of this, say 3 inches, backward of 17 as at Yl, 
and draw a guide line from 8 through Yl. Then shape the side-back from 16 towards 8, 
and the back edge of the sidebody through Yl, hollowing about 1 inch on the waist line fron: 
the guide line. For this draft this brings the back edge of the sidebody through 16. 

The remaining 2 inches is placed between 33 and 34 in the following manner : 

Establish 33 at the width desired forward of Yl, say 3^ hip. 

From 33 to 34 is the 2 inches as above explained. 

Point 22 is half-way between 33 and 34. Draw a straight line from 22 to K, which is 
about 1^ inch backward of G. This gives 40 on the waist line. 

From 40 to 20 and 40 to 21 are each 3^ inch. Connect K and 20, K and 21, 20 and 33, 
21 and 34. 

From 20 to 38 and from 21 to 39 are each 2^ inches. Shape from 7 to 38 as represented. 
This gives Bl. 

Point 9 is half-way between 12 and 13. Connect 9 and L. 

F to 6 and 4 through R to 14 is the over-shoulder measure. 

Draw a straight line from N through 14 and make N to 11 the same as L to 7. Shape 
from 11 to 39 as represented. 

Shape the sidebody from 38 through 20 and 33 towards 35, and the forepart from 39 
through 21 and 34 towards 25 as represented. 

F to 5 and 13 to 10 are each % bust. Draw straight lines from 11 through 5, and from 7 
through 10. 



bADIES' TAIbOR^/VlAOE GAH^\ENTS. 



219 




Diagram 101. 



220 THE "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 



N to 23 and L to 24 are each the length desired for the sleeve. (This measure is taken 
from the side of the neck over the outer shoulder point.) 

Square downward from 23 and 24, also from 28. 

From 28 to P is ^^ bust or more. The sleeve can be made any width desired at the cuff. 
In this case it is the same as from 28 to P, ^ bust. 

Connect P and 26. Connect P and 27. 

Shape from 26 to 39, and from 38 to 27 as represented, and observe that the lengths from 
26 to 39 and from 38 to 27 are the same. 

A loose cuff is shown as from 24 to 26. The seam-edge of the cuff is hollowed j^ inch 
from a straight line (24 to 27), and made 3/2 inch wider from 36 and Z7 than at 24 and 27. 
The edge from 27 to Z7 is cut on a fold of the material. 

The line from 12 through Z and W is the center-of-front, and is obtained in the same 
manner as for a box- front. 

The vest front, which is shaded, is from 1 inch to I34 inch wide. Finish as represented. 

The two parts, one defined by 7, 38, 27, 24 and back to 7, and the other by 11, 23, 26, 39 
and back to 1 1 , may be joined in one piece at the upper edges, thus avoiding a seam from 1 1 
to 28 and 7 to 24 as shown at the upper left side of the diagram. 



KIMONO 



DIAGRAM 102. 

TAKE the pattern of a waist, jacket or coat, which has been drafted to the size and style 
required. In this case the pattern used is for a loose sack jacket which is drafted in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 1. For all coats of this type the blade 
size is increased 1 inch as from ii to 34 on Diagram 1. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart over another piece of paper, and mark around it as de- 
fined by points A, B, C, D, E and F. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart in closed position with the backpart at C, and the outer 
shoulder point K 2]/2. inches from D. Mark around it as defined by points C, K, L, M, N, 
J and back to C. 

Reshape the gorge from A, filling in 3/2 inch forward of C, and make A to S, following 
the heavy line, the same as from A to C and J. Reshape below S as represented. 

T is half-way between E and L. Draw a straight line from C through T. 

E to G and L to H are each 3 inches. Shape the sleeve portion below G and H towards 
O and P, or Q and R, according to the size desired. The lines H Q and G R are drawn 
parallel with the line T U. Make the lengths L to Q and E to R to style. 

The backpart above F seams to the forepart above M, and the sleeve portion below G 
seams to that below H. 

The line C T U extends from the side of the neck over the top of the shoulder to the 
middle of the outside of the sleeve portion. 



IsADIES' TAIbORc/yiAOE GAH^IENTS/ 



221 




Diagram 102. 



222 THE "STANDARD" WOHK ON CUTTING 



SHIRT WAIST 



T 



DIAGRAM 103. 

HE measures used for the accompanying diagram are 36 bust, 25 waist, 7 back-depth, 
15 side-waist length, 6>4 half-back width, 9^ blade, 11^ front-depth, 15^ over- 
shoulder, 634 back- waist, 13>^ neck, 21j/2 front-waist length, 5}i depth-of -gorge. 



TO DRAFT. 

Square the lines AD and AO. 

A to B is 1-24 bust, % inch. 

B to C is the back-depth, 7 inches, and to D is ^ inch more than the side-waist length, 
1534 inches in all. Square forward from C and D. 

D to F is 13^ inch, except for corpulent forms. (See Diagram 8.) 

Draw a straight line from B through F. This establishes G. 

G to H is the blade, 9}i inches. Square downward from H to establish X. 

H to J is 1 inch. Square upward from J. 

G to L is one-half of the full bust, 18 inches. 

L to M is 1 inch. 

K is half-way from H to M. Square upward from K. 

A to N is % inch more than % bust, 2^ inches in all. Connect N and L. 

Point 2 is half-way from H to J. 

From 2 to O is the front-depth, 11^ inches, less the width of the back from B to N, 23/2 
inches, making from 2 to Q 9^4 inches for this draft. Square forward from Q. 

Q to U is 3^2 inch less than % bust, 23^ inches. 

Draw a straight line from U through M. 

U to V is Ys bust, 234 inches. 

Point 1 is half-way from B to G. Connect 1 and Q. 

A to O and G to P are each the half-back width, 63/^ inches. Connect O and P. 

S is 3^ inch, more or less, according to style, forward of the line OP. 

Shape the scye from S through 2, dropping 3^4 inch below the bust-line, to the front sleeve 
notch, which is I34 inch above J. ♦ 

Connect G and O to establish 3. 

G to 3 and 2 past R to 4 is the over-shoulder, 15-)/8 inches, which for this draft falls on the 
line Q to 1. 

Q to T is the same as N to S. 

The foregoing method of establishing the neck point at V is correct for proportionate 
forms. In custom cutting, however, the measures for depth-of-gorge and size of neck 
should always be applied in the following manner : 

Place the width of the back, B to N, at O. and extend the tape-measure to the center-of- 
front as at W. Then holding the tape-measure at W release it from side of the neck at Q ; 
extend it upward toward U and, pivoting at W, make a short sweep at depth-of-gorge, 534 



feADIES* TAIl90K = A^A0E GARMENTS. 



223 



inches from the end of the tape-measure, as represented. Shape the gorge from Q to the 
sweep-Hne where it crosses the hue from U to Af. Then from B to N, and Q, following the 
run of the gorge to V is one-half of the full size of the neck, 6}i inches. The center-of-front 
is now drawn from V through M. 

Shape the front-shoulder from Q through 4, and finish the scye from T to the notch at 
front of scye as represented. 

X to Y is 3^ inch more than the back-waist, 6^ inches, and Y to F represents the back- 
waist surplus, which for a tight-fitting backpart is taken out at the underarm seam as be- 
tween 8 and 9. 

Point 5 may be established in any position between P and H. On the diagram P to 5 
is one-third the distance from P to H. 

X to 7 is 5^ inch more than H to 5. Draw a straight line from 5 through 7. 

From 7 to 8 and from 7 to 9 are each one-half of the quantity between F and Y. 

Shape from 5 through 8, springing out sharply towards 15. and from 5 through 
towards 13 as represented. 

From 9 to 13 is 3 to 3i/< inches. F to 11 is ^ inch more than 9 to 13. 

Y to Z is one-half of the full waist. Pivot at 8 and sweep downward from Z. 

B to N and Q to I is the front-waist length, 2\y2 inches. Pivot 1 inch forward of Q 
and sweep backward from I. 

I to 16 is 2 inches, more or less, as required for a pouch. 

Pivot at 1 inch forward of Q, and sweep l)ackward from 16. 




Diagram 103. 



224 THE "STANDAI^D" WORK ON CUTTING 



Shape the waist from 8 to I, or to 16 as required. 

From 8 to 15 and from I to 18, or 16 to 18, as the case may be, are each the same as 
9 to 13. 

Points 19 and 20 are each about ^ inch above the sweep-lines from I and 16, where 
they intersect with the sweep-line below Z. 

The quantity between I and 19, or 16 and 20, is the front-waist surplus. So that when 
gathered, from 8 to I will be the same as 8 to 19, and if pouched, 8 to 16 will be gathered to 
equal 8 to 20. 

The heavy line from V through M is for a plaited forepart when the plaits are stitched 
above the bust-line, and it is drawn 1 inch forward of L. For a plain waist, or when the 
plaits are stitched to the bottom, it is drawn 1^ inch forward of L as represented by the 
light solid line below V. 

For a high shoulder seam establish point 3 as explained for Diagram 24, and shape the 
back shoulder seam from N to 3 instead of from N to L. 



DRESS WAISTS 



DRESS-WAISTS and tight-fitting Hnings are drafted in the same manner as any tight- 
fitting garment in all respects excepting that, as they are worn next to the corset 
cover, they are made smaller than a jacket or coat. They are made with one or 
two bust darts, and the side-back may run to the arm-scye, or to the shoulder seam. ( See 
Diagram 50. ) The backpart from S to 3 is about ^ inch less than V12 bust, or to taste or 
style. The width of the backpart at the scye, blade and back-waist are each made ^ inch 
less than for a coat. 

From U to V is ^ inch less than one-half of the full waist as for a coat. 
(See Diagram 18.) F to I is ^ inch less than one-half of the full bust. I to 13 is i/. 
inch. N to O is >< inch less than ^ bust. The size on the hip line is i/^ of the full hip 
without the addition of V^ inch as for a coat. There are no changes in any of the lengths. 



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